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Need Wireless Thermostats hooked up to a zone valve controller

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Mail4tommo
Mail4tommo Member Posts: 76
edited July 21 in Thermostats and Controls

Hello,

I'm trying to find what set up to use for setting up wireless thermostats (2) to some sort of interface that would hook up to my 2 Taco Zone sentry's. There is no easy way of pulling wire or I would just do that.

I've been looking through the honeywell HZ322 and HZ432 Schematics and I'm a bit confused… The unit is a NTI VM110 and does not have a fan center…

image.png image.png

I called Honeywell the support was a bust…

I called Taco tech support for any recommendations and there was no clear answer.

Any suggestions would be extremely helpful, I have been down this rabbit hole on and off the last few days with no avail.

Thanks in advance

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,642

    Never used these controls and looking at them is giving me a migraine LOL.

    I think you could run a lot of wire for what they cost.

    The Honeywell instructions are for furnaces air conditioners and heat pumps etc not boiler or zone valves.

    You are correct about Honeywell tech support they won't talk to contractors or homeowners only their Honeywell distributors.

    I think the control you're looking at is $$$ and has all kinds of stuff you may not need.

    Take a look at this control. I don't know if they are any good but less $$$ and straightforward to hook up.

    Braeburn-8500-BRAEBURN-Submittal-Sheet.pdf

    Others will post with other opinions

    Mail4tommo
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 17,672

    the honeywell is labeled for force air, you need to translate from zone damper to zone valve.

    the fan center is t-t or x-x on your boiler, you only need w and r, g and y are for ac.

    you could also drive the heat call at the boiler off of the paralleled end switches instead of off of the wireless t-stat receiver/zone controller.

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 7,568

    Honeywell/Resideo is making a lot of changes with the RedLink line.

    A wireless thermostat was TH5320R1002 with the THM5320R1000 EIM. I don't know if its still offered. A 24 vac transformer should already be there to power the zone valves. I don't know what the va rating is on the interfaces, but I would check first.

  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
    Alan (California Radiant) Forbes Member Posts: 4,820
    edited 1:03AM

    Use one of these kits per zone:

    https://tinyurl.com/2awxhkjd

    Wire 24 volts (available on the control) to "C" and "R", "Rh" and "W" to T-T on the pump or zone valve control.

    I don't have any experience with the Braeburn thermostat which communicates using a 433 MHz radio frequency while Honeywell uses a 900 MHz signal. I've used many of the Honeywell ones and they have been very stable, especially in large homes with plaster walls.

    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 4,246
    edited 1:31AM

    Using the RedLINK Wireless FocusPro Programmable Thermostat Kit, YTH6320R1001 with the THM5320R EIM

    image.png image.png image.png image.png image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 12,582

    So you have this boiler NTI VM110 

    Can you tell me what wireless thermostat you already have? You show the RedLink wireless thermostat in your original post. Is that the thermostat you have? Can you take a picture of the thermostat and the sub-base that is attached to the wall? is there a model number on the thermostat?

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

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