Help finding contractor for boiler replacement in Midcoast Maine

Difficult.

But to start with, that boiler is roughly twice as big as your system needs, assuming that your EDR number is correct…

And is probably running at much too high a pressure — 8 OUNCES is the maximum it should ever run.

OK. Got that out of the way.

If you can locate a really good plumber — not HVAC service company, probably — who is willing to thread pipe and read directions, we can probably help you and them with figuring out what boiler would suit for the application and get it installed properly. Finding someone who will travel to your area (this is the coast? Down toward Rockland maybe?) is going to be really hard… but it isn't rocket science, just good craftsmanship.

If I were you, I'd pay Ryan from New England Steamworks to take a ride up from R.I., size and design it for you. You will then take bids. Mad Dog

Not just your area!

@Jamie Hall said: "But to start with, that boiler is roughly twice as big as your system needs, assuming that your EDR number is correct…"

Maybe not twice the size, but it’s likely somewhat oversized. I checked a couple of modern steam boilers, and a unit with about 250,000 BTU input is typically rated for around 646 square feet of steam (AHRI Net). The next size up is usually in the 280,000–300,000 BTU input range and is commonly rated for over 750 square feet of steam.

Whoever installed your 300,000 BTU Utica boiler may have seen that the smaller boiler didn’t quite meet the ~700 sq ft of installed EDR and decided to go up one size. That’s a common decision-making approach, and it’s likely how you ended up with the larger boiler.

However, it’s important to remember that the AHRI Net steam rating already includes a built-in pickup factor (typically 1.33) to account for piping losses and system inefficiencies. Because of that, you generally don’t need to “round up” as aggressively as people often think.

In most cases, it’s better to select the boiler whose AHRI Net rating most closely matches the installed EDR—even if it’s slightly under, assuming the piping is insulated and the system is reasonably tight. If you can, then insulate the near boiler piping and as much of the main piping as you can and end up with a lower operating cost.

For example, if you’re choosing between a boiler rated at 665 sq ft AHRI Net and one rated at 771 sq ft, and your installed EDR is around 700 sq ft, the 665 model is often the better choice. It will typically run longer, more efficient cycles and produce drier steam.

On the other hand, if your installed EDR is closer to 750 sq ft—or if you have significant piping losses (uninsulated mains, long runs, etc.)—then stepping up to the larger boiler would be more appropriate.

I hope you have good luck in finding a steam head in Maine. I was there one winter to pick up this Depot Hack hand made body for my 1923 Ford T. It was from a town called Cape Neddick.

Uninsulated steam pipes in the living space does not count as lost BTUs in the piping and pickup calculations. That "Lost Heat" from those pipes is actually heating the space you are intending to heat so it's not really lost at all. The fact that all your basement pipes are insulated is a reason to select the smaller boiler when the times comes. Just have the professional double check your EDR numbers to see how far off they are. If they are really far off, then you may need a second opinion. If within 10% then you did a good job with your calculation.

Exactly Ed. We do this often for long distance situations. Mad Dog