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How do I hook it up?

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Comments

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,329

    you are sure the new motor is 240v not120?

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • kadini
    kadini Member Posts: 44

    OK swapped both white wires to one side of the CAP and the brown is on the other. And it works and does seem slightly noisier which I think means spinning faster.

    So assuming we didn't hurt anything with the mistakes looks like it's good to go.

    Now, about that replacement sequencer…

  • kadini
    kadini Member Posts: 44

    It says 210-230v on the box. Picture on the last page. Aw heck here is the box picture.

    motor box label.jpg
  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 3,883

    The sequencer, I'll try to find some specifications, I suspect there is a delay for the second stage. How long have you run the furnace for ?

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • kadini
    kadini Member Posts: 44

    Before I swapped maybe a couple of hours. It was on but didn't run that whole time. Before the swap it easily quickly raised the house temp 2 degrees and then another 2 degrees. It's now been on ever since the swap but again not a lot for it to do right now.

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 3,883

    It looks like the 'sequencer' is just a time delay relay with with two sections (that are the same) and 2 switches per section. The second switch may close some random time after the first contact in each section closes. The switch pins 1 & 2 also power the blower in heat mode. Since both sections seem to have the same specifications. Looks like the unit you found is a reasonable replacement. Just make sure you really need it.

    image.png

    image.png

    image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • kadini
    kadini Member Posts: 44
    edited 5:44AM

    I ordered the sequencer. Even though my in family expert blew the wiring I trust him that 2 of the heating elements aren't getting power from the sequencer. I watched him take those measurements. And even with this new part the total cost of parts including motor, mount bracket, capacitor and sequencer is less than just the hello we're here service charge from the company that didn't do anything.

    Is it reasonable to infer the problem all along was the old motor failing? The virtually inaudible performance of the new motor versus the old plus the lack of end play in the shaft makes me think the old motor was definitely failing for a while. A long while…

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 3,883

    The sequencer is not expensive, I'd keep the old one as a reference and as a spare that at least partially worked.

    Sounds like the old motor was a bit tired. They do wear out. If I understood your original problem correctly, I don't think a failing blower motor would cause that issue.

    If it was just a failed blower, I would expect some heat would be noticeable and the heating elements would be cycling on and off with their High Temp Limits (Red arrow) until the whole unit heat soaked and the Manual reset High Temp Limit tripped (Black circle) and locked out the control signal calling for heat.

    Since (if I remember correctly) you simply had no heat related activity of any sort, if you activated the "Summer Fan" switch the blower would come on. This tells me there is 240 VAC power to the unit and the 24 VAC control voltage is also present. So my first guess at this point is there was no control voltage (24 VAC) getting to the sequencer relay. I don't think you had the opportunity to research that hypothesis.

    image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System