Is a small water heater an acceptable solution for extra heat on a heat pump system?

My boiler guy hates propress. My wallet hates propress!!

No, these are made by Radiant Design and Supply in Montana. Super nice folks and I highly recommend them. They loaned me the air hammer to beat that stuff in.

https://radiantdesignandsupply.com/

It was better than the uponor. They have two different widths of transfer plate.

They had some seconds with a little corrosion on them, not in the pipe groove and made me a deal on what they had of that.

So what you do as the HVAC guy ( me ) is move ducts around until the software is happy.

Then you talk to the plumbing designer ( also me ) and find routes for pipe.

Then you both talk to the guy laying out the wire runs ( ME AGAIN ) and he just has to suck it up and behave.

Sometimes we are up late at night arguing. It is a mess. I hear the doctor has some pills for this.

That joist was a Weyerhaeuser because I used their cantilever design on the 2nd floor. Here are some screen shots of that joist's report.

Note that it uses the overall length, including the beam on the left and the top plate of the wall and the rim board.

This can be a pain to get right. The Boise software is easier IMO.

This perforated beauty is Boise Cascade.

If you keep holes less than 1.5" and spaced at least 6" OC, they fall into the prescriptive engineering criteria.

The closer to center you place a big duct hole, the lower the shear forces, as shown above.

I had to move a duct off center and that is where the software helps.

Note the shear is at 88.5%

This was the easy part. Then I had some short foyer joists in front of the elevator shaft wall that had the same hole, but now at the end.

Then the left end moved from a rim board inside a 13.5" thick ICF wall to a plate on top of it. This made it worse.

Shear value is now 94.8% of allowed, even though the span is much shorter.

This is the point where using the <free> software really pays off. I adjusted that duct run through all the joists until I had the sweetest spot for it.

Not having any bumps in my basement is priceless, to me.

I built router templates.

you can see where the joists went from the rim hangar to the plate on the dropped wall there.

I cut the manifolds into my chase wall. When I designed the central core I had a dimensional bust in the elevator pit/shaft location that we corrected by adding a 2x6 non-bearing wall. doing so fixed the stairs. I did have a chase planned on the far side of the bearing wall so that was eliminated. It is all good as they say.

All headered up now. It gets the 24x30 metal door. Taco vents on order.

Same treatment at the east manifold location.

I put the basement floor manifolds on the wall where I was told. :)

PEX is supported with those bend helpers and ready to pour back. Note the Zurn 12" floor sink hiding under the original plywood. The water heater goes in the corner just beyond it.

I worked around the commercial plumbers for years and concluded that a floor sink is a handy thing to have.

I had subgraded and marked everything so the finishers did not have any pipes to work around. He did a nice job putting a slight bevel into the sink for me, his hand is on that plywood lid.

I spot fixtures like floor sinks with blobs of concrete under them ahead of time, so the finishers cannot stomp them out of level.

The equipment room wall stubs are all there waiting for the sledgehammer.

bring them up, do a pour back.

Adjacent bathroom group.

That way we could roll all over with the scaffold and not have any trippers etc.

Tis handy for sure. I modeled the versa lams with it. My wife has rheumatoid arthritis bad joints etc, and played with joist sizes and have a more "live" floor than some would like, but I know it will help her.

I swapped versalams for Glu-lams in the roof where I can leave them exposed and finished. It was a total wash for $$ per foot and I will take real wood every time. I have the wood fever.

I have the 21 3/8" house loops terminated, air tested, flushed and filled and under static water test now.

I need to get the 6 1/2"slab loops done and then we are ready to temp in that water heater.

you are right. The report had PPB in one area but further research has it as PPM and it is confirmed.

So do I want to flush those loops and get one of those high dollar filters?

thanks I added one to the cart I have perpetually running at supplyhouse. :)

It says 65 gallons based on 200 PPM, and I have a 5 micron filter in front of it and the hardness is a little over half that.

My 200' loops are about 2 gallons each. I will put the discharge hose in a bucket and flush a couple of gallons through each loop.

shame to cover it with insulation