Utica PEG 112 missing burner parts
I service oil burners but do not service gas appliances professionally. I do service and have installed my own equipment and I have serviced my daughters for 3 years.
My daughter has a Utica PEG112CDE running on natural gas. yesterday I performed the annual maintenance and noticed two items missing when I looked at the manual. (I did not notice this previously)
It looks to me like Item 4, Base Plate and Item 8 Burner Access Door are missing. The manual does not show a picture of the items installed, just the exploded view.
In the following picture the manifold cover is removed but no other parts.
its been this way for the three years she's been in the house. I clean the HX and burner tubes each year and test combustion, in addition to the steam side maintenance. I would think these missing parts would allow more excess air/O2 into the picture but combustions numbers are in spec. (correct me if I'm wrong)
Tstack | 418 |
|---|---|
O2 | 8.7 |
CO | 34 |
CO AF | 58 |
EFF | 78 |
ExAir | 63 |
CO2 | 6.9 |
AT | 41 |
Net Stack | 377 |
Lastly here is a shot of the flame
I'm finding the parts available at a reasonable price, so its a no brainer.
Comments
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You would need #8 for designed combustion . That would be easy to make .
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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This. And the other name for that part is "Rollout Shield" since it keeps the flame from coming out of the front of the boiler, where it can ignite the gas going into the burner tubes. So this is a safety issue as well.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
The piece right above the opening that has the three rivets on it has a little lip for it to hang on how far down does it need to hang? Im assuming, just above the tubes…
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ahh! this moves the urgency up to "do it now"!
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Look around the basement they might have stuffed it somewhere.
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I’m not surprised you are seeing ok numbers even without these parts. Atmospheric gas burners are not exactly in a tightly controlled environment. Thanks for sharing that info
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
The top plate should stop along the top of the burner tubes . That boiler also had a cover that hung on that top lip and covered the burner .. Like Ed mentioned , look around the cellar for the missing parts ..
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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That cover with the louvers is there, just removed for the pic
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I justI just want to follow up. I was able to get an roll out cover online, pretty inexpensive the base plate was not available so I had to manufacture one which wasn't that hard but my sheet metal work isn't the best it works but it ain't pretty.
On the base plate, lower picture if I remake it I'm going to bring it up a little closer to the tubes. The manual does not show the part installed just kind of a iffy drawing of it so I'm not sure how tight they made it.
Combustion analysis afterwards shows that the O2 and exair both went down a couple points and CO2 went up a couple points as I expected. Unfortunately no change in efficiency but I wasn't expecting much.
I want to thank all of youI want to thank all of you for replying and your comments. As always great support from this group
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Looks pretty to me
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
The CO reading is more important .Its a Old boiler you want to leave it safe… It may need an adjustment or cleaning..
The old standard was 100ppm , the new 50ppm .
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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I cleaned the tubes, burner area, pipe and HX right before my original post. gas pressure was adjusted to MFR specs right before the heating season started. The burners are not adjustable. Would replacing the jets (orifices) help with the CO?
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Looks like you are ok. I don't think changing the orifices will help
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