Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
If our community has helped you, please consider making a contribution to support this website. Thanks!

Utica PEG 112 missing burner parts

Options
Robert_H
Robert_H Member Posts: 320
edited February 14 in Gas Heating

I service oil burners but do not service gas appliances professionally. I do service and have installed my own equipment and I have serviced my daughters for 3 years.

My daughter has a Utica PEG112CDE running on natural gas. yesterday I performed the annual maintenance and noticed two items missing when I looked at the manual. (I did not notice this previously)

It looks to me like Item 4, Base Plate and Item 8 Burner Access Door are missing. The manual does not show a picture of the items installed, just the exploded view.

AlliBurner.GIF

In the following picture the manifold cover is removed but no other parts.

1000006829.jpg

its been this way for the three years she's been in the house. I clean the HX and burner tubes each year and test combustion, in addition to the steam side maintenance. I would think these missing parts would allow more excess air/O2 into the picture but combustions numbers are in spec. (correct me if I'm wrong)

Tstack

418

O2

8.7

CO

34

CO AF

58

EFF

78

ExAir

63

CO2

6.9

AT

41

Net Stack

377

Lastly here is a shot of the flame

1000006834.jpg

I'm finding the parts available at a reasonable price, so its a no brainer.

Comments

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,530

    You would need #8 for designed combustion . That would be easy to make .

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,525
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1888025#Comment_1888025

    This. And the other name for that part is "Rollout Shield" since it keeps the flame from coming out of the front of the boiler, where it can ignite the gas going into the burner tubes. So this is a safety issue as well.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    Robert_H
  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 320
    edited February 15
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1888025#Comment_1888025

    The piece right above the opening that has the three rivets on it has a little lip for it to hang on how far down does it need to hang? Im assuming, just above the tubes…

  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 320
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1888033#Comment_1888033

    ahh! this moves the urgency up to "do it now"!

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,228

    Look around the basement they might have stuffed it somewhere.

    Robert_H
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,850

    I’m not surprised you are seeing ok numbers even without these parts. Atmospheric gas burners are not exactly in a tightly controlled environment. Thanks for sharing that info

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    Robert_H
  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,530

    The top plate should stop along the top of the burner tubes . That boiler also had a cover that hung on that top lip and covered the burner .. Like Ed mentioned , look around the cellar for the missing parts ..

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 320
    edited February 17
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1888136#Comment_1888136
    1000006841.jpg

    That cover with the louvers is there, just removed for the pic

  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 320

    I justI just want to follow up. I was able to get an roll out cover online, pretty inexpensive the base plate was not available so I had to manufacture one which wasn't that hard but my sheet metal work isn't the best it works but it ain't pretty.

    1000007168.jpg 1000007169.jpg

    On the base plate, lower picture if I remake it I'm going to bring it up a little closer to the tubes. The manual does not show the part installed just kind of a iffy drawing of it so I'm not sure how tight they made it.

    Combustion analysis afterwards shows that the O2 and exair both went down a couple points and CO2 went up a couple points as I expected. Unfortunately no change in efficiency but I wasn't expecting much.

    I want to thank all of youI want to thank all of you for replying and your comments. As always great support from this group

    bburd
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,850

    Looks pretty to me

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    Robert_H
  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,530
    edited March 3

    The CO reading is more important .Its a Old boiler you want to leave it safe… It may need an adjustment or cleaning..

    The old standard was 100ppm , the new 50ppm .

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

    Robert_H
  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 320
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1890272#Comment_1890272

    I cleaned the tubes, burner area, pipe and HX right before my original post. gas pressure was adjusted to MFR specs right before the heating season started. The burners are not adjustable. Would replacing the jets (orifices) help with the CO?

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,228

    Looks like you are ok. I don't think changing the orifices will help

    Robert_H

Categories