Washing machine drain solution

the trap arm is the length from the trap to where the vent takes off. Codes vary, but 5-8’ is typical length.

In your case the is no vent before the WC connection, so when you flush the shower trap may siphon some. If so you end up with sewer gas smells.

The vent taken off a horizontal grain line should be above the centerline if the drain, also.

you could cut a 2” y into the shower trap arm, wet vent the washer into it. Not exactly legal but it solves two issues. It gets you a 2” washer drain and vents the shower drain.

1-1/2” washer drains were allowed in codes for many years. If the washer discharges 9 gpm or less, they work.

Many washers drain into laundry sinks in basements.

But you have options to correct that rube.

i believe the manufacturer of the washer says it has to drain in to a laundry tub or standpipe, it can not directly connect to the drain pipe.

Here is an option.

Cut a 2" combo into the shower trap arm. turn up into the wall, then about 8" above the floor a 2 X 1-1/2 san tee.

2" facing out for the washer trap, 1-1/2" up, tie into the 1-1/2' horizontal circuit ventcircuit vent

Technically the vertical should increase 1 size when you wet vent, but this would work fine for a washer drain.

Now you vent your shower properly and have a 2" washer drain. Without messing with the CI soil pipe.

It could be two stud spaces to the right, 1st pic, if that helps. Cut off the last right ell on the horizontal 1-1/2 vent couple the new pvc vent on there. Then remove piping below to the tee in the floor. A Fernco cap on the 1-1/2 where you cut it.

Looks like that was an old tub drain and vent?

No…do not pipe it like that. Too much chance of drain issues with the toilet and the high velocity discharge from the washing machine.

I believe the original post does not want to demo the new bathroom.

The washing machine. Where is it going to be placed if not in the newly renovated bathroom? Next is where I mentioned above on where to discharge the unit. That would be the cast iron stack pictured above.

around here there is still lots of galvanized supply around.

Rubber re-enforced hose for a sewage drain is not recommended. Only the hose supplied by the manufacturer as a drain to a properly installed house drain meant to receive the discharge of a washing machine. You seem to be looking for short cuts. There are none here. You need to do this properly.

Hi @Grallert , I was just going from the somewhat fuzzy picture of the piping early in this thread, but it looks just like galvanized steel transitioning to copper via a copper female adapter, as pictured above. I've seen people do this around here, and it always either leaks or plugs up with rust. If it were exposed and accessible, maybe it could be left alone for a bit. But being inside of a wall is a guarantee of problems that will be unpleasant to fix. 😈

Yours, Larry