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Washing machine drain solution

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  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,167

    you would support the cast iron stack be fore cutting it then leave the support after you're done

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,136

    the trap arm is the length from the trap to where the vent takes off. Codes vary, but 5-8’ is typical length.

    In your case the is no vent before the WC connection, so when you flush the shower trap may siphon some. If so you end up with sewer gas smells.

    The vent taken off a horizontal grain line should be above the centerline if the drain, also.

    IMG_1437.jpeg

    you could cut a 2” y into the shower trap arm, wet vent the washer into it. Not exactly legal but it solves two issues. It gets you a 2” washer drain and vents the shower drain.

    1-1/2” washer drains were allowed in codes for many years. If the washer discharges 9 gpm or less, they work.

    Many washers drain into laundry sinks in basements.

    But you have options to correct that rube.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • azward
    azward Member Posts: 20

    This is the existing washing machine drain in the basement. The drain hose is tucked into a 2" stand pipe.

    The existing PVC pipe inside the vanity is a standard 1.5". The steel pipe that it ties to looks also like 1.5". Due to the concerns on overflow, the planned washer drain inside the vanity cannot use a standpipe. Question is how to connect the corrugated drain hose to the planned T via a control valve as you mentioned?

    Years ago, I used to manually drain the washer into the sink or bathtub each time. What I'm looking for is probably a semi permanent solution.

    IMG20260207171428.jpg
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,167

    i believe the manufacturer of the washer says it has to drain in to a laundry tub or standpipe, it can not directly connect to the drain pipe.