Washing machine drain solution

There are a few different methods used in cutting cast iron pipe

A reciprocating saw with cast iron cutting blade, metal grinder or a chain snap cutter.

( I have tried to upload a few demonstration videos here but have had some trouble. )

all of the smaller pipe in the wall that is gray and mottled in color is galvanized steel. it rots out after 3/4 of a century or so.

i would remove the threaded pipe from the ci and screw a threaded pvc adapter in to to ci. it might unscrew but if it doesn't it is easy enough to cut the pipe close to the ci stack fitting then make 2 cuts almost to the threads inside the fitting, break out a little piece of the pipe between the cuts with a small chisel then unscrew the remaining piece of pipe. once you cut the piece it it will release the tension on the pipe and it will unscrew easily.

Everything is finished!? To your first post then. The answer is no, you cannot install it where you ask.

If you can access the wall from the other side of the finished bathroom, exposing the cast iron stack there, then you should be able to add a washing machine.

It seems that's the way someone did it.

Hi, Two thoughts. It would be working with physics more than code, but you could add a valve to the washer drain outlet to slow it down. It would work, but's a bit of a hack…😈 The other thing is at the shower, copper pipe is attached directly to steel pipe. This will fail as the copper forces the steel to rust. It's another reason to redo the water lines… possibly in PEX.

Yours, Larry

@EBEBRATT-Ed I worked as maintenance for a company that had a bunch of group homes and except for a couple that were newer, there was nary a 2" wash machine standpipe in any of them. We went thru many different brands of machines and I never had to deal with a standpipe drainage issues. I really don't understand the code requirement of 2" drain line as the pumps on most household machines are 3/4" to 1" and really not that high volume, even our commercial grade equipment never gave us problems on 1-1/2" standpipes. We also had some machines that would pump almost 8' up without any special pumps. Funny how things can work fine when parts of the systems are not up to code.

the notches in the joists especially for the steam pipe means the span of the floor between the beams is essentially being held up by a couple pieces of strapping. the fix is to figure out how to route the plumbing and box out the joists to get the plumbing through or make it so the plumbing can run through a hole drilled in the middle of the joist preserving the top and bottom.

So, all agree that the pictured drain is a code violation.? That PVC drain would have to enter the stack behind the toilet and not as shown , but it seems to have worked out for the OP. But then this is off point.

In order for a washing machine to have proper drainage it should be drained using a 2" drain with a 2" p-trap .

To do this properly, the cast iron would need to be exposed and have the washing machine drain plumbed there. This would accommodate the newer high pressure pumps that are in pretty much all of todays washing machines.

If the easy route were to be taken, drain water discharged from the washing machine would overflow into the room. Years ago the code changed from 11/2" to 2" . This code change was made because of the new high discharge / pressure pumps supplied in washing machines.

The way to get this job done would be to access the wall from the other side of the new finished bathroom and cut into the cast iron vertical stack there.