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Valve remains open when boiler/circulation pump cuts off

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Hello – first post to this site …

I have a Crown Aruba boiler set up for radiant heat in the floor (3 zones) and it’s been working fine. However, there’s been a “mystery” ever since I had this place regarding the Zone valve. When the T-stat is kicked up a degree or 2 for a particular zone, the boiler fires up as well as the circulation pump. And the Zone valve (of course) opens during that time (I know because I wired in LED lights for all 3 zones to indicate the open/closed status).

As the system tries to reach the set point temp., it will come on and off several times. Initially, when the system shuts down, the Zone valve stays open! It may not be for several cycles (4-5?) until the Zone valve finally closes.

It’s almost as if the system is saying: “I’m trying to stably reach the set point temp. you chose on the T-stat but until I’m sure I can maintain that, I’m leaving the Zone valve open. Once I’m really sure, I’ll close the valve.”

If this is what’s really happening, where is the ultimate control for opening/closing the valve coming from? 🤔

Any thoughts are appreciated …

Comments

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 3,724

    " As the system tries to reach the set point temp., it will come on and off several times. Initially, when the system shuts down, the Zone valve stays open! It may not be for several cycles (4-5?) until the Zone valve finally closes. "

    To me your use of the word system is too ambiguous, do you mean the boiler cycles on and off several times while the thermostat and the zone valve are still constantly calling for heat ?

    If so I suspect the boiler is actually cycling on the high temperature limit. Since the zone can't dissipate the full capacity of the boiler.

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
    rick in Alaska
  • MoreCowbell
    MoreCowbell Member Posts: 4

    Yes, by "system", I mean the entire unit (burner & pump).

    Other than that, the scenario is exactly as I described. As I said - the system cycles on/off several times without closing the valve - until a point is reached when, upon the last shutdown, the Zone valve closes.

    Still a little puzzled.

    I guess I was hoping to at least hear someone say: "Me, too - my system does the same thing."

    Unfortunately, most homeowners would have no easy way to know the state of the Zone valve. That's why I wired in the 3 LED lights because I always wanted to know which zone is getting circulation.

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 3,724

    OK to me the thermostat and zone valves are part of the 'system'. Since they are part of the heating 'system'. Other components of the 'system' are just a subset of the 'system'. Thanks for the clarification.

    I still suspect the boiler is actually cycling on the high temperature limit. Since the heating zone can't dissipate the full capacity of the boiler. So the boiler (only) temporarily shuts down on High Limit.

    As a test put one of your LED indicator devices across the High Limit switch in the Aquastat. So if the High Limit switch opens the LED turns on.

    I would not leave the LED indicator device across the High Limit switch in the Aquastat permanently unless you are 100% confident that a failure of the LED indicator device can't disable the High Limit switch functionality.

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 1,083

    Does the thermostat satisfy or does the temperature climb past the set point?

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

  • MoreCowbell
    MoreCowbell Member Posts: 4

    Grallert: The T-stat works fine and no, it never overshoots the set point.

    Thank you 109A5. I’m pretty smart but not an HVAC guy. I’m a little confused by your “the boiler is actually cycling on the high temperature limit”. I’m not sure what you mean by “High Limit”.

    You mention the “High Limit switch in the Aquastat”. My valve controller is a Honeywell (V80423E1012). As you may hve figured, for my LEDs, I tapped off of the line that gets 24V from the T-stat when it opens the valve. (I always know which valve is open, and when.)

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,117

    sounds like the boiler is somewhat miswired so when the high limit aquastat opens it turns off the burner and the circulator instead of just turning off the burner.

    bburd
  • pedmec
    pedmec Member Posts: 1,291

    The zone valve is always open on a call for heat until the thermostat is satisfied. The boiler will fire when the zone valve end switch makes. The boiler has a hi-limit that keeps the boiler temperature from getting to high. A normal boiler temperature will be 180 without reset and will shutdown the boiler if the boiler water temperature reaches 180. But that doesn't mean your thermostat is satisfied, so it just keep the boiler temperature from exceeding 180. Because you still haven't satisfied the thermostat your zone valve is still open and the circulator is still running to circulate the boiler water.

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 3,724

    Make and model of your boiler may help. Pictures also.

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 3,724

    Typically with a multi-zone system the thermostat(s) control the zone valve(s). The 'End Switch' (Auxiliary Switch) of all the zone valves are wires in parallel (Red wires). With any thermostat call for heat the zone valve opens and the zone valve's 'End Switch' closes, that activates the Aquastat and the Aquastat then activates the boiler's burner and also activates the circulator. The Aquastat is usually mounted to the boiler so it can monitor the boiler's water temperature.

    The Aquastat provides safety and control functionality.

    If the Aquastat's High Limit switch opens (boiler's water has reached the high limit temperature) it usually just shuts off the boiler's burner and the circulator continues to run so the hot water in the boiler can continue to heat the calling zone(s).

    If the call for heat is still active and the boiler's water temperature drops enough the High Limit switch will close to activate the burner again.

    One zone of a multi-zone system is usually just a fraction of the boiler's capacity so the boiler's burner may raise the boiler's water temperature faster than the calling zone can cool the water so the High Limit switch may trip.

    You system may be different. Pictures of your system may help to clear up some of the questions.

    image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • MoreCowbell
    MoreCowbell Member Posts: 4

    I appreciate all the more information & thoughts.

    • What MEC posted makes perfect sense; sounds right.

    • To 9A-5, I mentioned Crown Aruba; the model is DG 150.

    In my configuration, the Aquastats are not mounted on the boiler (though it makes sense that they might be). They are mounted directly on the 3 Cu pipes that release hot water back through the (back) wall and into respective zones.

    When you say:

    “If the Aquastat's High Limit switch opens (boiler's water has reached the high limit temperature) it usually just shuts off the boiler's burner and the circulator continues to run so the hot water in the boiler can continue to heat the calling zone(s).” that also makes sense. However. To my knowledge, I don’t believe the boiler and circ. pump have ever run independently; i.e., rightly or wrongly, I believe they always run concurrently.

    This comment:

    “One zone of a multi-zone system is usually just a fraction of the boiler's capacity so the boiler's burner may raise the boiler's water temperature faster than the calling zone can cool the water so the High Limit switch may trip.” is interesting may exactly pertain to my system. In fact, of the 3 zones I have, I usually only run 2 of them, and of these 2 – Zone 1 runs 90% of the time based on T-stat settings.

    One thing I will do tomorrow morning is this:

    I’ll kick up the T-stat a couple degrees and monitor to see whether, when the system shuts down (even with zone valve still open), has the set point been reached? If it hasn’t been reached, then according to this discussion, the Hight Limit may have been invoked. And this might explain the seemingly premature shut down and zone valve remaining open.

    Lots of good information here, which I appreciate …

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,117

    can you show us what's inside the front cover? there is usually a built in aquastat that is in a well somewhere on the front of the boiler packaged with the boiler.

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 3,724

    I'm thinking you don't know all the correct names of the components making up your heating system. The "Honeywell (V80423E1012)" are the zone valves. The Red arrow in the image below points to the Aquastat and there is usually only one.

    image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 3,724

    I suspect your system is like this image (it may not be) and the multiple thermostats and zone valves are inserted at the red arrow.

    image.png

    https://www.velocityboilerworks.com/documents/DG-Manual-Standing-Pilot.pdf

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 3,724

    I believe your system may be like or similar to this, showing only 2 of the 3 thermostats and zone valves for drawing simplicity.

    image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 11,800

    I am with @109A _5 on this one.

    Our new member @MoreCowbell has an idea of what is happening but may be assuming something that is not actually happening.

    The statements read this way to me:

    1. Call for heat and zone valve LED indicates a call for heat
    2. Zone valve opens (end switch signals boiler control)
    3. Boiler operates both the burner and the circulator pump
    4. Burner and pump both stop for some time but the LED still indicates the call for heat and the open zone valve
    5. The burner and pump come back on for some time and the LED still indicates the valve is open
    6. Burner and pump both stop for some time but the LED still indicates the call for heat and the open zone valve
    7. The burner and pump come back on for some time and the LED still indicates the valve is open.
    8. Steps 4, 5, 6, and 7 continue for several cycles.
    9. Call for heat is satisfied and the LED goes out indicating the valve closes.

    This is not how it should work. The circulator pump should not stop while there is still a call for heat and the valve is open. If this is actually happening, then the boiler control is not wired properly or is defective.

    I might suggest that the circulator is still operating and that is because those circulator pumps are very quiet and may appear as if they are not operating when they actually are operating.   The following is a proper operation for your Aruba Boiler.

    1. Call for heat and zone valve LED indicates a call for heat
    2. Zone valve opens (end switch signals boiler control)
    3. Boiler operates both the burner and the circulator pump
    4. Burner ONLY stop for some time but the LED still indicates the call for heat and the open zone valve
    5. The burner come back on for some time and the LED still indicates the valve is open
    6. Burner ONLY stop for some time but the LED still indicates the call for heat and the open zone valve
    7. The burner comes back on for some time and the LED still indicates the valve is open.
    8. Steps 4, 5, 6, and 7 continue for several cycles.
    9. Call for heat is satisfied and the LED goes out indicating the valve closes.

    If you can double check the the circulator is in fact OFF then you need to get something fixed. If the circulator is operating during the burner off cycle, that is normal operation and nothing needs to be fixed. It is operating correctly.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?