Need advice on how to dislodge a stubborn main vent (after trying oil/heat).

Philip_B · January 13

Hi All,

I've read some other threads on this topic, but I'm looking for advice for what to do if the two main suggestions (penetrating oil and heat) don't work.

Its a Hoffmann 4A and it isn't budging. I've tried oil, I've tried heat, and I've tried using a 18" Crescent, then an 18" Pipe Wrench. Is there anything else I could try?

mattmia2 · January 13

a pipe on handle of said wrench. or a big line wrench. if you break it off you will have to cut the remnants out but it probably isn't in there too tight. use a backup wrench on the pipe to lever against.

mattmia2 · January 13

could probably even use a big deep well socket and breaker bar

Jamie Hall · January 13

Let's think about what's the worst thing that could happen? Something will get broken — and since you are trying to remove the vent, I dare say that if it got destroyed it wouldn't be the end of the world. But we certainly don't want to damage the T, and it would be really nice if we could avoid damaging the iron bushing.

So…. the backup wrench goes on the bushing. It could be a big crescent. It would be better if it were and open end which fit exactly — and better yet if you had a closed end 12 point or 6 point which fit. Then brace it on something if you don't have a helper.

Now attack the vent. Penetrating oil. Heat — MAPP gas at least, and really go for it. More oil. More heat. Then again a wrench which really fit. It doesn't look as though you have enough overhead clearance for an impact wrench and a deep socket, but that would be ideal. Otherwise, in descending order, a 6 point closed end, 12 point closed end, flare wrench, open end. Crescent if you must. Pipe wrench as a last resort. Rig it for a breaker bar to get leverage — there are ways to lock wrenches together to do that!

And go for it. The worst that will happen is that the shank of the vent will break, probably just above the bushing, and you'll have to collapse the wreckage and pull it out….

A REALLY SERIOUS WARNING. IF YOU GET THAT FAR, PUSH THE WRENCHES AWAY FROM YOU! When that puppy lets go, it may be violent.

ethicalpaul · January 13

harbor freight 36” pipe wrench will never fail you in this task

Philip_B · January 13

@mattmia2 - I thought the same thing, but the metal grip-points on the vent are already severely deteriorated from previous people/owners (who knows when or why), and then my attempts with a pipe wrench have severely dug into one side. So to purchase a deep well and a breaker bar, it seems like it be easier just to cut the sucker.

@Jamie Hall - you sound like the older masons that used to teach me how to lay bricks and do wall layouts (logic, patience, potential outcomes, etc). Would it be easier just to cut the vent with a oscillating tool then collapse the threads with a cold chisel? I worry about the debris and messing the threads of the bushing.

I may have also learned the "push it away from you" rule the hard way already.

@ethicalpaul - I thought I had some pretty big artillery by using 18" wrenches. I do have some space limitations though, so the 36 would be hard to get in there between the walls and other pipe.

Larry Weingarten · January 13

Hi, I'd "worry" it. That means tighten… loosen… tighten… loosen. Keep doing this. Do use the mapp gas on the fitting under the vent. This approach has worked for me.

Yours, Larry

Philip_B · January 13

@Larry Weingarten - thanks for the advice. I've used that successfully with a lot of the radiator and other fittings in my house. Unfortunately I can't get this guy to budge either direction.

mattmia2 · January 13

a 6 point socket should have no problem with it

ethicalpaul · January 13

You can put a “cheater” 1-1/2” pipe on your 18” wrench also.

mattmia2 · January 14

or 1.5" emt, much lighter

ethicalpaul · January 14

and flexier!!

mattmia2 · January 14

maybe with a 10' piece. you're not going to bend the 3' or 4' piece you're using as a cheater

EBEBRATT-Ed · January 14

I used to carry a 2" and an 1 1/2" cheater pipe both made from emt.

When you up on a ladder with a 2' aluminum wrench and an emt cheater its a lot easier than 2" schedule 40 and an iron wrench. which is tough for one guy up in the air especially when you need a back up wrench.

I used to store the 1 1/2" cheater inside the 2" in my truck.

I used the same cheaters for years and used the hell out of them and never bent the 2" cheater. I did bend the 1 1/2" so I couldn't store it inside the 2" any more.

! 1/2" Emt works good on a 2' wrench. You have to hammer the EMT into an oval to make it fit on a 2' wrench but it lock on to the handle which is nice.

@Philip_B a couple of 18 in wrenches should get that off with cheaters if needed. The secret is to put the wrench handles close together maybe 6" apart at the end of the handles. That way you can put more leverage on the wrenches.

If it fails cut the vent or the bushing and cut it out.

mattmia2 · January 14

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1882170#Comment_1882170

I accidentally learned that because a scrap of emt was all i had handy. now that i think about it, it might be 2". not sure if it is 1.5" or 2". it was leftover from when i replaced my service.

109A_5 · January 14

A six point socket may be disappointing, it looks like an octagon to me.

mattmia2 · January 14

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1882186#Comment_1882186

i thought i counted earlier but it looks like 8 now

109A_5 · January 14

In my last experience, a Hoffman #16A you will need at least 2 foot of leverage and it will still be a fight. If a pipe wrench is used you will start to crush the octagon shaped flats or you are not pulling hard enough.

ethicalpaul · January 14

Thanks for the EMT info guys.

For the OP if the vent gets ridiculously crushed and you can't remove it, you can always try to remove the bushing under it.

@ethicalpaul - I thought I had some pretty big artillery by using 18" wrenches. I do have some space limitations though, so the 36 would be hard to get in there between the walls and other pipe.

I know exactly what you mean. My main goto wrench is an 18" but I always keep the cheater pipe handy because looks can be deceiving. My best tool is the knowledge that I can get it to move (even if I'm sometimes mistaken).

Larry Weingarten · January 14

Hi, To add some detail, I'd heat up the bushing to dark red… very hot! Let it cool. Put your backup wrench on the T under the bushing. now add wrench to vent, but do it so you can squeeze the wrench handles together. If needed, use a rubber handled hammer handle to use as a lever between the two wrenches. This greatly compounds your force. Hope this paints a picture.

Yours, Larry

ps. A plan B would be to remove the bushing after heating.

EBEBRATT-Ed · January 15

If I try to remove something with muscle and leverage and it won't let go you have to be smart enough to give up and cut the fitting out rather than wreck something else. But you can go pretty hard before resorting to that.

When you replace it think teflon tape and never seize.

Never Seize is very under rated as a pipe dope. When I was in the union we always used it on flange bolts and gaskets and I used to use it on gas trains where you have black pipe against aluminum gas valves and regulators.

And on anything that you think you might have to take part some day. My brother work in a hP steam plant for years. He said he put things together with never seize and 20 years later it could be taken apart with no issues.

Need advice on how to dislodge a stubborn main vent (after trying oil/heat).

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