Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
If our community has helped you, please consider making a contribution to support this website. Thanks!

Opening radiator steam traps - question for Gordon Schweizer or anyone else

Options
PEvans
PEvans Member Posts: 148

I have seen Gordon's excellent Youtube videos on rebuilding radiator steam traps. I have completed many of mine but now I'm getting to the ones with stubborn caps.

To get the cap off, in one video he recommends using a breaker bar with a backing wrench on the trap body, and in another he recommends using an impact driver.

The first is fine if you have two people, which is usually not the case.

Should I worry about breaking the trap body or the piping if I use an impact driver or a breaker bar without a backing wrench?

(FWIW my radiator traps are nearly all Hoffman 17C "old style")

Comments

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,248
    edited January 4

    @PEvans said: "Should I worry about breaking the trap body or the piping if I use an impact driver or a breaker bar without a backing wrench?"

    YES!!! Ask me how I know that……………….

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    mattmia2
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 15,739

    if you arrange the handles the right way one person can use a breaker bar and backup wrench

    Mad Dog_2Corktown
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 19,721

    Keep the wrenches together with maybe 4-6" between the handles all you have to do is crack it loose. You will get more leverage that way.

    Yes , you could break a pipe.

    mattmia2Mad Dog_2Corktown
  • PEvans
    PEvans Member Posts: 148

    Thanks, everyone.

    @EBEBRATT-Ed I'm worried about the 1-3/8 socket slipping off the nut on the cap. I feel like I need one hand to hold it down on the nut.

    No one recommending an impact driver?

    Corktown
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 15,739

    you can grind down the end of the socket to take the bevel off of it, it will give it more grip on shallow fasteners.

    Larry WeingartenAlan (California Radiant) Forbes
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 8,436

    Scissor bite with opposing wrenches. Wear some deerskin work gloves so you dont slip and need stitches. Mad Dog

    PC7060Corktown
  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 4,020

    Hi, I've used the opposing wrenches trick, but try putting the ends of the wrenches very near each other, then use a third tool as a lever or prybar between the wrenches. This gives you good mechanical advantage. Also use a socket, ground down as @mattmia2 suggests, but use a six point variety. You'll win 🥳

    Yours, Larry

    mattmia2Corktown
  • PEvans
    PEvans Member Posts: 148

    Great stuff here. Thanks everyone.

  • guzzinerd
    guzzinerd Member Posts: 391
    edited January 5

    I bought a cordless impact driver for rebuilding the 30 traps in my building. They hadn't been touched for 90 years. Made the job very quick and easy, zero mishaps.

    Bryant 245-8, 430k btu, 2-pipe steam in a 1930s 6-unit 1-story apt building in the NM mountains. 26 radiators 3800sqf

    mattmia2Alan (California Radiant) ForbesCorktown
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 15,739

    you can probably buy a corded one if you're just going to use it very occasionally for stuff like that(although if i had a cordless impact wrench i would use it a lot more than i use my pneumatic one)

    guzzinerd
  • WilliamGwiazdowski
    WilliamGwiazdowski Member Posts: 120

    Last year when I opened up the Webster traps here, I was able to get the correct size socket on the hex and use my 24-in 1/2-in drive breaker bar and they all popped free no problem, I don't know when they were last opened up though, however it's been at least 30 years.

    Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
  • Corktown
    Corktown Member Posts: 38

    I had a Hoffman 17C trap whose cover would not come off. With some heat and an adjustable wrench, I got the cap off, but in doing so, I bent the trap body or the cap slightly out of round. So I “second that emotion” of using a six point socket.

    You’ll get more force, spread more evenly around on the cap if you do so. You wouldn’t hand tighten a pipe into a fitting using your fingers (call that “12 point”), you’d wrap your whole hand around it and tighten it using your palm (“6-point”), wouldn’t you?

    In regard to impact wrenches, I talked a company into selling me an eight-point special order socket to get the squarehead plug out of my Weil-McLain boiler. I sweet-talked them into selling me just one, not 20!

    It took me about two minutes to get that socket off, in place since 1994, and I didn’t have to take the boiler jacket off to do so.

    No matter what you do, as the pros have advised previously, you need a wrench on the exit piping to counteract the torque that you’re putting on the trap cover head, imho ….

  • Corktown
    Corktown Member Posts: 38

    To clarify, I had 400-500-ish pounds of boiler acting as the “counter-wrench” when I used that impact socket! ….

  • PEvans
    PEvans Member Posts: 148

    I do have a 3/4 inch drive six-point socket of the correct size and a 3/4 drive breaker bar.

    @WilliamGwiazdowski I think you had it easy.

  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 4,182

    The telecom industry uses 4 point sockets. I bought one a few months back, ½ drive ¾ square IIRC, got it on eBay.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 19,721

    When you put the caps back on a little Never Seize won't hurt. Just use a little bit