Circulator noise when hot?
Comments
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I agree with @hot_rod
You have a ball valve at the boiler in the MU water. You could put the tee between the ball valve and the boiler. Put the EX tank and a pressure gauge there.
If you have (in addition to the valve we see) another valve upstream of the valve we see that only serves the boiler cut the tees in between the two valves.
Make sure you install the ex tank with the nipple pointed up and support the tank or make sure where you cut the tee in you can support the tee that feeds the tank. A drain where the tanks connects is noce to have
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Thank you @hot_rod and @EBEBRATT-Ed .
Is this correct? I added a tee with a pressure guage.
I have a steel beam right above the junction where the EX tank would hang. Seeing that this re-pipe woutl be copper and not have the tensile strength
, maybe a short steel or bronze nipple with a clevis hanger of some sort to support the EX. Or am I totally off here! Thank you!
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Yes that will be fine. You could put another hanger on the city water supply to the expansion tank tee. You don't really need it for support, but it might be easier to hang it. One hanger is plenty though
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here is super simple and low cost
Press in the FIP tee
Screw the iso ball valve into that tee
Screw a 1/2 x 4 black nipple and black ell into the iso valve
Screw tank into ell
Threaded rod or any suitable hanger rod around the black nipple
No need to mess with the fill valve location
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
Amazing @hot_rod !
When moving the EX, I would shut off the boiler. Shut off the current service valve for the EX. Close both valves from the MU water. Apply the changes you suggested.
I’m assuming the EX will need to be drained and pressure checked and reset.
How is system pressure then established while the repair is being made if both the EX and the any water are both essentially OFF?This is all so I understand the next steps. I will have a more qualified person with me.
Thank you all very much! Thai forum is truly helpful and generous.
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You are 2/3 of the way there.
Is there another valve on this return line, or multiple valves?
You need to completely isolate that section or pipe, to cut into the 1/2" copper line
or else drain the system down to that level.
If you know a plumber with a freeze cuff, you could freeze the 1/2" line between the two press couplings to cut in the new tee just below the 1/2" valve.
A thrill-seeking plumber may just drop the pressure to zero, cut a press ball valve into the copper line just above the ell where it ties into the black steel tee :)
There are some 1/2" tap a line valves, but quite $$ Although sometimes on ebay they go pretty cheap.\
If you take on this project, remove the tank and plug that yellow tank isolation valve.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
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