Annual Tuneup, now horrible burning smell
Hey guys, appreciate the advice here. Will try to keep it short and sweet.
We have a 1970s oil boiler which heats our hydronic baseboard heating pipes, as well as our domestic hot water (domestic coil). Old but has been reliable and works well.
Our go-to and trusted HVAC technician just retired this past year, so had to go on the search for a new guy. Sifted through all the big companies and found a new, small local guy.
Got the job done and left. About an hour later, when the boiler kicked on again, the entire downstairs filled with a horrific smell. I can't quite put my finger on it but the closest thing it reminds me to is the smell of burning/melting plastic. Almost like when you burn trash in a burn barrel that youre not supposed to. It does not smell like heating oil or oil/diesel exhaust. I've been on the roof before while the boiler is running and it smells nothing like the flue gases either.
Smell only happens when the boiler is running. It's a pungent smell so it lingers - I opened all the windows downstairs and let it air out, smell went away, only to return once she runs again.
I'm at a loss on what it is. Boiler guy said he can come back and check it out, but trying to figure out when as I have a busy work week. Even if it's exhaust gas leaking back into the room, it really doesn't smell like heating oil exhaust? I've tried to nose around it when it's running but can't find the source. Almost wondered if he left a plastic tool on top of the unit or something that is melting!
Any ideas here? What would be done in an annual tuneup that could cause such a drastic potent smell? Thanks guys
Comments
-
-
@Jamie Hall thanks for replying. Hoping it's something stupid and simple like that! We are trying to get him out tonight after work. Ill be sure to post back regardless.
Plan B is, if he can't find a fix, is to bite the bullet and call another company to come check…
0 -
Sounds like he mis adjusted the burner. Sounds like way too much air which can give you an awful smell. Did he do a combustion test and leave the paperwork with the test results?
0 -
How long was this tech working on it?
0 -
There have been a few observations that you need to consider. How long did it take for the technician to perform the service? Was there a combustion analysis completed, and if so what were the results of the test? And was there a plastic tool left on a hot surface?
To put this in perspective, in the 1970s when I was taught how to do oil heat maintenance we were expected to complete four “Cleanouts” per day. That is what we called the maintenance back then because there was always soot to be “Cleaned Out” along with the filter changes and nozzle replacement. This timing was basically 90 minutes for the actual on the job service and 30 minutes travel time between jobs for a total of the 8 hour day.
What was done in that 90 minutes included removing the vent pipe connector to the chimney and removing any build up debris that accumulated in the base of the chimney, then removing any cleanout covers to access the heat exchanger and brush the heat exchanger (HX) while operating a vacuum to remove any of the soot and scale that may be inside thar HX. Once that “dirty work was done, you would remove the nozzle assembly and drop it into a container of degreaser to soak while you put your vacuum cleaner back on the truck and pick up the proper strainer cover gasket and nozzle for that burner.
Now that you are back inside the boiler/furnace room you could perform a few things like cementing the flue pipe connector back to the chimney base and seal the cleanout doors with proper gaskets or furnace cement. Followed by replacing the oil filter cartridge refill and pump strainer cleaning or replacement. Then perform tests like the safety timing on the primary control, pump pressure and pump cut off with your high pressure gauge attached to the high pressure fuel line, and the ignition transformer spark strength. Then taking a brush to the combustion fan and wiping down the burner housing and furnace/boiler cover with some cleaning agent. With all that done you now take the nozzle assembly and wipe off the electrodes and replace the nozzle. Finally you can adjust the electrodes before placing the nozzle assembly back in the burner and put it all back together.
Now you are ready to start the burner and adjust the flame using your smoke spot tester to be sure you have a zero to #1 smoke spot on the test paper. With that adjustment locked in you then place the combustion analyzer (or CO2 bottle and stack thermometer) in the exhaust connector to see that you have a properly adjusted oil burner. Once that is done, you can put all your tools back on the truck and fill out the paperwork including the smoke spot test stapled to the receipt and get paid or have the charge account sign the work order and give them their receipt . Opps, you are at 93 minutes. Better get to the next job.
With all the improvements in oil heat technology today, a properly adjusted oil burner may never need a vacuum cleaning when properly adjusted. That will cut about 30 minutes off the time. So it takes about 60 minutes do all the other items on the list. So I guess the others might be saying the if the new technician took less than 45 minutes to do the tune up, them you may need to find a different oil burner service provider for the future. If the technician spent at least an hour, the you probably have a good mechanic and perhaps just a little absent minded who might be missing a screwdriver.
Hope this helps.
Mr. Ed
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
1 -
Appreciate everyone weighing in! He left me a hand written tag that says the following:
575 F stack temp
7% O2
10% CO2
60ppm CO
I believe all of these are within spec.
I think I might have found the culprit. He had noted that the connection between my flue and where it connects to the boiler top was old and starting to rot/rust out. I had already known that. He said when he put everything back together, he re-taped the flue connection with high temp foil tape to seal up this area, where there is a dime sized hole. I know it needs replaced soon, and we discussed replacing it sometime this year.
Anyway, I got my nose close to that tape and peeled some off. To me, it smelled just like the horrible smell we have been having here. So, I pulled the tape off and instead used a bit of furnace cement to seal up the connection as that is what had been on there before years ago. I then ran the boiler for nearly an hour by forcing a call for heat from the tstat and running the hot water from the kitchen sink.
Smell is still here, but I think it's not nearly as bad (not sure if I'm getting smell blind at this point though). Hoping it's just taking some time to burn off the adhesive remaining.
I remember years ago I hit a nasty puddle of something awful in my car. Splashed the entire undercarriage including my exhaust. Everytime my car warmed up, it smelled horrible, even after 4 car washes. Took weeks of daily driving to finally go away. I'm wondering if that same type of thing is happening here…
My guy insisted on coming over but I said that's OK for now and we'd keep in touch. I told him what I found and said I'd keep an eye (nose?) on it the next few days and let him know.
Will let you all know too… thanks guys!
0 -
Can you post pics? Has the burner been upgraded?
If the flue collector is being held together with tape and cement, it might be time for a new heating system.
0 -
Sounds like the boiler is short of draft. Has anyone looked in the chimney or checked it?
I agree the flue pipe should be fixed now but if only a small hole the draft should be pulling in not out.
@EdTheHeaterMan when I started they wanted me to do 4 a day. The stuff I worked on was 1920s and 30s equipment real soot makers and oil was cheap enough no one would buy a new burner until after the embargo.
Most days it was 3 for me
1
Categories
- All Categories
- 87.1K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.2K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 58 Biomass
- 427 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 114 Chimneys & Flues
- 2.1K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.7K Gas Heating
- 111 Geothermal
- 163 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.6K Oil Heating
- 72 Pipe Deterioration
- 1K Plumbing
- 6.4K Radiant Heating
- 393 Solar
- 15.4K Strictly Steam
- 3.4K Thermostats and Controls
- 55 Water Quality
- 48 Industry Classes
- 49 Job Opportunities
- 18 Recall Announcements