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Anyone know about disassembly of these full-port Webstone (Nibco) ball valves?

rossn
rossn Member Posts: 94
edited September 26 in THE MAIN WALL

I'm repairing a leaking press fitting that was introducing air into the hydronic system.

I cut it out using a Milwaukee close quarters cutter, and want to ream the pipe without fear of a copper shaving falling down into the vertical section and damaging the pump.

I was thinking to disassemble the top and bottom half of the ball, but wasn't sure if that's asking for trouble long-term. Alternatively, I can stuff some blue paper towel down there.

Anyone taken apart the two halves of the valve like the one shown on the left and is it a no-brainer to re-assemble or will I be more at risk for leaks (or be in for some other surprise)?

Tried to reach out to Nibco without any response for 2 days.

IMG_3514.JPG

Comments

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 11,087

    Why would one need to be disassembled? Are they not a one time use when set with a press tool?

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    Intplm.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 26,376

    That would surely be doing it the hard way. Stuff. Firmly. Your paper towel in there and you should be fine. Pull it out in a wad, though, not sort of by one corner…

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    rossn
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,670

    ball valves are assembled with Loctite, or a similar “glue” they are not so easy to disassemble without damaging them.

    Higher end valves are being laser welded more often now

    IMG_1092.jpeg
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    rossnMad Dog_2GGross
  • rossn
    rossn Member Posts: 94

    @EdTheHeaterMan - in my case, just curious if it's a safer approach to keep out reamer shavings… sometimes I get a single curly-q, but not always, esp. when it's up near that gas pipe and more difficult to do so (vertically). Once one end is cut out, it's only press fixed on one end.

    @Jamie Hall - that's what my gut was saying, but if easy to disassemble/reassemble, didn't want to feel silly doing it a different way. Suffing will be the way I go. I figure someone probably makes some silicone insert that looks like an inverted plunger. If not, there's a new tool. But blue paper towel is readily available :)

    @hot_rod - read you loud and clear… not the way to go. Thanks for sharing that context.

    Saw the wrench flats, and had to ask. Thanks everyone!

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,561

    Either ream it and don't worry or don't ream it at all. Right now you have no problem take the valve apart and you will have a problem

    mattmia2Intplm.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 14,173

    i think the ball is the laser welded part

  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 2,721

    @rossn , Dont bother taking it apart. Cut it with the proper tubing cutter and do not ream it.

    Mad Dog_2STEAM DOCTOR
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,670

    what would be welded on the ball? It’s a hollow ball with a slot for the stem to engage

    It’s the assembly seams that are welded, according to Nibco

    IMG_1101.jpeg
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    mattmia2
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 14,173

    delta stainless balls are 2 hemispheres welded together. probably because it is easier to make stainless sheet than to cast it so they stamp 2 hemispheres from a sheet and weld them together and machine and polish it in to a ball.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,670

    much different than a basic plumbing heating ball valve

    The delta ball opens and modulates two flows h&c to the outlet port

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream