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Best Material to Use for Drainpipes in Residential Homes.

umichaelx
umichaelx Member Posts: 13

I am the owner of several 2-family properties in NYC. I would like to replace the entire drainpipes under the kitchen, bathroom sinks, and the bathtubs. I currently have cast iron, and I noticed issues with the drainpipes, which have aged between 60 and 65 years. If money is no object, can anyone please advise me what the #1, BEST MATERIAL, is for drainpipes? Your help will be greatly appreciated.

  • Michael
«1

Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,732

    it depends.

    noise, code, water quality.

    umichaelx
  • psb75
    psb75 Member Posts: 1,043

    Is PVC not allowed in NYC? So…cast iron. may be your only option.

    umichaelx
  • psb75
    psb75 Member Posts: 1,043

    …or copper.

    umichaelx
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 8,152
    edited May 10

    PVC is allowed in NYC 5 stories and less. The question is, are you doing a full gut renovation of the building or just piecemeal? If you're replacing the soil stacks, Charlotte No Hub Cast Iron with Husky Couplings would be the Gold Standard today…very durable and muffles cascading water in the pipe.

    If you're just looking to replace waste lines to bathtub, showers, sinks, money Is not an issue, I would use Brass & Copper DWV pattern fittings and L Thickness Copper. This system would be soft soldered.

    This is what we use in NYC for commercial 3 compartment sinks in kitchens, bar sinks, et cetera. DWV copper waste lines would be the Gold Standard here.

    My next choice would be Charlotte No Hub with Husky Couplings.

    PVC, last choice. In any case, irrespective of which of these materials you use, a really good installation job is the most important factor...with lots of support, long turn fittings and clean outs at all the right places for easy maintenance.

    Any really good plumber who takes pride in their work, will make a very good, leak free system with any of these materials.

    Mad Dog

    umichaelxHVACNUTILikeEmOlder
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 8,152

    By the way, love the avatar! Mad Dog

    EdTheHeaterMan
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 8,152

    Good case study:

    The massive Levittown suburban housing development of the post WW II building boom, used DWV copper systems, even for the soil stacks. So, there's a good 75 year and running track record.

    Unfortunately, general contractors & such cut out perfectly good DWV piping & fittings when the renovate the kitchens & bathrooms. Mad Dog

    umichaelx
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 8,152

    Good news...Supplyhouse.com carries Nibco, Mueller & Elkhart DWV copper & brass fittings. I believe all are still made in USA too...Mad Dog

    umichaelx
  • leonz
    leonz Member Posts: 1,535

    Hello and good morning Michael,

    I am speaking to you as a home owner; when as the last time you had the P traps cleaned or the main drains to the sanitary sewer cleaned/snaked.

    Do you do your own maintenance?

    What are the issues you are seeing with the drain pipes under the kitchen, bathroom and tub sinks? Slow drainage speed? leaking joints?

    If the problem is drainage speed The P traps under the kitchen sinks, bathroom sinks and tubs are probably clogged and are in dire need of cleaning.

    Do you know how to clean a P trap?

    When was the last time the 4-6 inch drains to the sanitary sewer in these homes were cleaned??

    Do the simple things first before you do a massive tear out for new drain piping.

    Properly installed cast iron drain pipes like mine are over 100 years old and still drain properly to either the sanitary sewer or septic tank.

    The problem typically is grease buildup in the P traps or the soil pipe to the septic tank or sanitary sewer.

    You should clean the P traps under the sinks and tubs and then see if the problem clears itself. If the problem is not fixed with cleaning the P traps you can always invest in a canvas bag Drain Blaster that fits inside the pipe under sinks or tub drain and use the house water pressure from a garden hose to blast the clog free and flush the pipe using only hot water.

    You should also inform your tenants that they need to run the hot water only in the tub drains after a shower or bath to assure the P trap is filled with water and the soap will continue to be flushed through the piping as the soap scum will continue to build up over time. Another good inexpensive tool to have is the Drain Weasel which is a long thick plastic grabber that slides into the bathtub drain and into the P trap to pull out hair clogs.

    Do the simple things like cleaning the P traps and flushing the sink and tub drains with a drain blaster if they are still slow and have the 4 or 6 inch cast iron pipes cleaned with a pipe snake or water jet pipe cleaner before you spend a massive amount of money on replacing the cast iron pipe.

    umichaelx
  • umichaelx
    umichaelx Member Posts: 13

    I appreciate everyone's input here on this subject matter. Thank you for your time.

    I forgot to send this picture earlier,

    Drainpipe for the Kitchens_May 2025.png

    which shows the current condition of the drainpipe for the kitchens. Thank you.

    Mad Dog_2
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 2,166
    17468958773307489377892677181895.png

    The cast iron is fine. Lose the galvanized going into it and replace that with copper.

    Galvanized drains are the worst IMO.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    Mad Dog_2umichaelx
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,732

    that is leaking because the steel pipe rotted out. you could probably just replace the steel to the cast iron with pvc or copper.

    the steel pipe gets rough on the inside as it rusts and clogs easily. i rarely see clogs in the trap, it is usually further in the laterals from the wall/floor to the stack or under the floor or in popup or tub drain assemblies.

    Mad Dog_2umichaelx
  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 2,636

    This subject will always be debatable. Opinions vary greatly.

    XXH Cast iron? XH cast iron? Sch. #40 cast iron.

    (XH) is an acronym for extra heavy, etc. PVC, ABS. Not to mention DWV copper are choices. Years ago, when I first started out, ABS was the plastic pipe of choice for residential use in my area. Cast iron and DWV copper were mostly used commercially. Now, PVC Sch. #40 is the drainage pipe of choice for residential and commercial work.

    So the "best" material to use? At this point, it just might be PVC. It's available and easier to install than others. And many building codes accept it. It's always best to check your local building codes

    umichaelx
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 2,166
    edited May 11

    Service weight cast lasts at least a century based on what I've replaced.

    XH? Who knows. Note the fittings for XH are limited and it's hard to get a good pour going from XH to Service Weight if you need something like a starter or harp which AFAIK is only available in SW.

    PVC isn't the best, just the easiest and cheapest to install.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    umichaelxMad Dog_2Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,073

    PVC would be my choice maybe a cast no hub stack if there is an upstairs bath group. The cast deadens the sound of falling water nicely.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    umichaelx
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,644

    PVC’s not the best?

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    umichaelxdelcrossv
  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,836

    Hi, I'm out West, so I like the cast iron stack (to help with keeping it quiet) and ABS for the rest. 🤠

    Yours, Larry

    umichaelxMad Dog_2Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,778

    Funny here in Western, Ma ABS has always been big when the plastics started in the early 70s. Not much PVC then but now you see more PVC in HD & Lowes.

    MA. doesn't allow PVC or ABS in commercial buildings.

    Mad Dog_2
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 8,152

    I agree with the Mass Code, Ed. PVC takes a beating in commercial buildings, especially in restaurants. Mad Dog

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,644
    edited May 11

    "Best Material to Use for Drainpipes in Residential Homes."

    Hi, I'm out West, so I like the cast iron stack (to help with keeping it quiet) and ABS for the rest. 🤠

    Honest question, does the out west part make one material better?

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,988

    I suspect it merely makes it rhyme.

    Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,710

    I'll only use PVC in my house. If noise is a concern some cheap fiberglass insulation does a better job than cast iron.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • psb75
    psb75 Member Posts: 1,043

    Rodents love, love, LOVE fiberglass. Rockwool may be better.

    Mad Dog_2PC7060
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,710

    Yeah, I suppose we better knock down 99% of the buildings in the US and Canada......

    If rodents are getting into the building the choice of insulation isn't the problem.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    Intplm.Canucker
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,464

    I'm not a plumber, I'm an expert on residential and light commercial oil heat and hydronics, So my opinion may not hold as much weight as the others here…. But I would thing the best pipe is the one that doesn't leak! Just sayin'

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    Intplm.PC7060
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,073

    pvc drainage fittings were not available in some western states for whatever reason. Lately I see both Pvc and Abs fittings at suppliers.
    One step glue is nice for ABS, but the pipe really warps in the sun, on the truck in a sub-rough outside.

    Both cellular core PVC and Abs are more fragile. I always buy solid core pvc pipe

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    ethicalpaulMad Dog_2Larry WeingartenPC7060
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,710

    I can't believe you didn't use the phrase "doesn't hold water" instead of weight.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    EdTheHeaterManCanucker
  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,836

    Hi @ethicalpaul , Honest questions are good. As HR said, PVC drain pipe and fittings are essentially not available where I am, so the realistic choices for me are cast iron and ABS. I do wish we had never gone to foam core pipe. The only benefit is in up front cost. Orangeburg probably holds up better 🙀

    Yours, Larry

    ethicalpaulMad Dog_2Intplm.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,710

    I buy most of my fittings from Supply house.com.

    I've seen foam core pipe for sale but I've avoided buying it.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,732

    the parts of my orangeburg that didn't have roots in it is 75 years old

    Mad Dog_2
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,073

    I see Pace Supply carries solid ABS.

    A bummer for suppliers that carry 4 inventories of PVC and ABS pipe. Plus CPVC?

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    Larry WeingartenIntplm.
  • dronic123
    dronic123 Member Posts: 64

    In doing a renovation, I made the choice to change all the pipe in ABS except for the stack because I was told "ABS is really noisy".—hmm—just recently the stack split vertically—-big mess. For me I now like the idea "the best pipe is the one that doesn't leak" as @EdTheHeaterMan. I wish I had done the stack in ABS.

    ey

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,732

    what material split?

  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 2,636

    All of them do. Cast iron has had the most time in use to prove that.

    @umichaelx All have their ups and downs. PVC DWV pipe and fittings are widely available in many areas. Availability is important. Not to mention the ease of installation. All that are approved by your local code are acceptable.

  • PC7060
    PC7060 Member Posts: 1,630

    "I always buy solid core pvc pipe" - agree quieter too! Only available at pro supply houses around here.

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,710

    I've never seen foam core in person, only listed on home depot's website.

    What is it, and how can you cut it? I keep picturing pvc pipe that's corrugated. But if that's the case, when you cut it you have a raw end. That doesn't matter I guess?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,464
    edited May 12

    @Intplm. said "They all have their ups and downs."

    Unless you put them on a Horizontal. Then the water flows from one side to the other! (depenting on the direction of the pitch)

    I thought you all learned that on the first day, Just after when payday is, and to not bite your fingernails.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    mattmia2
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 25,073

    if Pvc or Abs touches the sheetrock on a vertical stack it can be very noisy

    3” pipe fits in a 2x4 wall but the fittings can end up touching the rock, or if the pipe is warped as cell core often does

    Putting in a 2x6 “plumbing wall” helps quiet down the sound of falling water, or a section of CI

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,732

    if pvc touches anything it can be very noisy. lots of popping and clicking noises as it expands and contracts and slips by stuff

    umichaelx
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 7,644

    7 mm change in length for every 10 meters for every 10°C change in temperature

    I'll risk it

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,732

    it is like any other piping material, you have to give it room to move and support it in such a way that it can move without slipping and sticking