gauge glass blowdown valve
I have been watching several videos from @Gordo and I'd like to add a blowdown valve to the gauge glass on my V7. What parts do I need? Looks like I do have enough clearance to do so fairly easily.
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1/8 m-f ball valve and a 1/8 brass plug.
Happy Easter!
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
Thank you and happy Easter !
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You could use the fitting on the bottom of the gauge glass assembly. To use, close the upper valve and use a box wrench to open that bottom fitting; ccw to open and cw to close. Open it when the boiler has some pressure to force the junk out. I believe it takes a 7/16" wrench. Doing what @delcrossv makes a better looking job my way is cheaper and can be done now if you want.
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That looks great @delcrossv ! Definitely going to be doing that here soon. My gauge glass appears to have some schmutz at the bottom of it. @retiredguy I can simply just blow it down when the boiler is steaming
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but don’t use 1/8”, use 1/4” by removing the whole existing valve. It will provide a better flush
NJ Steam Homeowner.
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
I haven't noticed any issue using 1/8.
YMMV.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
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Thanks for all of the advice guys. I'll put it on my summer to-do list along with a new combustion chamber
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Back in my steam boiler days the below video was my guide, thanks to Gordo. Used a bar stock brass street 45 1/4" NPT male thread, and the elusive all metal Dahl 521-61-04 valve. Finished it with 1/2 of an old washing machine hose.
Around 2:20 in the video Gordo mentions a leaking sight glass on a vacuum system. I actually had that exact problem after 1st time changing the sight glass. At end of cycle my system would drop into vacuum for a few minutes, up to 10"
mmHg at times and there was air leaking in, bubbling up from the bottom sight glass fitting. Snugged it up just a bit more. Great test for the rookie sight glass installer I was at the time.0 -
The ones we're using now are made by Red/White.
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I use the cheap ones from Harbor Freight.
Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-240 -
I would also address the corrosion on the hot water heater bolts!
Remove the bolts 1 at a time and never seize them.
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I'm actually going to be abandoning the DHW coil and installing a 50 gallon hybrid electric heat pump water tank
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I stopped at FW Webb on the way home from work and picked up a 1-1/2" long 1/4 npt nipple, brass 45, and a full port ball valve, I also got from the fittings bin at work in the shop a 1/4 NPT 3/8" barb and a short piece of 5/16 fuel hose. Quick easy installation.
Thanks for the idea @Gordo through your videos!
Works great.
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Abandoning the tankless won't stop the gasket from leaking. Leave one end of the coil open when you abandon it so it can't become pressurized.
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Very well aware of that. I'm just going to cut all of the copper right off of the coil and leave it open
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Leave some sticking out in case it does start to leak from the coil 😅
Then at that point you can sweat caps onto it and have no fear of it becoming pressurized since it will have a hole in it at that point
NJ Steam Homeowner.
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
That's a good idea
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If I ever do have to remove them it looks like I can get to the back side of them fairly simply by pulling some of the jacketing off of the boiler. Then just put some good heat to them and get them out with the impact. Working as a boat mechanic I am no stranger to corroded and stuck bolts.
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