"Water heater Autobooster."
Does this thing work? Eemax Brand electric booster. The claim is it will significantly add to a water heaters out put when added to a water heater. I have never used one. I have some customers that would like this because they have very little room for a larger water heater and this thing takes up very little space.
Comments
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btu/hr =500 gpm * delta t Fahrenheit degrees
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Oddly enough, it probably will boost the temperature — not the flow. What I would ask, though, is do you have the watts to power it? You're going to need an independent 30 amp 240 volt circuit for it…
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
some of them seem to just be a piece of open nichrome in a pipe as well so you might look in to that. you need to know how much energy you need to add for the temp change and flow. if the tank and its energy source isn't doing it, you will need a large circuit to be in the same order of magnitude as a fuel burning appliance
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I would explore adding mixing valves to your water heaters or indirect tanks. Take a look at this webinar around the 18 min mark on how they can help give your customers more hot water
Dave Holdorf
Technical Training Manager - East
Taco, Inc
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I’d get a higher output tank if possible
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I looked into it. It does not require a dedicated circuit. It seems to run off of the current 30amp.
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It takes 30 amps to run. If there's something else on that circuit running at the same time… boink.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
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This is a submittal sheet I found. I never used this "booster" . Was hoping some one might have had some experience with it. Share there thoughts.
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It draws over 7kw @240 volts the power has to come from somewhere. Your typical water heater 30 amp circuit will only supply 7200 watts max. This unit takes 7200 by itself and then you have the WH elements which are usually 4500 watts.
For this to work as advertised this thing must contain some automatic load shedding or control.
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A 30 amp circuit is dedicated!
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technically you could have a 30 a 120v general purpose circuit if you meet a bunch of conditions, but that isn't what they mean here…
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go for it!
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What do you make of the submittal posted above?
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220, 221. Whatever it takes.
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looks like a great way to get constantly varying hot water temps until the tank runs out and you get tepid water
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It will require a seperate 30 amp circuit!
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it looks like it switches off the water heater and heats the outlet which doesn't seem productive
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The submittal shows it feeding the existing storage tank out of the booster heater. It's pretty obvious that it'll turn off the storage tank whenever it turns on.
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I think the idea of it is during draws, part of the heat will come straight from the booster and part from the tank. When not in use, the tank is switched back on and allowed to recover.
This makes a sense, effectively turning your typical 4.4kW tank into a 7.2kW unit.I do question running a 7.2KW unit on a 30A circuit as typically you are only allowed to load to 80%, so the unit should be put on a 40A circuit.
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I agree with @Kaos
I think during heavy demand it shuts of the 4.5 kw water heater and brings on the booster at 7.2 KW.
But it does not say that or even allude to it so it is clear as mud.
But your not running 7.2 kw plus 4.5kw on a 30 that's for sure.
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not supposed to run 7.2 kw either.
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Thank you mister mom. 🙂
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Seems it will need a dedicated circuit when added to a gas water heater. Not something I would do.
Im wondering, possibly using it with an electric water heater(s) that are installed in very tight spots, as shown in the drawing above. Has it worked? What did their customer(s) think.
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I have no doubt that it will work — as a booster. On its own power supply. It will NOT work as a stand alone unit (and, to its credit, it doesn't say it will), or if it is on the same circuit as an electric water heater and has to switch off the electric so that it can run. At 2 gpm it will be capable of a temperature rise of about 20 degrees F, and no more.
Provide a nice independent 30 amp or 40 amp 240 volt circuit for it and it will give you that 20 degree F boost. An ingenious soul could put it on the outlet of an inadequate electric water heater and add a thermostatic mixing valve and get a few minutes more hot water from the system… but that's it.
Physics is such a nuisance sometimes.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
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It would have to be #8 copper and on a 40 a breaker unless the service was 208v then I think the loss of output would let you do #10 and 30a.
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