Cast iron radiator output tables are wrong?
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That is all exactly right. As I've been learning from the pros here like yourself, Ed, Jamie, Hot Rod, etc, I've made numerous posts over the last two years or so with observations that boil down to almost exactly what you said. And I've modeled the building heat loss a number of ways, so I'm highly confident in my numbers, which I could summarize here as:
165,000 BTU/hr input (1.18 gph @ 140,000 BTU/gal)
82% dry gas efficiency, less 7% latent heat loss, so actual combustion efficiency = 75%
Then net output = .75 x 165,000 BTU = 124,000 BTU/hr net output
Envelope heat loss at zero degrees outside air temp requires 50,000 BTU/hr input. So assuming 75% efficiency, actual envelope heat loss = .75 x 50,000 = 37,500 BTU/hr at zero degrees outside air temp.
Radiator area = 482 sq. ft.
Estimated pipe area = 100 sq ft.
Estimated water volume = 150 gallons, including boiler, piping, and rads.
(This is all for one of two identical heating systems, each heating identical halves of a 100-year-old building near Boston).
Your breakdown of the numbers is a close parallel to a post I made a year or two ago showing where the BTU's from a typical 45-minute boiler run go. Some into radiation, but most is stored in water and cast iron for slow release over hours.
https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/193741/understanding-heat-flows-in-high-mass-heating-systems-in-old-houses/p1
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If the heating load is 37,500 BTU/hr at 0F, at a more typical Boston winter temperature of, say, 30F it might be 20,000 BTU/hr.
The boiler runs for 80 minutes at 124,000 BTU/hr and produces 164,000 BTU which mostly get stored in the water and the cast iron. That's enough to keep the building warm for eight hours.
With 60K BTU worth of radiators at 160F, the water would only have to be 100F to produce 20K. So by the time all of that heat has dissipated the radiators would be at or near room temperature.
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I kind of wonder if your couple hours is really steady state or if the water is still slowly getting warmer.
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Well if the input =radiation =building heat loss, it really could just keep running and running. (until the burners cut out on their high limit per @EdTheHeaterMan )
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
Rads tend to be installed under windows, this could effect output. Air the is usually colder so you have a higher delta T. Due to air leaks, there is more airflow over the rad in that location.
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@DCContrarian said:
If the heating load is 37,500 BTU/hr at 0F, at a more typical Boston winter temperature of, say, 30F it might be 20,000 BTU/hr.
That is correct. So on a day like that, the boiler net output of 124,000 BTU/hr is about 6x the load, so the building only needs 1/6 th of the boiler output, on average.
So the boiler will run for, say, 30 minutes from cold start, reach a supply water temp of around 130, then shut off and stay off for 2.5 hours as the water cools back down to room temp. That's a typical 1/6th duty cycle.
The boiler runs for 80 minutes at 124,000 BTU/hr and produces 164,000 BTU which mostly get stored in the water and the cast iron. That's enough to keep the building warm for eight hours.
Yes and no. That long a run happens only once per day, in the morning when recovering from a 3 degree overnight setback. But because the building is extra cold from the overnight low temps, the heat loss rate is at a maximum, and the Tstat will typically have to call for heat again within 3 hours or so on cold days. So while there is a lot of heat stored in the 150 F avg water after the 80-minute run, the building is also losing heat at the highest rate from the overnight chilling, so the boiler is not idling for 8 hours in the coldest months. That may well happen later in April or May though, as overnight temps moderate. (I only started with the setback program last November, so I don't yet know exactly how long the boiler will idle after recovery in warmer months.)
So at some point in a month or two, the boiler could well stay idle for 8 hours after setback recovery, but right now in very cold weather it typically idles only 3 hours or so.
With 60K BTU worth of radiators at 160F, the water would only have to be 100F to produce 20K. So by the time all of that heat has dissipated the radiators would be at or near room temperature.
Yes. After a typical run of 30-45 minutes during the day, the boiler shuts off at a supply temp of 130-140, and the water and rads cool gradually to near room temp, probably within an hour or two. After longer runs, the water is hotter and will take longer to cool. But I haven't paid as much attention to how long it takes to cool down. I only started the setback a few months ago, and am not sure how long it takes the system to cool down after the long run to recover from setback.
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Possible, but our envelope is fairly tight. Windows are original 100-year-old double hung wood, but have been professionally weatherstripped with spring bronze air seals and silicone rubber bulb seals, plus semi-crappy aluminum storm windows that do help some. But the windows themselves are quite tight now.
So while it is colder near windows, it's mainly because of the low R-value of the window assembly, and not air leaks per se. So maybe deduct 5 degrees from avg room temp at the rads, ie 63 vs 68.
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No, it really is steady state after about 80 minutes. I stand there with an IR gun that has a 4-digit readout, and when the black tape on the supply pipe gets to around 159.9 degrees, the temperature stops climbing no matter how long I stand there, with the boiler running continuously, until the Tstat satisfies. (And yes, the IR gun can read up to 400+ degrees).
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Yes. In reality, the heat loss on an average cold day is only maybe 20,000-30,000 BTU/hr, so about 15% to 25% of boiler net output. So boiler needs to run only 30 minutes or so every 2-3 hours on most cold days.
The only reason for the one long 80-minute burn in the morning is to recover from a 3-degree overnight setback. And during that burn, 60% or more of those BTU's are being stored in the water and cast iron as delta T, not being radiated.
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Forgive my ignorance, but I am unable to find the actual problem with the system in this thread. Is the house not reaching set temperature? Underheating? What's the complaint?
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Sorry, no complaint, just a question.
When I consult the BTU output tables for cast iron radiators, the table says cast iron radiators will radiate 110 BTU/hr/sq ft at 150 degrees avg water temp. But from measuring my system at steady state, at 150 degrees avg water temperature, the radiators (and pipes) have to be radiating closer to 220 BTU/hr/sq ft.
That's because at 150 degrees avg water temp, with the boiler firing continuously, at a known output, the water temperature stops rising. That means the radiators and pipes are now radiating the boiler's entire net output, in a thermal equilibrium.
Then dividing that known boiler net output, corrected for known combustion efficiency, by the radiator square footage, says that the radiators must be outputting 220 BTU/hr/sq ft. But the tables say they should only be radiating half that, at the 150 degree avg water temp.
So the question is, why is there a factor of 2 discrepancy? Are the cast iron radiator BTU tables intentionally "sandbagged" to be conservative? If so, why such a big fudge factor? It seems the BTU output tables for finned baseboard are quite accurate, by contrast.
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the fin tube ratings used to be confirmed by IBR independent testing. Pretty much all the fin tube manufacturers had IBR ratings. Then GAMA took over IBR and they wanted to change the testing methodology. Disagreements among the manufacturers caused many to abandon the program.
As a result you started to see some wild output claims when high output fin tube started to show up, as manufacturers developed their own testing and rating methods. A pic of one testing lab had two fans running during the test! So much for natural convection output🫣
I don’t know if there was ever an independent testing standard for radiators, or where those BTU numbers come from?
Maybe the Stelrad folks will chime in and tell us how they rate the radiators they build? Perhaps there is a DIN standard across the pond?
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
@jesmed1 SAID: "Envelope heat loss at zero degrees outside air temp requires 50,000 BTU/hr input. So assuming 75% efficiency, actual envelope heat loss = .75 x 50,000 = 37,500 BTU/hr at zero degrees outside air temp."
This is a flawed assumption. This is actually backwards. If your building heat loss is actually 50,000 BTUh then the efficiency of the heating equipment does not get that multiplyer subtracted from it. The heat loss does not change based on the efficiency of the fuel.. If that were the case, then an old coal boiler that is converted with a 60 year old oil burner that has a combustion efficiency of 60% or less and the piping and pickup loss of 15% was added to that operating efficiency, then the actual equipment efficiency would be 51%. With your logic, the building loss would drop to 25,500 BTUh. But that same building heated with a 100% efficient electric resistance heater would have a total load of 50,000 BTUh, and that same building with a heat pump with a COP of 3 would have a heat loss of 150,000 BTUh because the heat pump is 3 times more efficient than electric resistance heat.
I would say to this: “Hogwash, Balderdash, and Blarney”
The building load is what it is regardless of the equipment used to heat it. Where that efficiency shows up is when you have say a 100,000 input and end up with a total output after all factors are considered of a lesser number. That lesser number is the NET output of the boiler and that number is what you use to match the system to the building. The input is to size the gas pipe, or electric service amperage, or the oil nozzle size. The DOE output is the difference between the input and the equipment efficiency. (used to compare boilers and furnaces since the 1970s) The NET output is the number you use for matching the heat loss of the building to the appliance.
And I still don't know how you are making all those extra BTUs disappear. Are you sure you don't have a leak somewhere? or maybe one of the other condo owners are storing them in a bucket and selling them to the neighbors. It's all a big conspiracy to rob the little guy and give it to the 1%
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I thought I had explained this in my response. The heat capacity of the water and cast iron in the system is enormous compared to the heating load, the output of the radiators or the output of the boiler. This causes significant time shifting between the output of the boiler and the output of the radiators.
It's like pulling on a slinky attached to a weight. The weight moves from your pull, but delayed.
No information that you've provided is inconsistent with the belief that the radiators are in fact putting out their rated output. It squares with the reported run time of the boiler and with the total fuel consumption.
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@EdTheHeaterMan I agree with everything you said. 🙂
Let me try again, as I evidently didn't express myself very well.
What I was trying to say is, that during a zero-degree day, in order to maintain a constant interior temperature, the boiler burns an average of .36 gallons per hour. So at 140,000 BTU/gallon, that's a BTU input rate of about 50,000 BTU/hr.
This is from measured boiler run times during actual zero degree days, so it's not theoretical. It's what the boiler actually consumes.
Now, we know the boiler isn't 100% efficient. It's not actually putting 50,000 BTU/hr into the house. It's losing 20% or more up the flue. And what's left over is what's actually heating the house. And it's the "what's left over" that is the actual heat loss of the house envelope.
So the question becomes, "what's left over?" Because that's what the actual heat loss is, not the 50,000 BTU/hr. We don't know exactly "what's left over" after flue losses, because that depends on combustion efficiency and jacket losses. But we can get a good estimate. Our dry gas combustion efficiency is known at 82%, and then I subtract 7% latent heat of vapor loss (a ballpark figure for oil), so overall combustion efficiency is maybe 75%.
There are also jacket losses, but since those are small and whatever heat is lost through the jacket goes into the house anyway, I ignore that for simplicity. So I estimate that, of the 50,000 BTU/hr the boiler consumes during a zero degree day, 75% of that is what is coming into the house as useful heat and ultimately being lost as heat loss through the envelope. So I figure that our envelope heat loss is actually .75 x 50,000 = 37,500 BTU/hr.
I phrased my earlier post the way I did because people will have different opinions of what our boiler efficiency actually is. Someone will say, no, your boiler is only running at 70% efficiency. OK, well, if that's true, then we're only getting .7 x 50,000 = 35,000 BTU/hr into the house, and that's our actual heat loss, not the 37,500 BTU/hr I calculated.
So I was trying to remove the uncertainty by saying that, on a zero-degree design day, the boiler consumes oil at an input rate of 50,000 BTU/hr, and if you believe my 75% efficiency estimate, that means you agree our envelope is losing 37,500 BTU/hr. If you don't believe my efficiency number and you think the boiler is only running at 70% efficiency, then you're implying our envelope heat loss is closer to 35,000 BTU/hr.
I don't know what the exact right envelope heat loss number is. Opinions will vary. What is a known fact is that the boiler uses an average of 50,000 BTU/hr input during a zero degree design day, and then we can infer the envelope heat loss from there if we know the exact boiler net output, which we don't. But we can make an educated estimate based on a reasonable estimate of boiler efficiency.
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A lot of unknowns.
The boiler input and efficiency calculation if probably reasonably accurate.
The output of heat radiated by the massive amount of piping is an unknown.
The amount of heat radiated from the piping that stays in the building that is useful to help offset the building heat loss is an unknown
And the heat output from the radiation isn't an easy calculation either.
The one thing that is fairly accurate is the boiler output. If the burner/boiler reaches steady state the the combined output from the radiation and piping has to = the boiler output
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Sorry, I didn't grasp what you were saying the first time around.
Let's run some numbers. There are only two "storage" media to absorb the BTU's: water and cast iron.
At 150 degrees average water temp, the water stops "storing" BTU's, because the water temperature stops rising.
So the only other media that can continue "storing" BTU's is the cast iron. Based on the number and size of rads, and the boiler weight, I calculate a combined rad and boiler weight of 4600 pounds. Let's throw in another 1400 pounds of piping and call it 6000 pounds.
Cast iron absorbs 0.11 BTU/lb/deg F. So the total heat capacity of our cast iron is, say, 6000 x 0.11 = 660 BTU/deg F.
So I'm trying to account for 60,000 BTU/hr of "missing" heat loss. It's not being stored in the water as delta T, because the water temp has plateaued at 150. So let's assume you're right, and that those 60,000 BTU/hr are still being soaked up as delta T in the cast iron as it heats up more slowly. That implies a rate of temperature rise of 60,000 BTU/hr divided by 660 BTU/deg F, which equals 91 degrees/hr temperature rise in the cast iron, or about 1.5 degrees/minute temperature rise.
That sounds quite possible. I'll check the rate of temp rise in the cast iron tomorrow morning.
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"At 150 degrees average water temp, the water stops "storing" BTU's, because the water temperature stops rising."
This is the observation I think is not correct. I think the water temperature is still rising, just too slow to observe. Before the aquastat in the boiler hits the high limit the thermostat shuts off and the boiler shuts down. We don't ever reach a steady state.
The boiler is producing 124K BTU/hr. 60K of that is being put out by the radiators, 64K is being absorbed by the water and iron. You've got 600 BTU/F in heat capacity in the iron and 1245 in the water, so 1845 BTU/F total heat capacity (there's no reason to believe the iron would be at any temperature other than the water temperature). To absorb 64K BTU/hr the water and iron would have to be warming at a rate of 35F per hour, or 0.57F per minute, which to a casual observer looks like it's not moving.
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It seems like a lot of people have a problem with others trying to understand what is going on around them and how things work.
I don't understand why that is. Learning is important as is understanding how things work and why we do what we do.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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This is true, there is a lot of wasted brain power being used here, However I disagree with @ethicalpaul's disagreement. Unless he is referring to his own participation herein. Then his disagreement is something that I may not disagree with. Does anyone else disagree?
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I agree that determining the rate of temp rise is crucial, and it's possible I didn't monitor the temp long enough to determine that the rise rate was in fact zero. That 80-minute run was the longest I'd ever observed, and although I thought I'd stood there long enough with the IR gun to confirm zero temp rise for at least a few minutes, that may not have been accurate enough.
The boiler didn't run long enough this morning to get past 145 degree supply temp, so I'll have to wait for colder weather to return in order to get a longer run again.
Meanwhile, I did monitor the supply temp this morning during a 60-minute run. Unfortunately I missed the last 15 minutes of it. But I did collect data manually for 25 minutes, taking one temperature reading per minute. Readings were take from the 1-1/4" copper supply outlet at the boiler, with a handheld IR thermometer aimed at black vinyl electrical tape around the copper. See chart below in the pdf attachment.
The data is somewhat noisy, probably due to turbulent flow at the boiler supply exit. But a linear regression "best fit" done in a Google Sheets chart shows an R-squared of 0.997 for a straight line through the data points, which means the temperature rise is extremely linear and almost perfectly described by a straight line through the data points. This was surprising to me, as I expected it to be more of a curve, bending over as the temperature rose.
The slope of the "best fit" line is 0.80 degrees/minute. So if our 1845 BTU/deg F heat capacity is correct, that implies the cast iron and water are absorbing 0.8 x 1845 = 1476 BTU/min, or 88,560 BTU/hr.
Then from a net output of 124,000 BTU/hr, that leaves 35,440 BTU/hr being radiated. And dividing by a radiator plus pipe area of 554 sq ft gives us an implied radiation of 64 BTU/hr/sq ft.
So let's check the cast iron radiator BTU table. During the above run, I took one surface temp reading about halfway through the run, at the midpoint of a radiator that I expected would represent a system average, being neither the farthest nor the closest rad to the boiler. That surface temp was 124 degrees (which was right about the average water temp at that point, with the supply temp being 135 and the return being 115).
And the radiator BTU table says that, at 124 degrees, a cast iron radiator will output about 60 BTU/hr/sq ft. Which is quite close to our implied output calculation of 64 BTU/hr/sq ft above. So the cast iron radiator BTU chart is correct, and my mistake was in starting from a flawed premise of thermal equilibrium.
So the numbers all fit surprisingly well. The thermal mass is absorbing about 70% of the BTU's, and the surface area is emitting about 30% of the BTU's.
And I think you're right that my mistake was in believing the water temp had stopped rising at 160 F supply, because I didn't monitor long enough. The straight line fit to the temperature rise in this morning's data was a surprise to me, because I had expected more of a flattening of the curve as the temp rises, due to the non-linearity of radiative heat loss. But evidently the rate of change is highly linear.
@EdTheHeaterMan will not be surprised to find that I was wrong again, and that the linearity of the temperature rise means the boiler probably would have hit the high limit eventually, though it would have taken several hours before China Syndrome. 😀 That's good. I learn more from being wrong than being right!
Thanks to everyone who took the time to reply!
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I see a btu meter in your future for gathering accurate data. Something the gathers, and stores data accurately. So you aren’t standing by your boiler countless hours.
At the very least get a strap on delta T meter and logger. Those point and shoot IR are susceptible to how and where you point them. Good for quick ballpark measurements, but perhaps not giving you the accurate data you expect.
Onset HOBO are an affordable option.
Find lab quality loggers on E-bay at affordable prices.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
I thought I'd stood there long enough with the IR gun to confirm zero temp rise for at least a few minutes
That right there makes all your readings questionable!
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I have clamp on probes for refrigeration and chilled water.
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I do have two recording data loggers with probes that I've used before on these boilers, but I took them off a while back when I needed them for another project. So unfortunately I didn't have them set up when I wanted to get the supply temps this time around, and I grabbed the IR gun and stood there with it for a few minutes and concluded the supply temp had stopped rising. That was my mistake.
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You don't seem like the type to leave much to chance😉 As you know the thermistors will be more accurate, more responsive, and not subject to operator error.
I've found shiny electrical tape is not best. Try a wrap or black friction tape, non glossy, and notice a different reading. Or black magic marker some blue painters tape, something thin.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
Thanks, will try that tomorrow.
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