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Will I break this?

tomold
tomold Member Posts: 4
in Strictly Steam

Want to try my hand at replacing this Warren Webster steam trap element but the cap is not budging. I’ve tried a 12” adjustable wrench but have not tried escalating to a cheater bar or impact wrench.

Should I back away slowly and call a pro or keep at it? Thanks!

IMG_1055.jpeg

Comments

  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 829

    HEAT! and a bigger wrench. I'd use a big socket and a breaker bar. But first I'd heat it up with a torch and give it some taps with a hammer, not too hard but hard enough. Maybe some penetrating oil for good measure.

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

    tomoldLRCCBJ
  • KarlW
    KarlW Member Posts: 170

    It depends - can you afford to have your system broken for a couple of days while you wait for a mechanic at regular (vs. emergency) rates?

    If you can, then I'd say go for it.

    When I tried to break some of these old fittings, I'd wait until summer when the system was off and I could wait for the mechanic rather than break my system the winter and freeze my house.

    I've managed to replace or repair 14 steam traps out of season this way.

    On the other hand, when I do have an idea of something to do in the middle of the season, like add a vent to a slow radiator, I give it a try as you did. When I can't do it, rather than push to the point of breakage I call the mechanic.

    bburdtomold
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,113

    If the system is functioning properly you should be able to just close the valve if the trap were to break. You can also remove it and cap the pipes or replace the whole trap. There should not be steam in the returns unless traps are bad somewhere.

    tomoldethicalpaulfixitguy
  • Long Beach Ed
    Long Beach Ed Member Posts: 1,411

    It's brass. It will come apart. As Grallert says, heat it. Hammer it. An impact wrench should do well too.

    TKPKLRCCBJtomoldGrallert
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,190

    It's amazing what a little heat — not much — maybe a little penetrating oil… and an impact wrench will do.

    But. Have a backup wrench on the body of the thing!

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    tomoldGrallert
  • LRCCBJ
    LRCCBJ Member Posts: 658

    It's amazing what a little heat — not much — maybe a little penetrating oil… and an impact wrench will do.

    The "penetrating oil" approach is a fallacy. It never gets inside the threads unless:

    1. Gravity is driving it there
    2. You wait for 36 hours, minimum to allow gravity to do the work.

    You are correct regarding the heat. Nothing beats it. And, sometimes you need quite a bit of it. 225F or more to reduce the required torque significantly.

    tomoldethicalpaul
  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 2,272

    Good advice is offered above. But I would have a full replacement on hand just in case the whole thing gets damaged.

    tomold
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,765

    Put a backup wrench on the trap so you don't break the small pipe connections. Use a cheater on the back up wrench and a cheater on the socket or wrench on the cap. Socket is the best if you have one.

    Hold the back up and hit the wrench that is on the cap with a hammer. You need three hands to do this sometimes. Penetrating oil will probably do nothing.

    An impact with a socket is the best as vibration is your friend.

    It will come off

    I have rebuilt 100s of traps and very few if any would not come apart.

    Worse comes to worse replace the trap and the radiator spud.

    mattmia2tomoldLRCCBJIntplm.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,113

    if there is a space for penetrating oil to get in to capillary action will pull it there buy usually stuff that is stuck has the threads pretty solidly filled in

  • tomold
    tomold Member Posts: 4

    Thanks for the advice, all!

  • meeester11
    meeester11 Member Posts: 1

    I see the use of impact guns be included I didn't see heat/freeze cycling mentioned. Here is a link discussing Oil of Wintergreen. https://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=271527&page=all

    guzzinerd
  • guzzinerd
    guzzinerd Member Posts: 302

    Cordless, brushless Milwaukee impact wrench. Quick and easy

    Bryant 245-8, 430k btu, 2-pipe steam in a 1930s 6-unit 1-story apt building in the NM mountains. 26 radiators 3800sqf

  • retiredguy
    retiredguy Member Posts: 989

    When I rebuilt these traps, I used an 18" Crescent wrench (USA made} and a 6 point socket wrench with a cheater pipe. Pull both wrenches at the same time with equal pressure on each wrench. Worked every time.

    delcrossv
  • Fred Harwood_2
    Fred Harwood_2 Member Posts: 196

    I've changed dozens of the 512 in my time. Use a backup wrench at the bottom, and a socket with bar on the top. Tap around the top edge as you increase forces. Never broke anything.

    Oil and steam are not good partners. Use penetrating oil as a last measure, and clean up well before reinstalling the cap and new bellows.

    Intplm.

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