Advice to balance these radiators? (Tracked my radiator performance)
1st floor: LR, DR, kitchen
2nd floor: 3 BR's. #1 & #2 are vacant. #3 is our bedroom.
Thermostat is in LR.
I think I want the LR to have most heat. That is where we spend our time when awake. I want LR to be 67, and do not care about rest of house. When sleeping in BR#3, I might turn the house down to 60. Space heater in BR? House can stay 60 while we're at work. So, 5pm-10pm, house at 67. 10pm-5pm house at 60?
LR temp was 61. Set thermostat to 68. Boiler kicks on. Tankless coil already full of hot water.
Yes, I plan to call a plumber to replace main vent Gorton #1 to a #2
10:00 minLR Section 1/20 is hot (Gorton D)
DR Section 1/16 is cold (VariValve)
BR #1 Section 3/8 hot (Gorton D)
BR #2 Section 2/7 hot (Gorton D)
BR #3 Section 1/17 barely warm (Gorton C)
LR Section 9/20 hot (Gorton D)
DR Section 6/16 hot (VariValve)
BR #1 All sections 8/8 hot. (Gorton D)
BR #2 Almost all sections 7/7 hot (Gorton D)
BR #3 Half full. Section 8/17 hot. Venting sounds (Gorton C)
LR Section 11/20 hot (Gorton D)
DR Section 8/16 hot (VariValve)
BR #1 All sections 8/8 hot. (Gorton D)
BR #2 All sections 7/7 hot (Gorton D)
BR #3 3/4 full. Section 12/17. Vent now quiet. (Gorton C)
Any advice?
Swap the C into an empty BR?
I have a spare Hoffman 1A. Use it?
Buy more VentRite adjustable?
Comments
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Gorton D is too large for any radiator. With all those massive vents, you can't control where the steam will go. It will find the easiest way and go there. You have to make the steam go where you want it, and that is not with these massive vents.
It's like putting wild horses onto a 400 acre farm and hoping they will go to one particular spot. You need to install some fences.
Buy three MoM or Gorton #5, and three #6, then see where the heat goes and adjust from there.
That's what I would do anyway.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
Remember the three rules for venting single pipe steam: first, get the main venting right. Then, if a room is too hot, slow it down. Only then maybe speed up a cold room.
The other rule — for any steam heating — is it doesn't matter how much of the radiator is hot (or not). What matters is is the room comfortable?
And… for any steam or hot water heat — go easy on the setbacks. The evidence for saving energy is flimsy, unless the time off is quite long (days).
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England3 -
4 apartments, 32 rads almost all 4s a few 5s and one 6.
For comparison. 😉
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
Jamie says it all: "it doesn't matter how much of the radiator is hot (or not). What matters is is the room comfortable?"…
The heat loss vs. radiator sizing in each room is usually different as is your desire for heat. Trial and error testing is the best way to size vents after an initial installation. Then remember that the system will behave differently on cool vs. cold days and windy days. It will take some experimenting and switching vents until you are happy with the outcome.
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Ok, so there is finite steam, and all the radiators are fighting for it.
ok, so Gorton D for the 2 empty bedrooms is obvious overkill. They are getting hot first. They should be last.
Why Gorton #5/#6 instead of adjustable VentRite? Should I get VentRite #1 for these 2 rooms? VentRite is pretty slow, even on setting #8. I can put both empty BR's on setting 1.
I want to LR to get hottest/fastest, so Gorton D makes sense for LR? Leave that?
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D is just too large. It is for maybe a 3rd or 4th floor radiator, far from the boiler
It’s exactly the same size as your main vent
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
This thread should be combined with this one.
https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/198166/single-pipe-steam-inlet-side-hot-vent-side-cold-should-radiator-fins-all-heat-up-at-same-time#latest
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
Then you have complexities that relate to the piping and sizing of your individual system's components. If sloppy piping practice, undersized or improperly pitched piping or a poorly designed boiler gives you wet steam, you may need slower vents. In those cases, large vents can produce more condensate than the system can handle at startup and spit water or hammer.
As was mentioned, a undersized boiler or piping peculiarities with fast venting can have radiators competing for steam with some not getting hot at all.If you are looking at consumer-quality vents, don't waste you money. The original,eighty year old ones are probably better.
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I ranked the popular vents by speed
Vent Type & Setting
1oz.cfm
2oz.cfm
3oz.cfm
Hoffman 1A Setting 1
0.020
0.026
0.033
Ventrite #1 Setting 2
0.033
0.020
0.021
Ventrite #1 Setting 3
0.025
0.036
0.046
Gorton 4
0.025
0.040
0.055
Ventrite #1 Setting 4
0.030
0.053
0.066
Maid-O-Mist 4
0.028
0.045
0.060
Ventrite #1 Setting 5
0.045
0.071
0.091
Hoffman 1A Setting 2
0.026
0.043
0.056
Ventrite #1 Setting 6
0.056
0.091
0.116
Heat Timer Varivalve Min Setting Angle Pattern
0.065
0.158
0.200
Ventrite #1 Setting 7
0.070
0.108
0.133
Gorton 5
0.080
0.130
0.160
Ventrite #1 Setting 8
0.083
0.125
0.158
Hoffman 1A Setting 3
0.100
0.158
0.200
Maid-O-Mist 5
0.100
0.158
0.200
Hoffman 1A Setting 4
0.108
0.160
0.210
Hoffman 1A Setting 5
0.140
0.220
0.290
Hoffman 1A Setting 6
0.145
0.225
0.300
Maid-O-Mist 6
0.150
0.241
0.300
Gorton 6
0.150
0.235
0.300
Gorton C
0.270
0.450
0.570
Maid-O-Mist C
0.283
0.450
0.583
Gorton D
0.330
0.540
0.700
Gorton #1
0.330
0.540
0.700
Maid-O-Mist D
0.341
0.600
0.783
Heat Timer Varivalve 50% Setting Angle Pattern
0.340
0.580
0.766
Hoffman #75
0.500
0.750
0.960
Heat Timer Varivalve Max Setting Angle Pattern
0.516
0.850
1.130
Gorton #2
1.100
1.750
2.200
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It took me a couple of Hours, but i believe I found someone that can balance your radiator. The trouble is that she is in SeaWorld in California. So there may be an expense getting her here.
Her name is Sarah the Seal
She works for fishies!
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I don't know when I will schedule a plumber to change my main vent to Gorton #2.
In the meantime, would it be unsafe to install slower vents on the empty bedrooms? Gorton #4 or VentRite.
I want to slow those hot radiators so the LR radiator gets more steam, faster.
But, if I slow down the BR radiators, will I cause pressure to rise and maybe cut off the boiler?
Should I wait to do this ONLY after I get the main vent upgraded to #2 ?
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it’s not dangerous, but changing the main vent will affect balance.
But your radiator vents are so inappropriate it won’t hurt to go ahead and do them now
In my opinion. Of course everything I say is in my opinion
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
As a homeowner if I were in your case being the cheapskate I am I would at least try to drill and tap that riser to your current Gorton 1 main vent and screw those three perfectly good but oversized for the radiator Gorton D's in.😉 Worst case you still have the plumber out and cost of Gorton 2. Best case you don't.
1 -
It's funny you say that. Here's how my internal cheapskate conversation went:
"Those D vents could be converted to any size by taping over the vent hole with aluminum tape and then poking an appropriately-sized hole in the tape"Edit: Here ya go
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
IMO, playing around with rad vents without addressing main venting is just p***ing into the wind.
But it does provide entertainment value.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
I tend to agree, but IIRC he does have a working main vent, it's just maybe a little small, and his radiator vents are outrageous so there is a lot to be gained, including experience.
I want to reach through the internet and show him how to wrench off that main vent.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
Did anyone recommend he get "We got steam heat" by Mr. Holohan?
@CoachBoilermaker available in the shop on this site.
Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.0 -
Why buy the book, when you can get all the information here from us for free? It just takes a couple of months to compile it. …and it won't have all that other stuff that does not refer to his system🤣
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Great idea, but I can't remove the riser. No way I can tap holes in place, overhead. #2 only costs $150. I'm guessing the plumber call will be $500, plus parts.
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It's just in an awkward place. Lots of other pipes also in the way. Tried several placements.
Can't get ANY weight behind the wrench while standing on a stool.
0 -
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You grab the main with one hand and heave into the wrench with your other hand/body. Or pull from the other side while pushing on the main with your other hand/body.
Opposition is the flip side of leverage (and rock climbing)
If you can fit the wrench lower on the nipple it will be better too.
Oh and you have to know you can do it—show it who's boss as my neighbor used to say growing up
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
Drilling and tapping jn place is more slow delicate work than strength work but yes it can get frustrating when access is difficult, your head keeps hitting the pipes and the shoulders start hurting. Can't count how many times friends and family have said to me "you could have just called someone".
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Read an article once that stated buying all your radiator vents from the same manufacturer and setting them all the same eliminates different rates from different manufacturers and makes balancing easier (provided main venting is adequate), you can the tweak each as needed based on comfort.
Also found making small increases over time for the recover from setback thermostat feature worked for me and eliminated overshoot vs making 5F adjustment at once.
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Can we review what effect a slow main vent has?
Boiler makes steam. It can't fill main, so steam is stuck.
The steam will reach the first risers and go to those radiators?
Last radiators are slow to heat since steam is slow to fill main?
In my case, all radiators start heating equally by the 10:00 min mark.
No rad stays cold
Is it about balance or speed or both?
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I got the Gorton #2 installed.
Still takes 10 mins to heat the end of the main.
Here is the before/after radiator performance:
BEFORE
20:00 min
LR Section 9/20 hot (Gorton D)
DR Section 6/16 hot (VariValve)
BR #1 All sections 8/8 hot. (Gorton D)
BR #2 Almost all sections 7/7 hot (Gorton D)
BR #3 Section 8/17 hot. Venting sounds (Gorton C)AFTER
20:00 min
LR Section 12/20 hot (Gorton D)
DR Section 10/16 hot (VariValve)
BR #1 All sections 8/8 hot. (Gorton D)
BR #2 Cold. 0/0 (Testing random spare vent that I could easily blow through)
BR #3 Section 12/17 hot. Venting sounds (Gorton C)0 -
The reason it takes so long to heat the main is because you still have overly-large vents on your radiators.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
Why again is that a bad thing? Don't I want steam at the rads and not the main in basement? All rads are heating up evenly also. All rads first section is warm after 10 minutes. So what exactly was the problem again? I forgot why I even upgraded to a #2 (that made no difference)
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if your radiators were already heating evenly then why did you come here asking for help? 😂
Not being mean, but you ask so many hypothetical questions and maybe some real ones too, that no one can tell what you are seeking
I feel like several people have explained why the main is good to fill first
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el2 -
I posted a thread asking if my rads were too slow to heat up. They were not hot all the way across after 20 mins, which was confusing to me, since the Hallorhan book said steam travels 70mph. I had assumed rads would get fully hot instantly.
Rads aren't exactly heating evenly, but they all start heating up the first section at the 10-15 min mark.
When I mentioned the main took 10 mins to heat, I think then we went down the Gorton #2 path for the last few weeks.
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I think he says 35mph but that’s not true, certainly not at the start of a call for heat. Anyway, if your system is comfortable enjoy it
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0
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