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Advice to balance these radiators? (Tracked my radiator performance)

1st floor: LR, DR, kitchen

2nd floor: 3 BR's. #1 & #2 are vacant. #3 is our bedroom.

Thermostat is in LR.

I think I want the LR to have most heat. That is where we spend our time when awake. I want LR to be 67, and do not care about rest of house. When sleeping in BR#3, I might turn the house down to 60. Space heater in BR? House can stay 60 while we're at work. So, 5pm-10pm, house at 67. 10pm-5pm house at 60?

LR temp was 61. Set thermostat to 68. Boiler kicks on. Tankless coil already full of hot water.

Yes, I plan to call a plumber to replace main vent Gorton #1 to a #2

10:00 min

LR Section 1/20 is hot (Gorton D)
DR Section 1/16 is cold (VariValve)
BR #1 Section 3/8 hot (Gorton D)
BR #2 Section 2/7 hot (Gorton D)
BR #3 Section 1/17 barely warm (Gorton C)

20:00 min

LR Section 9/20 hot (Gorton D)
DR Section 6/16 hot (VariValve)
BR #1 All sections 8/8 hot. (Gorton D)
BR #2 Almost all sections 7/7 hot (Gorton D)
BR #3 Half full. Section 8/17 hot. Venting sounds (Gorton C)

25:00

LR Section 11/20 hot (Gorton D)
DR Section 8/16 hot (VariValve)
BR #1 All sections 8/8 hot. (Gorton D)
BR #2 All sections 7/7 hot (Gorton D)
BR #3 3/4 full. Section 12/17. Vent now quiet. (Gorton C)

Any advice?

Swap the C into an empty BR?

I have a spare Hoffman 1A. Use it?

Buy more VentRite adjustable?

Comments

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,447

    Gorton D is too large for any radiator. With all those massive vents, you can't control where the steam will go. It will find the easiest way and go there. You have to make the steam go where you want it, and that is not with these massive vents.

    It's like putting wild horses onto a 400 acre farm and hoping they will go to one particular spot. You need to install some fences.

    Buy three MoM or Gorton #5, and three #6, then see where the heat goes and adjust from there.

    That's what I would do anyway.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    EdTheHeaterMan
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,600

    Remember the three rules for venting single pipe steam: first, get the main venting right. Then, if a room is too hot, slow it down. Only then maybe speed up a cold room.

    The other rule — for any steam heating — is it doesn't matter how much of the radiator is hot (or not). What matters is is the room comfortable?

    And… for any steam or hot water heat — go easy on the setbacks. The evidence for saving energy is flimsy, unless the time off is quite long (days).

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    ethicalpauldelcrossvEdTheHeaterMan
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,261

    4 apartments, 32 rads almost all 4s a few 5s and one 6.

    For comparison. 😉

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • Long Beach Ed
    Long Beach Ed Member Posts: 1,297

    Jamie says it all: "it doesn't matter how much of the radiator is hot (or not). What matters is is the room comfortable?"…

    The heat loss vs. radiator sizing in each room is usually different as is your desire for heat. Trial and error testing is the best way to size vents after an initial installation. Then remember that the system will behave differently on cool vs. cold days and windy days. It will take some experimenting and switching vents until you are happy with the outcome.

  • CoachBoilermaker
    CoachBoilermaker Member Posts: 288

    Ok, so there is finite steam, and all the radiators are fighting for it.

    ok, so Gorton D for the 2 empty bedrooms is obvious overkill. They are getting hot first. They should be last.

    Why Gorton #5/#6 instead of adjustable VentRite? Should I get VentRite #1 for these 2 rooms? VentRite is pretty slow, even on setting #8. I can put both empty BR's on setting 1.

    I want to LR to get hottest/fastest, so Gorton D makes sense for LR? Leave that?

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,261

    Where's your thermostat? Better not be in the LR.

    A D vent is overkill. You generally dont want some rads to heat faster than others, but rather have them all heat at approximately the same time.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    ethicalpaul
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,447

    D is just too large. It is for maybe a 3rd or 4th floor radiator, far from the boiler

    It’s exactly the same size as your main vent

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,261

    This thread should be combined with this one.

    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/198166/single-pipe-steam-inlet-side-hot-vent-side-cold-should-radiator-fins-all-heat-up-at-same-time#latest

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • Long Beach Ed
    Long Beach Ed Member Posts: 1,297

    Then you have complexities that relate to the piping and sizing of your individual system's components. If sloppy piping practice, undersized or improperly pitched piping or a poorly designed boiler gives you wet steam, you may need slower vents. In those cases, large vents can produce more condensate than the system can handle at startup and spit water or hammer.

    As was mentioned, a undersized boiler or piping peculiarities with fast venting can have radiators competing for steam with some not getting hot at all.

    If you are looking at consumer-quality vents, don't waste you money. The original,eighty year old ones are probably better.

  • CoachBoilermaker
    CoachBoilermaker Member Posts: 288
    edited November 11

    I ranked the popular vents by speed

    https://heatinghelp.com/assets/documents/Balancing-Steam-Systems-Using-a-Vent-Capacity-Chart-1.pdf

    Vent Type & Setting

    1oz.cfm

    2oz.cfm

    3oz.cfm

    Hoffman 1A Setting 1

    0.020

    0.026

    0.033

    Ventrite #1 Setting 2

    0.033

    0.020

    0.021

    Ventrite #1 Setting 3

    0.025

    0.036

    0.046

    Gorton 4

    0.025

    0.040

    0.055

    Ventrite #1 Setting 4

    0.030

    0.053

    0.066

    Maid-O-Mist 4

    0.028

    0.045

    0.060

    Ventrite #1 Setting 5

    0.045

    0.071

    0.091

    Hoffman 1A Setting 2

    0.026

    0.043

    0.056

    Ventrite #1 Setting 6

    0.056

    0.091

    0.116

    Heat Timer Varivalve Min Setting Angle Pattern

    0.065

    0.158

    0.200

    Ventrite #1 Setting 7

    0.070

    0.108

    0.133

    Gorton 5

    0.080

    0.130

    0.160

    Ventrite #1 Setting 8

    0.083

    0.125

    0.158

    Hoffman 1A Setting 3

    0.100

    0.158

    0.200

    Maid-O-Mist 5

    0.100

    0.158

    0.200

    Hoffman 1A Setting 4

    0.108

    0.160

    0.210

    Hoffman 1A Setting 5

    0.140

    0.220

    0.290

    Hoffman 1A Setting 6

    0.145

    0.225

    0.300

    Maid-O-Mist 6

    0.150

    0.241

    0.300

    Gorton 6

    0.150

    0.235

    0.300

    Gorton C

    0.270

    0.450

    0.570

    Maid-O-Mist C

    0.283

    0.450

    0.583

    Gorton D

    0.330

    0.540

    0.700

    Gorton #1

    0.330

    0.540

    0.700

    Maid-O-Mist D

    0.341

    0.600

    0.783

    Heat Timer Varivalve 50% Setting Angle Pattern

    0.340

    0.580

    0.766

    Hoffman #75

    0.500

    0.750

    0.960

    Heat Timer Varivalve Max Setting Angle Pattern

    0.516

    0.850

    1.130

    Gorton #2

    1.100

    1.750

    2.200

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,161

    It took me a couple of Hours, but i believe I found someone that can balance your radiator. The trouble is that she is in SeaWorld in California. So there may be an expense getting her here.

    Her name is Sarah the Seal

    She works for fishies!

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    delcrossv
  • CoachBoilermaker
    CoachBoilermaker Member Posts: 288

    I don't know when I will schedule a plumber to change my main vent to Gorton #2.

    In the meantime, would it be unsafe to install slower vents on the empty bedrooms? Gorton #4 or VentRite.

    I want to slow those hot radiators so the LR radiator gets more steam, faster.

    But, if I slow down the BR radiators, will I cause pressure to rise and maybe cut off the boiler?

    Should I wait to do this ONLY after I get the main vent upgraded to #2 ?

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,447

    it’s not dangerous, but changing the main vent will affect balance.

    But your radiator vents are so inappropriate it won’t hurt to go ahead and do them now

    In my opinion. Of course everything I say is in my opinion

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • dabrakeman
    dabrakeman Member Posts: 608

    As a homeowner if I were in your case being the cheapskate I am I would at least try to drill and tap that riser to your current Gorton 1 main vent and screw those three perfectly good but oversized for the radiator Gorton D's in.😉 Worst case you still have the plumber out and cost of Gorton 2. Best case you don't.

    ethicalpaul
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,447
    edited November 11

    It's funny you say that. Here's how my internal cheapskate conversation went:

    "Those D vents could be converted to any size by taping over the vent hole with aluminum tape and then poking an appropriately-sized hole in the tape"

    Edit: Here ya go

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    dabrakeman
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,261

    IMO, playing around with rad vents without addressing main venting is just p***ing into the wind.

    But it does provide entertainment value.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,447

    I tend to agree, but IIRC he does have a working main vent, it's just maybe a little small, and his radiator vents are outrageous so there is a lot to be gained, including experience.

    I want to reach through the internet and show him how to wrench off that main vent.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    delcrossv
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,261

    Did anyone recommend he get "We got steam heat" by Mr. Holohan?

    @CoachBoilermaker available in the shop on this site.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,161

    Why buy the book, when you can get all the information here from us for free? It just takes a couple of months to compile it. …and it won't have all that other stuff that does not refer to his system🤣

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    bburddelcrossv
  • CoachBoilermaker
    CoachBoilermaker Member Posts: 288

    Great idea, but I can't remove the riser. No way I can tap holes in place, overhead. #2 only costs $150. I'm guessing the plumber call will be $500, plus parts.

  • CoachBoilermaker
    CoachBoilermaker Member Posts: 288

    It's just in an awkward place. Lots of other pipes also in the way. Tried several placements.

    Can't get ANY weight behind the wrench while standing on a stool.

  • CoachBoilermaker
    CoachBoilermaker Member Posts: 288

    Already read it. That's why I am able to even engage here and ask stupid questions!

    delcrossv
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,447
    edited November 11

    You grab the main with one hand and heave into the wrench with your other hand/body. Or pull from the other side while pushing on the main with your other hand/body.

    Opposition is the flip side of leverage (and rock climbing)

    If you can fit the wrench lower on the nipple it will be better too.

    Oh and you have to know you can do it—show it who's boss as my neighbor used to say growing up

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    delcrossv
  • dabrakeman
    dabrakeman Member Posts: 608

    Drilling and tapping jn place is more slow delicate work than strength work but yes it can get frustrating when access is difficult, your head keeps hitting the pipes and the shoulders start hurting. Can't count how many times friends and family have said to me "you could have just called someone".

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,261
    edited November 11
    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    ethicalpaulBobC
  • Wcurtis
    Wcurtis Member Posts: 51

    Read an article once that stated buying all your radiator vents from the same manufacturer and setting them all the same eliminates different rates from different manufacturers and makes balancing easier (provided main venting is adequate), you can the tweak each as needed based on comfort.

    Also found making small increases over time for the recover from setback thermostat feature worked for me and eliminated overshoot vs making 5F adjustment at once.

  • CoachBoilermaker
    CoachBoilermaker Member Posts: 288
    edited November 11

    Can we review what effect a slow main vent has?

    Boiler makes steam. It can't fill main, so steam is stuck.

    The steam will reach the first risers and go to those radiators?

    Last radiators are slow to heat since steam is slow to fill main?

    In my case, all radiators start heating equally by the 10:00 min mark.

    No rad stays cold

    Is it about balance or speed or both?

  • CoachBoilermaker
    CoachBoilermaker Member Posts: 288

    I got a friend to get it loose !

    He braced against the wall, using his opposite hand.

    delcrossvethicalpaul
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,261
    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    ethicalpaulBobC
  • CoachBoilermaker
    CoachBoilermaker Member Posts: 288
    edited November 15

    I got the Gorton #2 installed.

    Still takes 10 mins to heat the end of the main.

    Here is the before/after radiator performance:

    BEFORE
    20:00 min
    LR Section 9/20 hot (Gorton D)
    DR Section 6/16 hot (VariValve)
    BR #1 All sections 8/8 hot. (Gorton D)
    BR #2 Almost all sections 7/7 hot (Gorton D)
    BR #3 Section 8/17 hot. Venting sounds (Gorton C)

    AFTER
    20:00 min
    LR Section 12/20 hot (Gorton D)
    DR Section 10/16 hot (VariValve)
    BR #1 All sections 8/8 hot. (Gorton D)
    BR #2 Cold. 0/0 (Testing random spare vent that I could easily blow through)
    BR #3 Section 12/17 hot. Venting sounds (Gorton C)

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,447

    The reason it takes so long to heat the main is because you still have overly-large vents on your radiators.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    delcrossv
  • CoachBoilermaker
    CoachBoilermaker Member Posts: 288

    Why again is that a bad thing? Don't I want steam at the rads and not the main in basement? All rads are heating up evenly also. All rads first section is warm after 10 minutes. So what exactly was the problem again? I forgot why I even upgraded to a #2 (that made no difference)

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,447
    edited November 15

    if your radiators were already heating evenly then why did you come here asking for help? 😂

    Not being mean, but you ask so many hypothetical questions and maybe some real ones too, that no one can tell what you are seeking

    I feel like several people have explained why the main is good to fill first

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    bburddelcrossv
  • CoachBoilermaker
    CoachBoilermaker Member Posts: 288
    edited November 15

    I posted a thread asking if my rads were too slow to heat up. They were not hot all the way across after 20 mins, which was confusing to me, since the Hallorhan book said steam travels 70mph. I had assumed rads would get fully hot instantly.

    Rads aren't exactly heating evenly, but they all start heating up the first section at the 10-15 min mark.

    When I mentioned the main took 10 mins to heat, I think then we went down the Gorton #2 path for the last few weeks.

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,447

    I think he says 35mph but that’s not true, certainly not at the start of a call for heat. Anyway, if your system is comfortable enjoy it

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el