Need to replace auto flue damper. What should I purchase?

@Slam713 , we do not discuss pricing on this forum. You need to edit your post and remove the pricing.

Now.

See: https://heatinghelp.com/forum-user-manual

Can you post a picture of the wiring diagram?

Quod licet Iovi, non licet bovi

STEVEusaPA said:

Slam713 said:

It was very very expensive. For the part and effort, I could do the work myself. Just want assistance with the correct replacement part. Based off what I see online it’s not a hugely expensive part. Just not sure if all auto dampers are the same, is there an industry preferred brand, and similar wiring style/harness. 

Does the same apply when you charge people for the electrical work that you do?
Don’t you think that’s a pretty unfair approach by a fellow tradesman?
It’s not just wholesale price for parts plus wages that go into the price of a job…you know that, right?

I agree with you Steve... to a point. But You probably fix your stuff from time to time without calling the professional. Can you say you always call an electrician to wire up a new oil burner for a customer? Do you always call a plumber if you need to solder a new hose bib on a frozen pipe in your home. And when it comes to adding a new television to a different room, You cant tell me you have never put a coax splitter on your cable lines in your home.

We that are handy at mechanical things do more that just drive a oil truck and replace a burner nozzle when it comes to our own stuff. Give him a break! Money is tight for some of us these days.

EdTheHeaterMan said:

I agree with you Steve... to a point. But You probably fix your stuff from time to time without calling the professional. Can you say you always call an electrician to wire up a new oil burner for a customer? Do you always call a plumber if you need to solder a new hose bib on a frozen pipe in your home. And when it comes to adding a new television to a different room, You cant tell me you have never put a coax splitter on your cable lines in your home.

We that are handy at mechanical things do more that just drive a oil truck and replace a burner nozzle when it comes to our own stuff. Give him a break! Money is tight for some of us these days.

Ed, Knock it off. Yes of course I fix my own stuff. With your thousand word soliloquy you missed my point.
I went to vo tech for electrical construction-I do all my own wiring, but I had an electrician do my remodel and install my generator, and for my rental properties. I didn’t get a price then go to an electrical forum to get a parts breakdown and a how to.
Do my own plumbing repairs, again, except as above.
A coax splitter is a ridiculous comparison, and btw all those connections are mostly gone. Everything is wireless/wifi.
I don’t bring a professional tradesperson to my house to diagnose an issue I can’t fix, don’t have the skills or replacement parts to find out what’s wrong. Then not have them fix it, go onto a website and prove lack of knowledge by asking too many rudimentary questions. And especially as a fellow tradesman, complain about the price. You do know what union electricians make, right? He must (should) have friends in the trades he could ask, or give them the job. I’ve bartered too many times to even remember.

But luckily you’re here to save the day. Carry on.

WMno57 said:

Besides losing some heat up the chimney are there other disadvantages to deleting the damper?

Only one. the control that a vent damper is plugged into has a circuit that prohibits the average technician from just adding a jumper across the end switch contacts of the boiler control (L8148, L8124, and S8610U and S8900 ignition controls for example) equipped with the 6 pin plug. You need to get a fresh control that still has the Damper Circuit Fuse still in place.

Other than that, if you know how to reenable your control that has the 6 pin Molex plug to work without the damper, then you don't need a damper. The manufacturer needed that damper to reach a minimum efficiency to get that yellow tag with a high enough AFUE number, in order to be able to sell that boiler in the USA. If you don't mind loosing a small amount of efficiency, then you can operate without the damper in the real world.

In the fake world of insurance companies, code enforcement inspectors, and boiler manufacturers, you have modified the equipment and that is reason for a annual inspection failure, or denying an insurance claim, or failing a final inspection so the installing contractor can get paid for your job. But if you boiler is 15 years old in your home, and has a defective damper and you decide to remove it completely, on your own, the system will not blow up, cause a fire, or cost you thousands of dollars in utility bills. The same version of that boiler that is 30 years old may still be operating just fine without a damper because it never had one.

That is my 2 cents.