Roofing question about leak patching
I've owned my house for 10 years and used to think I had a roof leak at my chimney, years later I realized the leak is at the peak of my roof. Previous owner re-roofed the home (it has THREE roofs) Shingle, shaker, then that big panel galvanized stamped fake shingle stuff, looks nice but, yeah... not correct by any means.
My problem: A lot of the fasteners with the little build in rubber grommet have given away over the years, I don't foresee getting larger screws and making that work as the foundation under this roof is poor. The leak happens when it rains and goes through these little holes/ gaps and the leaks is getting between layers of old room, so it was hard to track this. A yearly grey tarp replacement is easy but not ideal.
Solution: Re-roof, not happening anytime soon. While not pretty, can I just bought a gallon of roof tar/goop and some type of mesh/fabric and run a length/layer of patch across my peak where these problem areas are (its only about a 5 foot area thats problematic)?
Comments
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Yes. As a temporary patch -- even for several years -- that will work. Be generous going down both sides from the peak -- and be generous with the roofing tar.
Put on a layer of tar, work the fabric -- coarse fibreglas -- perhaps well into it, and another layer out beyond the edge of the fabric
And a word to the wise: roofing tar gets EVERYWHERE. Nitrile gloves. Long sleeve shirt you hate. Long pants you hate. Socks you hate. Shoes that are ready for the dump. Wear a cap. Safety glasses, of course.
I'd advocate for fall protection as well, but some folks think that that's for sissies...Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England3 -
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Well, yes, @HomerJSmith . But our OP is looking for a temporary patch which is at least a step up from atarp.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
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Sticky butyl is pricey but it does last for several years.0
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Most states only allow 2 layers.HomerJSmith said:Three layers of roofing is the max and that may even crack the ridge or rafter because of the weight.
Makes it easy on roofers to just add shingles than tear off the old roof and then re-shingle.
But that's for an entire roof, not a small patch.Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment0 -
It's a practical way to stop those pesky leaks until you can plan for a re-roofing down the road. Just make sure to apply it carefully, and it should help keep things dry.electronictofu said:Hi all! Happy Monday.
I've owned my house for 10 years and used to think I had a roof leak at my chimney, years later I realized the leak is at the peak of my roof. Previous owner re-roofed the home (it has THREE roofs) Shingle, shaker, then that big panel galvanized stamped fake shingle stuff, looks nice but, yeah... not correct by any means.
My problem: A lot of the fasteners with the little build in rubber grommet have given away over the years, I don't foresee getting larger screws and making that work as the foundation under this roof is poor. The leak happens when it rains and goes through these little holes/ gaps and the leaks is getting between layers of old room, so it was hard to track this. A yearly grey tarp replacement is easy but not ideal.
Solution: Re-roof, not happening anytime soon. While not pretty, can I just bought a gallon of roof tar/goop and some type of mesh/fabric and run a length/layer of patch across my peak where these problem areas are (its only about a 5 foot area thats problematic)?1 -
@electronictofu
There is a product called Henry Roof Patch that is offered for many different applications. Maybe look this stuff up. Some say it doesn't have to be called temporary once it is applied. But then again, aren't all roofs temporary?0 -
Your concept will work... as a stopgap. It is better than a tarp, but not that much. The roof is the second most important part of a structure, after the frame, and the sooner you get yours torn all the way down to the rafters or purlins and reroofed the happier everything will be.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
it's a temporary fix, better than a tarp but not by much. You're right about the roof being super important. I'll plan on getting it fully redone down to the rafters soon. That should make a big difference.0
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Hi, I'll throw out another idea. Metal roofing has substantial expansion/contraction with temperature changes. Roofing tar, once it's dried does not expand or contract so well. This means it probably won't stay watertight so long. Embedding roofing cloth will help, but that's usually used on larger areas.
If it's only leaking at fastener penetrations, some cleaning and then sealing over those spots with butyl or silicon caulking would likely get you by until you can strip it all down to good wood, and re-roof.
Yours, Larry
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Yes to a roofing contractor — unless you fancy doing the job yourself, which I don't recommend. Unless you like heights and have the necessary safety rigging.
Your roof, from you description, needs to be stripped to whatever sheathing — if any — is under the shingles, new sheathing unless the old is in good shape, and new shingles. Don't try to put another layer over that combination.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Nowadays there's silicone coating that's supposed to last fifty years. So can I staple felt to sheeting on a sloped roof and roll the coating?
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