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what is this blue goo and is it the reason i can't remove this airvent?

this airvent will not budge. is that blue goo at the threading called "thread lock"? i could push harder than i am, but where i'm at already feels like i'm gonna break the whole pipe off before this airvent will budge. and something tells me that blue stuff might require a little more than WD40. suggestions?


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Comments
When you put it back together just use teflon tape and no dope it will come off easier the next time
To the OP, you need two pipe wrenches turning in opposite directions, not one crescent wrench--or at least one big crescent wrench for the vent with a pipe wrench to hold the pipe or coupling--and more muscle.
How long is the main it vents?—NBC
After the grief of removing it, I would consider a Gorton #2.
You do not have to overtighten it as it should not see much over 2 PSI of pressure, tighten later if a drip.
If the coupler has been loosened, you should take it off and re-seal the threads, so I'd just take the whole thing of and take it out to the garage and stick it in a vise and unscrew the vent. Then you can replace it with the right size vent or build up and antler or whatever you gotta do.
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
The blue goo could be lock tite which is an epoxy.
The stuff will begin to melt and at that time try unscrewing it. Use two wrenches or just remove the coupling and use a new one.
Jake
by Jacob (Jake) Myron
what a pain. wanted to be a DIYer but if i screw this up after buying a Gorton #2 and fitting, pipe wrench, giant crescent wrench, and plumber's dope, the closest my wife will let me get to the heating system will be adjusting the thermostat.
The first rule of heating is "don't tell your wife"
Yours, Larry
I don't think the blue stuff is threadlocker, but heat should solve the problem anyway. The trick is to heat the coupler quickly so it expands before the heat transfers to the vent threads and expands them too.
Why are you even worried about ruining the threads? It's a coupler. They can be replaced!
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
No, you can’t have too fast or to much main venting. On some longer 3” mains, you might need 4 or more Gorton #2s to very it well. I’m running a hodgepodge of a Gorton 2, two Gorton 1s, and a a big mouth which I calculate maxes out the 3/4” tapping. I have another big mouth on a 1/4” tapping I added upstream. An 4 other varivents on 1/8” tappings I added.
Varivents I think actually make OK-ish main vents at a cheap price assuming you have dry steam without a lot of excess condensate in the main.
the other area of concern is that everything from the nipple down inaccessible. if i screw something up it will be a major pain.
but what the heck, i might as well give it a go. any recommendations on what i can use if there is a bunch of krud left on the threads? i guess i can just try and melt and wipe away what i can, and then hit the rest with some steel wool, maybe try to pick off any pieces that are clearly stuck in there with a file or pointy thing. also, as someone said earlier, this thing won't see anything more that 2psi. should i just use teflon tape to put the new one on? i have plumber's dope, but if people take these off every few years to clean i might just save myself the trouble and use teflon tape for it.