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SuperStor SS-40 Aquastat Immersion Well LEAKING

StahlMaster
StahlMaster Member Posts: 8
The Immersion Well is leaking on my SuperStor SS-40 indirect water heater. I'm looking for advice on getting this fixed. I know why it's leaking I just need to get it fixed. I live in DownRiver Michigan.

D
RxRoy

Comments

  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 4,962
    Well if it's leaking because of a weld failure (typically), then you need a new SuperStor.
    If it's just the threads, drain system, back out well, re-tape, re-install (which may or may not be possible with your tank).
    steve
  • StahlMaster
    StahlMaster Member Posts: 8
    The company that makes the SuperStor does sell replacement wells so I'm guessing its not welded. The leak is coming out of the end of the tube where the aquastat goes in, not at the threaded end.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 15,828
    Seems to me like you sort of have answered your own question. If you know why it's leaking, then you also know where. There are exactly three choices: is it a repairable leak in the assembly? Then repair it. Is the assembly replaceable with less hassle than repair? Replace it. Is the assembly neither repairable or replaceable? Replace the tank.

    Since we don't know where the leak is nor why, we really can't say much about how that specific leak could be repaired...
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    HomerJSmith
  • StahlMaster
    StahlMaster Member Posts: 8
    It's leaking out of the end of the tube where the aquastat is connected. Drip, drip, drip.
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 3,917
    edited February 2018
    Keep in mind the well for the SS is stainless, not brass.
  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 513
    Swap it out. Get everything ready tape threads of new well have it within reach. disconnect the control turn of the boiler. Cool the tank off by running cold through it, just cool enough so you don't get burned during the next step. shut off water supply. Loosen the leaking well to hand tight and drain tank from boiler drain until you can hear the suction at the well. you'll have developed a vacuum at that spot, enough to quickly swap out the wells with out having to drain the whole tank.
    SuperTech
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 14,785
    cut away the insulation first and make sure it is not the weld or thread.

    The leak could be either the tank weld around the port, the thread connection, or a pin hole in the well itself.

    If you pull the sensor out and water flow out of the well, it's the problem.

    Most often wells fail, but welds and threads can leak also.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • StahlMaster
    StahlMaster Member Posts: 8
    Is there a product that will prevent corrosion in the well from the dissimilar metals? If so, where can I get it?
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 1,292
    This is an HTP SuperStor Ultra 45 tank? These are very thin wall stainless tanks subject of collapse if a vacuum occurs in the tank.

    Better to shut off the cold water supply to the tank and open several hot water tap in the house then drain the tank and replace the well using a good sealant. I don't recommend opening the pressure relief valve as you may end up replacing it because it may thereafter leak.

    We use a heat transfer paste on the aquastat probe before reinstalling the aquastat. I'm not aware of any heat transfer paste the act as a dielectric, if you think that dissimilar metals may have caused the leak. It would be a new one on me.
  • lchmb
    lchmb Member Posts: 2,997
    and the well's are usually tough to get lose. Use a big wrench...
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 3,917
    SS stainless tank should have a stainless well.
    SuperTech
  • StahlMaster
    StahlMaster Member Posts: 8
    However, the bulb for the aquastat is copper. Will that cause corrosion?
  • NY_Rob
    NY_Rob Member Posts: 1,370
    It may not be shot, maybe just clean threads, retape and redope.
    Reinstall and see what happens....


  • rickh
    rickh Member Posts: 22
    Better have a proper socket, breaker bar and persuader. The only time I had the same call I just grabbed a pipe wrench thinking no problem. Well there isn't a lot to grab and being factory installed it wasn't long before I was in trouble. Had to cut away a fair amount of the jacket in order to get enough bite on anything. Finally got it out but would never try it again without proper socket.
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 1,292
    rickh says, "Better have a proper socket, breaker bar and persuader." I always have my wife do it, she's a pretty good persuader.
    SuperTech
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 14,785
    A stainless well with a stainless bushing would lessen any electrolysis between the metals.
    Brass and lower grades of stainless are far apart on the series. The electrolyte (water) has a bit to do also. If your water is softened or has high TDS, it will accelerate electrolysis. Area effect can increase electrolysis corrosion also.

    Possibly hotter water accelerates electrolysis? I know hotter water causes more minerals to precipitate in DHW tanks.

    A good, easy read on dissimilar metals here.

    A 6 point deep socket is a sure way to remove and install wells with the least amount of wrestling.

    https://www.assda.asn.au/technical-info/technical-faqs/galvanicdissimilar-metal-corrosion
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • StahlMaster
    StahlMaster Member Posts: 8
    I have the new well ordered along with a new aqustat and pipe compound. There is about three inches of well sticking out from the tank with plenty of access all around. I do have 6 point sockets along with 6 point box wrenches. I will snap a few photos of the install and post them here. Thanks for all the information. I am determined to keep my "HydroTherm" AM 100 and SuperStor tank running long after others have written them off as not worth fixing.
  • StahlMaster
    StahlMaster Member Posts: 8
    Sorry for the delay. Installing the new aquastat and aquastat well went very "well" (no pun intended). I was able to use my large 12pt box wrench to remove the old one. The new on was smaller in diameter but had the sleeve to fit my bigger opening. In the photos you can see where the leak was showing up on the aquastat box. I removed the bulb from the well with
    a torch and some oil. I shot some compressed air into the old well and saw that a leak had formed at the tip of the well. Upon closer inspection I noticed a few pinholes where a plug was soldered onto the tube. I took a long screwdriver and tapped the plug from behind a few times and it popped right out. It looks like the plug was poorly soldered onto the tube, causing the leak.









    lsheng
  • lsheng
    lsheng Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem as yours, and my unit is also ss-40. What is the part number you ordered? I can not find the same part, new part looks different and with a 3/4 adapter.
    https://shophtp.com/ecommerce/product/pmw-3senp-1/aquastat-immersion-well-12

    Thanks
  • StahlMaster
    StahlMaster Member Posts: 8
    That looks just like the one I installed. They now come with an adapter (which you will need). I just unscrewed the old one (3/4") and put pipe joint compound on the new one and screwed it in tight.
  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 1,292
    I have used never seaze to help slow or prevent this. Seems to be working fine to this day. Usually just coat the surfaces that need it.
    Good to see all is complete.
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