SuperStor SS-40 Aquastat Immersion Well LEAKING

StahlMaster

The Immersion Well is leaking on my SuperStor SS-40 indirect water heater. I'm looking for advice on getting this fixed. I know why it's leaking I just need to get it fixed. I live in DownRiver Michigan.

D

STEVEusaPA

Well if it's leaking because of a weld failure (typically), then you need a new SuperStor.
If it's just the threads, drain system, back out well, re-tape, re-install (which may or may not be possible with your tank).

StahlMaster

The company that makes the SuperStor does sell replacement wells so I'm guessing its not welded. The leak is coming out of the end of the tube where the aquastat goes in, not at the threaded end.

Jamie Hall

Seems to me like you sort of have answered your own question. If you know why it's leaking, then you also know where. There are exactly three choices: is it a repairable leak in the assembly? Then repair it. Is the assembly replaceable with less hassle than repair? Replace it. Is the assembly neither repairable or replaceable? Replace the tank.

Since we don't know where the leak is nor why, we really can't say much about how that specific leak could be repaired...

StahlMaster

It's leaking out of the end of the tube where the aquastat is connected. Drip, drip, drip.

HVACNUT

Keep in mind the well for the SS is stainless, not brass.

Grallert

Swap it out. Get everything ready tape threads of new well have it within reach. disconnect the control turn of the boiler. Cool the tank off by running cold through it, just cool enough so you don't get burned during the next step. shut off water supply. Loosen the leaking well to hand tight and drain tank from boiler drain until you can hear the suction at the well. you'll have developed a vacuum at that spot, enough to quickly swap out the wells with out having to drain the whole tank.

hot_rod

cut away the insulation first and make sure it is not the weld or thread.

The leak could be either the tank weld around the port, the thread connection, or a pin hole in the well itself.

If you pull the sensor out and water flow out of the well, it's the problem.

Most often wells fail, but welds and threads can leak also.

StahlMaster

Is there a product that will prevent corrosion in the well from the dissimilar metals? If so, where can I get it?

HomerJSmith

This is an HTP SuperStor Ultra 45 tank? These are very thin wall stainless tanks subject of collapse if a vacuum occurs in the tank.

Better to shut off the cold water supply to the tank and open several hot water tap in the house then drain the tank and replace the well using a good sealant. I don't recommend opening the pressure relief valve as you may end up replacing it because it may thereafter leak.

We use a heat transfer paste on the aquastat probe before reinstalling the aquastat. I'm not aware of any heat transfer paste the act as a dielectric, if you think that dissimilar metals may have caused the leak. It would be a new one on me.

lchmb

and the well's are usually tough to get lose. Use a big wrench...

HVACNUT

SS stainless tank should have a stainless well.

StahlMaster

However, the bulb for the aquastat is copper. Will that cause corrosion?

NY_Rob

It may not be shot, maybe just clean threads, retape and redope.
Reinstall and see what happens....

rickh

Better have a proper socket, breaker bar and persuader. The only time I had the same call I just grabbed a pipe wrench thinking no problem. Well there isn't a lot to grab and being factory installed it wasn't long before I was in trouble. Had to cut away a fair amount of the jacket in order to get enough bite on anything. Finally got it out but would never try it again without proper socket.

HomerJSmith

rickh says, "Better have a proper socket, breaker bar and persuader." I always have my wife do it, she's a pretty good persuader.

hot_rod

A stainless well with a stainless bushing would lessen any electrolysis between the metals.
Brass and lower grades of stainless are far apart on the series. The electrolyte (water) has a bit to do also. If your water is softened or has high TDS, it will accelerate electrolysis. Area effect can increase electrolysis corrosion also.

Possibly hotter water accelerates electrolysis? I know hotter water causes more minerals to precipitate in DHW tanks.

A good, easy read on dissimilar metals here.

A 6 point deep socket is a sure way to remove and install wells with the least amount of wrestling.

https://www.assda.asn.au/technical-info/technical-faqs/galvanicdissimilar-metal-corrosion

StahlMaster

I have the new well ordered along with a new aqustat and pipe compound. There is about three inches of well sticking out from the tank with plenty of access all around. I do have 6 point sockets along with 6 point box wrenches. I will snap a few photos of the install and post them here. Thanks for all the information. I am determined to keep my "HydroTherm" AM 100 and SuperStor tank running long after others have written them off as not worth fixing.

StahlMaster

Sorry for the delay. Installing the new aquastat and aquastat well went very "well" (no pun intended). I was able to use my large 12pt box wrench to remove the old one. The new on was smaller in diameter but had the sleeve to fit my bigger opening. In the photos you can see where the leak was showing up on the aquastat box. I removed the bulb from the well with
a torch and some oil. I shot some compressed air into the old well and saw that a leak had formed at the tip of the well. Upon closer inspection I noticed a few pinholes where a plug was soldered onto the tube. I took a long screwdriver and tapped the plug from behind a few times and it popped right out. It looks like the plug was poorly soldered onto the tube, causing the leak.

lsheng

I had the same problem as yours, and my unit is also ss-40. What is the part number you ordered? I can not find the same part, new part looks different and with a 3/4 adapter.
https://shophtp.com/ecommerce/product/pmw-3senp-1/aquastat-immersion-well-12

Thanks

StahlMaster

That looks just like the one I installed. They now come with an adapter (which you will need). I just unscrewed the old one (3/4") and put pipe joint compound on the new one and screwed it in tight.

Intplm.

I have used never seaze to help slow or prevent this. Seems to be working fine to this day. Usually just coat the surfaces that need it.
Good to see all is complete.