Peerless steam header height

dandub1960

So in the process of trying to determine the bare heat exchanger height for the series 63 (to see if i can slide it through a basement door without pivoting) i tallied up the header pipe dimensions allowing 2 1/2 inch guess at nozzle height over the main block. All adds up to 24 inches as expected.

But wait! Isn't that 24 inch height from NWL? Surely there is disengaging headspace from the NWL to top of the exchanger block? Seems their design puts the inside level of the header high by that amount? How much disengaging height is there? Any ideas?

ethicalpaul

I can't tell what you're asking but Peerless diagram says they want the bottom of the header to be at least 24" above the waterline.

EBEBRATT-Ed

The boiler height is 36 3/8" from the floor to the top of the jacket plus the vent connection which is about 1". And the vent connection is probably removeable.

If that answers ypur question.

mattmia2

you can take the jacket off if you are really tight for space moving it in and just move the raw ci block. if you don't have enough height for the header in the installed position you can do a drop header

109A_5

disengaging headspace ? Steam Chest height ? Subtract the length of the two nipples and the union from 24 Inches above the NWL (Normal Water Line), should get you in the ball park.

Why does this matter to you ?

pecmsg

Break down the piping.

Jamie Hall

The key dimension is from the normal steaming waterline in the boiler to the top vertical of the first risers from the boiler outlets. That needs to be at least 24 inches — but it can be more. After that — you can go higher. You go over laterally. You can bend over and use a drop header.

dandub1960

I'm planning to slide the bare exchanger block down a stairwell to my basement. Peerless doesn't seem to provide dimensions for the block without the jacket so I don't know how tall (or wide laying on its side) it is. What I do know from the diagram above is that the bottom of the header looks like 50 inches off the floor. So subtracting shoulder to shoulder dimensions for the piping gets me this (top elbow is to inside lip):

Better picture with cut-away shows what I'm calling the "nozzle" atop the block:

So by this calculation the top of the exchanger block less the raised nozzle is 26 inches which just happens to be the NWL which cannot be unless the block is either completely filled to the nozzles or Peerless has added in some additional height on this design. I guess I'll assume the latter. So if I had some idea how far the NWL actually is below the nozzle top I could infer the exchanger height. Or I suppose I can see when they deliver it.

I thought it odd that the diagram shows minimum but then gives a design that isn't.

ethicalpaul

I'm very confused. What is "nozzle"? Does your boiler have pipes on it already? Are you under the impression that the boiler comes with these pipes already on it? It doesn't.

If it's just the boiler I can go measure mine and tell you how tall it is, but unless you have a house built for very short people the boiler will be short enough to get down your stairs.

dandub1960

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1870278#Comment_1870278

Thanks Paul. What I'm calling the "nozzle" for lack of a better term is the cylindrical protrusions atop the exchanger block that contain the 3 inch tappings for steam off-take (visible in the cut-away diagram). Actually if you just measured yours (floor to nozzle top) that would be most appreciated. I forgot you had a series 63.

ethicalpaul

Ok if you mean the pipe(s) marked “2” in the diagram, those are pipe “nipples” added by the installer after the boiler is in position.

None of the pipes in that diagram come preinstalled

I will measure mine for you, one sec

109A_5

Are you adding the riser piping before the boiler is installed (set) into place where it is to go ? If you don't have the boiler yet it does not come with the pipe attached. Some boilers you can purchase the near boiler piping kit of the manufactures recommended piping. But in general the installer supplies and installs the pipe once the boiler is set in place.

dandub1960

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1870292#Comment_1870292

No, not expecting any attached piping at delivery. Just trying to judge what kind of wrangling we'll need to do to get it into the basement. Also given weather I am thinking maybe preinstalling the jacket and the near boiler piping in the adjacent space once the exchanger is upright might reduce the time spent without heat.

How do people think about reusing header piping? My current header contains a lot of 3 inch piping that the new header calls for. I just have no idea how hard it might be to dismantle or if installers generally just saw off the old one and chuck it? I'm sure piping below the waterline is pretty questionable.

ethicalpaul

Just FYI the 63 comes "pre-packaged" with the jacket and some accessories installed on the boiler which will be on a palette.

The 63 is 36-1/2" from floor to top of jacket

Regarding the header, if it's built right and you can attach to it OK I wouldn't hesitate to reuse it. The steam pipes and mains just don't rust out unless they have a sitting water issue.

dandub1960

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1870302#Comment_1870302

Well my existing header as it stands is not built right for the new boiler. It would need to be taken apart and reassembled. Not sure how hard that might be. Then again the old boiler isn't going to come apart and go away without some dismantling. Tho sawzall is always an option for pipe. I have two flange unions that ought to open up. Trying to stay away from the 100 year old original mains. But the NBP is "only" 38 years old and the gravity return reconversion i did is "only" 28 years old. I guess we can pound on the fittings a bit and see if they'll turn or not.

ethicalpaul

18” or 24” pipe wrench with a 4 foot cheater pipe makes even a weakling like me formidable or you can cut and crack a fitting

JUGHNE

How about pictures of the existing boiler and it's piping?

Floor to ceiling.

EBEBRATT-Ed

a

EdTheHeaterMan

@ethicalpaul   I believe @dandub1960 would like to know the measurement of the cast iron block from the floor to the top of the CI block. this way @dandub1960 can calculate if it will fit after they take the jacket apart and all the trim off. What is measurement X ?

I remember doing this for a boiler job that would not fit through the basement door. We took the entire boiler apart down to the block and were able to fit the block assembly in the basement door.

Since Peerless does not offer that dimension. @dandub1960 is trying to do the math from the piping diagram to subtract the pipe nipple sizes and union sizes, to back into the dimension.   You, Paul, can just measure for them by sliding a tape measure inside the jacket to see what the dimension is. 

mattmia2

if you are really tight on space you can usually order it with the block unassembled and move one section at a time in and assemble the block in place.

mattmich

Check my DIY thread for tons of 63-03 pictures, including of the naked block.

Click on my user name to find it.

mattmia2

btw, the tapping you are asking about is called the outlet.