Can I improve convection?

The previous owner put these cabinets over radiators in the main living spaces of our two unit building. I know that cabinets aren’t optimal but I’m keeping them a few reasons:
- underlying radiators need to be cleaned up and painted and I don’t want to do that now
- Tenants usually find the covers attractive
- They provide a nice shelf
I want to increase convection without drilling the tops. My idea right now is to remove the hinge pins and raise the lids up on blocks of wood so there’s a 1 inch gap all around. Was thinking I’d glue little blocks in the four corners. They don’t look as nice this way but hoping to reduce my gas bills a bit!
I just wanted to see what you all think about this solution? Any other modifications I should consider?
Comments
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I’ve been thinking about this design a bit but I worry about covering that much of the front grill. Would it actually increase convection enough to warrant blocking radiation?
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I think there is a trade off with covers? You limit the heat emitted by radiation when you cover a portion of the radiator surface. Maybe the covers increase convection? If you look at copper fin tube the cover design allows cooler air in the bottom, the front cover forces air currents across the fins and warmed air comes out the top damper.
With an expanded metal cover like that I don't think you are getting the best convection output? The drawing you have indicates that also. It would be easy enough to take a piece of cardboard and cover the middle portion and see how it changes.
If more heat output is the goal, I wonder that removing those covers would provide that? The radiant heat transfer is a nicer "feeling" heat in my mind. Convection tends to move dust along with heat :)
Seems like a shelf could be built without needing the enclosure. Clean the radiator until you can repaint it?
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
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This sunroom tends to be a little colder because of all the windows but honestly not by much. The house is mostly warm and well balanced. My main goal is to get things up to temperature faster hoping to reduce boiler runtimes.
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Um. "Up to temperature faster"? This implies you are using a setback? Whether that is true or not, you can only raise the temperature as fast as the boiler can supply heat and the radiation emit the heat. If the boiler isn't cycling while you are getting things up to temperature, just increasing the radiation isn't going to make a difference. The boiler — the engine, if you will — is giving you all it's got.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
I'm not sure that the Math adds up. The heat that is not emitted as a result of the covers returns to the boiler. That makes the return water a little warmer, so the boiler reaches the limit temperature a minute sooner. As a result the burner stops and the circulator pump keeps running to dissipate that “free” heat so the boiler temperature can drop. Your idea that the thermostat will take longer to satisfy with the covers on the radiators may be correct but it does not necessarily mean that the burner is running the entire time that thermostat is calling for heat. The burner may be off by the limit switch for more time as a result of the covers. So the net result may or may not save you on your gas bill. If it does it will not be enough to notice in dollars, maybe only in pennies.
And as we all know a penny costs 2 cents to make so you may actually be spending more money with a couple of cents in lower usage.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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Effectively, the covers make the radiators smaller, improving convection would make them bigger. Changing the size of the radiators doesn't affect system efficiency. The only reason to do it would be if the radiators are undersized with the covers and can't maintain temperature on the coldest days.
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I'd vote to remove the cover altogether! And if you want, install a shelf above the radiator for storage.
Covers have two purposes in my opinion. To keep kids from touching hot radiators and to dampen/disperse the heat out of the radiator.
You'll feel the heat radiating from it faster but it isn't going to add any additional btu's to the room. It might just "feel" hotter, quicker.
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Women like to use radiator covers…Guys would prefer to paint them :)
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in my house the radiator by the stairs going up, when at single digits and the NE Wind blows. that top cover gets removed and it makes the difference on the 2nd floor
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I think I’m more confused than when I started 😂 I may just have to experiment a bit. I’ve read all range of opinions on this topic on the forum. Many claiming that they kill efficiency, others saying they have no effect at all, most saying get rid of them (why if there’s minimal effect beyond aesthetics?).
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it’s clear when I tape a piece of paper near the gap, comparing the original and modified version, the modified is moving much more air.
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Adjusting the inside humidity would improve the comfort in the home …. Bowls of water sitting on the top adds moisture during the winter months …
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these covers used to have trays for that. With them all full it only increased the humidity about 5% unfortunately
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5% more humid is better than 5% dryer air. How long did it take to evaporate that water?
As far as why some people decided to cover the radiators is concerned, you need to understand why most radiators are oversized in the first place.. Even though the story is about steam boilers, the same holds true for oversized gravity hot water radiators. After the health scare issues were over, the Heating Industry still used these oversized specifications for a lot of years after. Kind of like seeing some people still wearing face masks while alone driving their car 4 years after Covid 19.
Now in the 1940s and 1950s the big stink about "Fresh Air Movement" was over and we had all these oversized heaters and radiators and the government published studies about the effect of radiator covers and what color to paint radiators in order to reduce the output of oversized radiators in many homes and apartments. There are many apartments today with steam radiators that make the room too hot. The only recourse for the tenant is to open the window in order to make the room a little more bearable.
If your home is comfortable and balanced with the covers in place, then adjusting that balance is not going to get you any measurable savings on the gas usage, but it may end up setting your comfort out of balance. So don't do anything that is so permanent that you can not reverse it to get yourself back to the way things are now.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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if anyone’s interested, today I tested two heating cycles: one with the covers open about 2” similar to the photo, another with them closed as normal. With them open the boiler ran for almost exactly 30 min and with them closed it ran for right around 35 min. Comfortable levels were the same. Seems like it I could see decent savings over the course of a season. It’s around 5 degrees here so the pipes were hot for both cycles.
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or do the extra BTUs mean the building will stay warm longer and there will be more time between cycles?
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the building and the temperature around it is what dictates the heating cost. Changing that radiator configuration will probably do little to nothing to save fuel costs.
Look for places to upgrade the building itself. Insulation, weatherstrip, window shades.
Have an energy audit done to find leaks in the building, an infrared camera scan can show a lot of heat loss areas.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream5 -
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I really appreciate the feedback everybody. I’ll probably not move forward with this as it seems like the overwhelming opinion is that it’s not worth it 🫡
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I have been reading other posts over the years that speak to the fact that most radiators are oversized and that rooms tend to have more radiation than required. This is offset by the radiators rarely ever heating fulling across because the thermostat is satrisfied.
In your case, you have effectively decrease the "effective" size of your radiators a bit. Now much, I don't really know but I would guess about 10% give or take. Remember that the reduced output form the radiator is reflected in reduced steam condenstion and therefore a reduced load on the boiler. Personally, I like radiators better than radiator covers and when we bought the house we set 16 relatively new covers out by the curb. But, that was only because of a matter of taste. Unless your covers so greatly diminish the output of your radiator I would not spend any time worrying about it. Instead, as others of said, focus on things that produce a measureable effect. Weather stripping, storm windows, weatherstripping you wooden windows if you still have them, vinyl replacements are a bad return on investment given their short life and nonreparable nature. Attic insulation, basement foundation cracks, and so forth.Dave in Quad Cities, America
Weil-McLain 680 with Riello 2-stage burner, December 2012. Firing rate=375MBH Low, 690MBH Hi.
System = Early Dunham 2-pipe Vacuo-Vapor (inlet and outlet both at bottom of radiators) Traps are Dunham #2 rebuilt w. Barnes-Jones Cage Units, Dunham-Bush 1E, Mepco 1E, and Armstrong TS-2. All valves haveTunstall orifices sized at 8 oz.
Current connected load EDR= 1,259 sq ft, Original system EDR = 2,100 sq ft Vaporstat, 13 oz cutout, 4 oz cutin - Temp. control Tekmar 279.
http://grandviewdavenport.com1 -
This page is from a 1930's edition of Architectural Graphic Standards, indicating the reduction in performance for each configuration of radiator enclosure. Not clear how they came up with these numbers, but for what it's worth:
Homeowner in Middletown, PA
1936 house with 1996 Burnham V74 oil-fired 1-pipe system
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I was going to say. This is all in Dan's Every Darn Radiator book.
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There are differences in the numbers between what is shown in the HeatingHelp link vs Dan's E.D.R vs Architectural Graphics Standards but all agree that best for your purpose of increasing edr is the configuration with barrier in front of the radiator with no top. With a top best is with holes in the top and the barrier in front. If no holes in top raise the top with the barrier still in the front and effect will be a wash.
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I’ve never seen a cover with the barrier front. Does anyone have photos or examples irl? I’m just curious about a real implementation.
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