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Bevel steam trap

Tommi68
Tommi68 Member Posts: 46
Hi Steam Team,
Has anyone seen these traps before? It appears to be a bevel configuration trap, in a right angle piping. This is an end of line trap, after the last longitudinal branch on a 1916, 2-pipe, vacuum return system. Infrared imaging shows it being 214’ on inlet and outlet, assuming a failed open trap. 

With the ball valve for isolation, I am considering it is not original to the line. 

It is installed through a small hatch, in a flor in the Women’s locker room. I would like to return armed with sufficient parts to change it, as access is only 10pm-6am each day. 

What options are there for a repair kit or replacement trap?

thom

Comments

  • dko
    dko Member Posts: 668
    Seems to be some raised lettering on the other side of the valve body. Would have been helpful to see.

    But looks unique enough that someone who has encountered or seen it before will be able to identify it.
  • Tommi68
    Tommi68 Member Posts: 46
    Sadly my phone died after this pic. I will be sending a colleague in to take additional pictures.

    My initial concern was that the trap was bent by the piping not being supported adequately, but it does look to be solid.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,852
    Might be easier to replace it with a normal radiator trap...
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    GrallertMad Dog_2
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,380

    Might be easier to replace it with a normal radiator trap...

    If possible, since that's on the end of a steam main, I'd use an F&T trap. Also, those bushings in the run of the tee before the pipe turns down to the trap are causing a water pocket, which would cause banging. That needs to be corrected when the trap is replaced.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    Tommi68Ironman
  • Tommi68
    Tommi68 Member Posts: 46
    I agree, I missed the concentric bushing until I reviewed the pictures. Most interesting in considering this, this is in an area that does not receive steam... the floor and wall cavity where the pipes exist are warm-to-hot, but the steam does not reach the radiators above. This situation has been so long standing that no-one even asks why there is no heat. Most of our original infrastructure is under concrete or behind brick in the walls.

    This immediate area has a 1980s renovation, several abandoned pipes and very little heat.
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,380
    Tommi68 said:

    I agree, I missed the concentric bushing until I reviewed the pictures. Most interesting in considering this, this is in an area that does not receive steam... the floor and wall cavity where the pipes exist are warm-to-hot, but the steam does not reach the radiators above. This situation has been so long standing that no-one even asks why there is no heat. Most of our original infrastructure is under concrete or behind brick in the walls.

    This immediate area has a 1980s renovation, several abandoned pipes and very little heat.

    You need a Steam Guy. Where are you located? We might know someone.......
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Tommi68
    Tommi68 Member Posts: 46
    I am in Toronto, ON. 

    The trap is a Bestobell GMR3
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,477
    Looks like a reducing tee so changing the bushings isn't doing much. An F&T may be a better choice.
    Tommi68
  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 2,196
    @Tommi68

    I agree with much of the above.
    Trying to repair this trap, its location and the angle it is located, not to mention in time you are allowed to do the job is the biggest problem.
    Replace it as @Jamie Hall suggests above.
    Tommi68
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,930
    Could the trapped condensate from the bushings be the emitter not heating problem?
    Tommi68
  • Tommi68
    Tommi68 Member Posts: 46
    Some issues are at play, the pipe seems to sag in places along its run. Some dips and the concentric bushings will need to be addressed. And every other pipe in the building uses F&T at the end of line. I’ll be contacting our mechanical contractor for the rework, they will send a good plumber so I will advocate to replace the bushings for a nipple and reducing coupling. 

    I wasn’t looking for the no heat issue; no one even thinks about this anymore, that’s just how it is. I was doing different work and had a thought to look under some access hatches that I don’t look in more than once each decade. I have been searching for the EOL and drip legs on the 7 steam mains since October and found almost a dozen that have missed any service or trap inspection. 
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,550
    edited February 24
    Tommi68 said:
    Some issues are at play, the pipe seems to sag in places along its run. Some dips and the concentric bushings will need to be addressed. And every other pipe in the building uses F&T at the end of line. I’ll be contacting our mechanical contractor for the rework, they will send a good plumber so I will advocate to replace the bushings for a nipple and reducing coupling. 

    I wasn’t looking for the no heat issue; no one even thinks about this anymore, that’s just how it is. I was doing different work and had a thought to look under some access hatches that I don’t look in more than once each decade. I have been searching for the EOL and drip legs on the 7 steam mains since October and found almost a dozen that have missed any service or trap inspection. 
    You need a reducing ell, not a reducing coupling. The reduction has to take place in the vertical section or else you would need an eccentric coupling which may be difficult to find.

    I don’t know if I’d want the job of repiping that. A lot of floor would have to come up.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Tommi68
    Tommi68 Member Posts: 46
    You need a reducing ell, not a reducing coupling. The reduction has to take place in the vertical section or else you would need an eccentric coupling which may be difficult to find.
    Nomenclature question: I presume the ‘reducing ell’ is a reducing 90’elbow. 
  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 774
    yes
    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager,teacher and dog walker
    Tommi68Ironman