Replace basement oil tank fill pipe
The fill pipe for my basement oil tank leaks/weeps such that the pipe itself gets slick/shiny, as does the side of the tank. Never get any actual spillage on the floor. I clean the pipe and tank with Simple Green after every delivery. Even after I clean it, it gets slick and shiny with oil again even without a subsequent delivery. I'm guessing residual oil in the pipe continues to seep out for weeks. My oil company knows I have a weep and they "pump slow".
Is there a way to only change the fill pipe? My home was built in 1960 and has the original boiler...the tank looks original too but seems to be fine. I may or may not move soon, so wondering if it is possible to just change the piping. And what would a reasonable cost be? I'm in the northeast, Long Island to be exact.
My main concern is VOCs, etc. in the home due to the oil seepage. Kids are in the basement (unfinished) right near the system often to play drums, etc. I don't really SMELL much of anything, but it still bothers me.
Thanks so much!
Comments
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It is not dangerous for the kids unless they are eating from the leak.
I have seen many exactly as you describe. Because it is, to some, of little consequence this type of leak is often left alone.
Needing new pipes probably isn't necessary.
What can be done is removing the pipes at each joint up to the leak and refastening with a good pipe thread compound.0 -
Or, if you can, switch to gas.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting
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It most likely can be unscrewed and re-doped, re-installed. I'd leave that job up to your oil company as if it actually leaked after you did the work, you may be on the hook for clean up.
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Thanks guys, big help! Sounds simple.0
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One other question. I'm guessing the oil can weep a bit "against gravity"? The horizontal section of the pipe, before any joints, gets wet with oil too. I don't see any obvious holes in the bottom of that horizontal piece.1
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@CHomes
Shouldn't be any holes in the oil pipe. With oil in it they cant rust on the inside so they last forever. Somebody was probably just sloppy on the install.0 -
OK, so I have to ask, because the house that I bought has a replacement oil tank, and these were used to avoid messing with the pipes going through the concrete foundation because there was no way to unscrew a joint.
Are these legal to use?
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No, not at all. That being said, I’ve seen them on tanks 20+ years old and not leaking.MikeAmann said:OK, so I have to ask, because the house that I bought has a replacement oil tank, and these were used to avoid messing with the pipes going through the concrete foundation because there was no way to unscrew a joint.
Are these legal to use?
There’s always a way to unscrew a pipe. Plus most jurisdictions will now allow installers to use MegaPress.
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Mega Press?0
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Yes, ProPress's big brother.
The main difference is that ProPress jaws are intended for pressing copper, while MegaPress jaws are for pressing steel and black iron.0 -
I think with Mega Press you have to use the "gas" gaskets. Not positive about that though.
If you can't unscrew the pipe because it is in concrete cut it off and thread it.
MA used to allow copper but it had to be brazed not soldered. I guess if you get it real hot it won't explode or cause a fire
Don't know what NFPA says about that never looked as I always thought it was a dumb idea.0 -
Sealing elements
Straight heating oil (unofficially from Viega up to 20% bio) can be MegaPress with the FKM (white dot) sealing element or MegaPress G with the HNBR sealing element (yellow dot). Never green dot EPDM
Bio fuels, MegaPress with FKM sealing element. You can also use Stainless 316 with FKM sealing element but that’s quite pricey.
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Hey folks....
I have my heating oil company coming Wednesday to look at my weeping fill pipe and make a recommendation.
Having them look at it first versus and independent company just so at least they can't point the finger if anything gets botched, like one member suggested. But I'll see what they say.
My house was built in 1960. Original boiler and I assume an original tank (basement). The previous owner painted things like the oil tank and cast iron sewer line in the famous battleship gray. It's hard for me to judge the tank condition as it is painted. No leaks though other than the weeping fill pipe. I wouldn't be surprised if the company tries to push a whole new oil tank on me.
I will be deciding within the next year if I will sell this house and move on, or decide to stay longer term. I want things to be safe but don't want to go overboard here. On the other hand, is it a waste to do a new fill pipe if I may need a new tank in 5 years?
Thanks for any opinions! I'm pretty handy and my family in the generation before me built 600 homes, so I do know a lot - but details regarding oil tanks and the like are new to me. Appreciate it!!0 -
64 year old tank I think I would bite the bullet and replace the tank. The tank may be fine right now but why take the chance? If you fix the fill that will be sone again when the tank is replaced in the future. Why pay twice?0
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I guess it comes down to if the repair of the fill pipe is cheap or expensive. If it is cheap and I end up leaving in a year, then the new tank is wasted money. If the fill pipe fix is expensive and I end up staying and replacing the whole tank in a few years, then then fill pipe was wasted money.EBEBRATT-Ed said:64 year old tank I think I would bite the bullet and replace the tank. The tank may be fine right now but why take the chance? If you fix the fill that will be sone again when the tank is replaced in the future. Why pay twice?
Any signs to look for on the tank as a clue it is worn out? Or just that it is potentially 64 years old is enough reason even if it looks good?0 -
Why take the chance of loosing a sale. Replace the tank and fill vent piping.0
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@CHomes , do you have natural gas service? If so, your home will see much more easily with gas heat. If you decide to stay, you won't have to worry about running out of oil. Just sayin'...........All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
I'm on Long Island and total piece of crap homes are selling in 3 days for 50k over asking. 0
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Not a professional just homeowner who if buying your home would want an inspection of the tank establishing age if possible. Do you need inspections of mechanicals to sell. These issues may make it prudent to replace tank as a selling point. A tank leak in the basement can be more than an inconvience. Ask me how I know.0
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STEVEusaPA said:
No, not at all.MikeAmann said:OK, so I have to ask, because the house that I bought has a replacement oil tank, and these were used to avoid messing with the pipes going through the concrete foundation because there was no way to unscrew a joint.
Are these legal to use?
Everywhere? I've seen homes with the dresser couplings pass inspection?
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To follow up....
I ended up having the tank replaced. Granby Ecoguard with the double wall bottom.
Question -
This is in my unfinished basement. The tank sits on the same type of 4 supports as the old tank (which they cut away even with the floor).
The 4 supports for the old tank were cemented into the floor. The new ones just rest on the floor, the weight of the tank keeps it in place. The tank seems stable, but I could rock it tiny bit if I push it. Should this have been cemented in? The installers say this is how they do it. I'm wondering if during fill ups the tank will move every so slightly and over time weaken the fill pipe joints?
What is customary?
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Kind of a toss-up. Cement them in, it's guaranteed they'll rust and fail sooner or later. Not cement them in, it'll wiggle a little. I'd not cement them.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
It's fine the way it is. No cement
If the floor is uneven and the tank really rocks, they should have adjusted the legs by tightening or loosening a leg to make it more stable.
Or put a shim under one leg. A 4" square metal electrical box cover make a good shim.
The oil line to the burner should be a coated oil line, usually orange colored (it maybe I can't tell from the picture) and it should be protected with cement.
Looks like they did a decent job other than that.
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It doesn't rock at all. It feels pretty firm. If I intentionally push on it, it wiggles just enough that I can see the fill pipes moving a teensy bit. Just wondering if it will wiggle at all when filling.
The line to the burner is copper that is coated in some orange plastic. It is not embedded in concrete however. They left the old line embedded in the concrete and crimped the ends.
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There is a reason for embedding the oil feed line: it's so no one can trip over it or run a heavy hand truck or whatever into it. It really should be done where it crosses any space that folks are liable to walk…
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
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Thanks guys…yea my oil feed line just runs along my basement wall, straight run about 15 feet...sounds sounds like it's ok it is exposed and not covered in concrete.
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The oil line needs to be protected. Buy a bag of mortar mix and trowel it on at a 45 degree angle.
Think about the reason it needs to be protected. As @Jamie Hall mentioned someone trips over it, drops something on it whatever and you end up with a cellar full of oil.
Your insurance company will not be happy. It is required by code to be protected.
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Should I push the company I paid to do the install to protect it with mortar? I don't mind doing it myself, but if I paid for an install it should be to code.
I'd ideally like to chisel the old one out too, if not only for cosmetics.
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With the old line just take a cold chisel and cut it off even with the floor. If you want it better than that chisel down a couple of inches and cut it off. Fill with the mortar you used on the oil line.
You could call the installer and tell them. Don't know if it is worth it for the price of a bag of mortar.
Since they installed a new oil line they should have known to protect it.
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Looks like the old line doesn't go beneath the floor...it's just up against the wall then a 45 degree bed of mortar over it. Probably pretty easy to chisel out like you said. That's what they did up near the boiler and the tank.
Maybe I'll give it a shot - thanks!
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Is that galvanized pipe or just painted silver?
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Galvanized.
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Just want to check... galvanized steel is fine? Better/worse than the black iron pipes?
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Galvanized is fine as far as I know.
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