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Boiler LWC activates quickly

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AMMY
AMMY Member Posts: 19
Hello Steam Forum,

I have a Burnham model SIN5LNC-LE2.
When boilers starts, it only takes 10 minutes for the water level to reduce and activate the Low Water Cutt-off. You can see the water in the site glass going down pretty fast. However, the radiators don’t get hot until the water feeder fills again another two times which causes the boiler to be overfilled (per the site glass) when the water returns.

I was wondering if the boiler is undersized or heating too fast? Or does anyone have an idea why this happens?

I know that the near boiler piping is not right (according to forum, see image) and I do not have any vents on the mains (lots of air from radiators.

Also, any steam heat experts you recommend in Brooklyn to correct the near boiler piping.

Thanks





mattmia2

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,383
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    If the water level drops, it's because water is getting out into the system or condensate isn't returning. How does condensate get back to the boiler? You mention radiator vents, so I am assuming one pipe steam. I hope that the steam mains slope away from the boiler (parallel flow) and that at the ends they drop down to a wet return? Which comes back to the boiler? If so, the problem most likely is that that wet return or returns is partly clogged and the condensate is simply slow coming back. However, if the mains slope the other way -- back to the boiler -- there must be drips near the boiler for the water to get back to the boiler. It's never going to make it with that near boiler piping.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 1,975
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    There are lots of possibilities. Your boiler piping is horrible and definitely a major contributing factor. In addition you probably need a good boiler cleaning and or skimming. Second thing is just a guess. First thing is absolute and certain. 
    mattmia2
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 5,708
    edited January 10
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    It would take way more than 10 minutes for slow condensate to be the prime suspect, and it wouldn't go down fast, as reported, once it started.

    Especially with that headerless piping job.

    But if your water is good, it might work...is your water good?
    NJ Steam Homeowner. See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el
  • AMMY
    AMMY Member Posts: 19
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    Jamie, when I de-activated the auto feeder, the water level comes back to the original level the boiler started at prior to heating. so I do not think I’m losing water. I did this to keep the boiler from overfilling. However, when using manual fill, the boiler cycles off because the water level is low in 10 minutes. So it doesn’t kick back on until the water fill back to original level, then it repeats this cycle. 

    The boiler is not surging as I got it serviced last year but barely use it because this issue (I have mini splits is every room of the house thankfully). However, the boiler is better at heating the entire house.

    I am not sure what the “water good” means, but the water is clean as I did drain the boiler twice.

    i really need a steam heat guy because the plumbers in NYC do not give you much help on these issues. The guys who service the boiler see no issue with the piping, but I have done enough research to know it is wrong.

    Thanks
  • neilc
    neilc Member Posts: 2,705
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    Ammy, your last sentence above,
    google your boiler manual and download it,
    there will be a piping page or 2,
    read, then weep,
    known to beat dead horses
  • AMMY
    AMMY Member Posts: 19
    edited January 11
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    Neilc,

    I have it.
    Are you implying it's correct? I've had some of the well known steam guys on the forum tell me it's not correct.
    Just making sure I understand your comment correctly.

  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,479
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    Adding all that water will shorten the life of your boiler considerably. Repiping is expensive but not as much as a new boiler.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
    pecmsg
  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 1,975
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    AMMY said:
    Neilc,

    I have it.
    Are you implying it's correct? I've had some of the well known steam guys on the forum tell me it's not correct.
    Just making sure I understand your comment correctly.

    To the contrary. He is trying to tell you that your boiler piping is horrible
    AMMYmattmia2
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 5,708
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    The boiler is not surging


    how do you know? It looks like it's surging to me, if you see the waterline drop quickly during a call for heat. There's nowhere else the water could be going.

    I am not sure what the “water good” means, but the water is clean as I did drain the boiler twice.


    It could still have oils floating on it. Skimming is how you would remove those and be sure it's clean.
    NJ Steam Homeowner. See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el
    AMMY
  • neilc
    neilc Member Posts: 2,705
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    AMMY said:

    Neilc,

    I have it.
    Are you implying it's correct? I've had some of the well known steam guys on the forum tell me it's not correct.
    Just making sure I understand your comment correctly.

    weep ?

    No, sorry, you misunderstand my comment
    the picture in the 1st post is no way piped correct,
    not even close to matching the manual,
    your most likely producing wet steam,

    can we see the other side of the boiler, show your sightglass, and pressuretrol,
    what pressure is the boiler running up to ?
    known to beat dead horses
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,707
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    There are lots of possibilities. Your boiler piping is horrible and definitely a major contributing factor. In addition you probably need a good boiler cleaning and or skimming. Second thing is just a guess. First thing is absolute and certain. 

    The fact that the water leaves the boiler before anything starts heating tells you that it is throwing liquid water up in to the system because of the incorrect near boiler piping and possibly because of oil or "conditioners" in the water.(there is a small but very unlikely possibility that it is pushing the water back in to the return)

    Since I don't see a connection to the skim port on your boiler it very likely still has the oil from manufacturing and installation trapped in it.