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Nest to New Yorker heater

Hello all, I have been getting N260 code however everything is working.
right now i have the power connector installed and wired per sketch.
the New Yorker manual shows the thermostat wiring to blue and yellow.
the LWCO switch wired to blue and white. any help would be appreciated. thanks,, ed

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,298
    The Nest probably will not work with the power connector....at least not reliably. You need a big enough transformer and a relay to make operation reliable.

    See a drawing attached
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,242
    Can you post the wiring diagram of the New Yorker? If it's a Fan Center Control, G is usually the landing point from W or an end switch. 
    The code is from the boiler or the Nest?
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,161
    edited December 2023
    Your New Yorker Boiler may be one of hundreds of different models starting in 1882 'til now, from coal to oil to gas fired to hot water to steam... and each one is wired a little differently. Can you post the wiring diagram that is on one of the doors on your heater or in the installation manual. If you don't have them, the model number will help.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,600
    All of the above. Plus what I think is an obvious comment. The Nest power supply needs to be supplying power (R and C) to the Nest. The New Yorker probably only needs R and W. I'm puzzled by the Nest power supply supplying power to the New Yorker.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,161
    edited December 2023
    Without a response from @edmartin I am going to make some assumptions
    1. The thermostat wire only has 2 conductors in the wall behind the thermostat location to the boiler room.
    2. The NEST power converter is used to connect a Common from the heating equipment along with a R and a W to operate the boiler circulator/burner control
    3. The wiring diagram provided by @edmartin with the R Y G W B terminals is probably a control like this
    4. The wiring diagram for a typical hot water system that used that control is very close to this The shaded green area is the transformer/relay control shown above:
    5. So I would think the his wiring diagram should work properly, but since it is not, perhaps the R and W is reversed from the boiler to the power connector or from the power converter to the thermostat. Since there is a C or Com wire involved, the R and W must be properly connected, unlike the way it does NOT matter when a C or Com is not used.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,161
    So to follow up, the New Yorker has a R and C on a transformer somewhere and @edmartin needs to determine which of the T T wires or terminals or R W Y G B is common or C or COM from the transformer of the NewYorker, then connect the NESY converter properly to that transformer and equavilent of the Thermostat W on the New Yorker boiler control.



    Then connect the R and W on the thermostat to the NEST converter properly. R to R and W to W. Then it should work. but to get it to work you will need to set it up in the google Nest App on your smart phone or tablet.

    The NEST will sense only the R and the W connections and you will need to program it based on that. If you can not get to the proper programing based on that you will need to talk to NEST support

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    ethicalpaul
  • edmartin
    edmartin Member Posts: 25
    thank you all for helping, here is the diagram for furnace. i tried at first using connecting the blue and yellow from furnace to the red and white at thermostat but that would not work because directions say i need a common wire. i thought the common wire would be the blue??

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,161
    edited December 2023
    OK, this is going to be very easy, if you follow these instructions.
    Since the diagram does not tell you what wire on the 24 volt transformer is R and which one is C or COM you will need to do some investigating with a Multi Meter that can measure 24 volts. If you alligator clamp jumpers to hold the meter wires in place it will be easier.

    With the power on and the thermostat disconnected you can find the R and the C of the transformer

    1. It is a known fact that the terminal on the gas valve marked PV/MV is connected to C on the 24 volt transformer, so we start there. Place one of the meter leads on the PV/MV terminal on the gas valve.
    2. The other meter lead goes to the pink wire on the transformer. You can stick the point of the lead into the back of the molex plug (P1) indicated by the number 2 on the diagram. If your meter reads 24 (23 to 27) volts then the Pink wire is R. That leaves the brown wire to be C

    3. If the meter does not read 24 volts, then you will place the lead on the brown wire by inserting into the back of the brown wire indicated by the 1 on the diagram. If you get 24 volts then the brown is the R and the pink is the C
    4. If you don't get a reading on either then your meter lead is too thick and you may need to push harder or use a thin metal paper clip connected to the meter lead to put the back of the plug.

    Once you have determined what is R and what is C on the transformer you can then go to the thermostat plug (P3) on the boiler control

    5. With the transformer now identified place the lead that is on the gas valve onto the (P3) molex plug where the white wire is connected indicated by 4 on the diagram. I am pretty sure that is the C terminal at that plug. By leaving the other lead on the (P1) plug R wire, you should read 24 v on the meter.
    Now that you have verified that the White wire on (P3) is common, you can determine what wire is R at the thermostat connection

    6. Place the lead from (P1) R wire on the Blue wire at the (P3) molex plug indicated by 1. This must be done with the thermostat disconnected, or you may get 24 volts on both 1 and 2 on the (P3) plug
    you should read 24 volts. Then the Blue on 1 is R and the Yellow on 2 is W

    Let me know if you have followed this instruction. I wish i could tell you for certain that 1 is R, 2 is W and, 4 is C on the (P3) molex plug, but without a meter and the test i described above, I can not be certain.

    LASTLY. How many conductors are in the wire that is in the wall behind the thermostat? 2 or more than 2?



    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • edmartin
    edmartin Member Posts: 25
    Thanks, I have 2 wires at the thermostat but possibly a third wire is cut short within the insulation.
  • edmartin
    edmartin Member Posts: 25
    this may tell us more

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,161
    If the test above shows that Pink wire on P1 plug is R and that Blue wire on P3 is also R then this diagram is all you need to connect the thermsotat if you have 3 conductors to the thermostat.

    If you only have 2 conductor wire to the wall behind the thermostat then you will use the Nest Converter as follows.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • edmartin
    edmartin Member Posts: 25
    from this i get the common is the white. and the thermostat is blue and yellow on the heater
    so on the power adapter i would put red to blue(1), white to yellow(2) and c to white(4)
    does that seem right or do i need more testing
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,161
    This sounds correct but I can not be 100% sure

    How many conductors are in the wire that goes up to the thermostat?

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,161
    edmartin said:

    Thanks, I have 2 wires at the thermostat but possibly a third wire is cut short within the insulation.

    Then if you have a third wire and there is enough of it to connect t the Nest, then you do not need the power converter.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • edmartin
    edmartin Member Posts: 25
    when the nest setup asks for the color of wires do i use the colors on the system (blue and yellow and possibly white)?
    or the colors of the wires used in the wall?
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,600
    edmartin said:

    when the nest setup asks for the color of wires do i use the colors on the system (blue and yellow and possibly white)?
    or the colors of the wires used in the wall?

    not necessaril either one -- electricity is colourblind. Use the wire which does what is needed.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    Ironman
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,161
    Electric is colorblind. You need to determine what wire is R on the transformer. In your situation after you tested everything as I mentioned above you may find that the Blue Wire on the P3 plug is R for the thermostat.
    After testing you may find that the yellow wire from P3 is the W for the thermostat.
    After testing you may find out that the white wire from P3 is the C to the thermostat.

    If you are not able to test the wiring as i mentioned above, then you have two choices.
    1. Hope my guess is correct and connect according to my diagram.
    2. Call a Nest Pro contractor to connect your thermostat.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • edmartin
    edmartin Member Posts: 25
    Thank you to all. Went with the power adapter wiring ignoring the color matching.
    hope this helps others and thank you all again.
    Ed
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,161
    edmartin said:

    Thank you to all. Went with the power adapter wiring ignoring the color matching.
    hope this helps others and thank you all again.
    Ed

    So, I guess we will never know if the Pink wire is equal to R on your transformer and if the Blue wire on the P3 plug is equal to R, since you have decided the "ignore the color matching"

    How is that supposed to help?

    But if you tell us that you connected the Nest thermostat R to the Blue wire on the P3 plug, that will help.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • edmartin
    edmartin Member Posts: 25
    Thought the ladder diagram showed.

    white(4) appears to be 24v

    had no meter but i will do the testing to confirm and help
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,242
    I know you're past that point but there was no way to run a new wire and forget about the power connector?
  • edmartin
    edmartin Member Posts: 25
    the wiring was this: wire from the heater had 3 conductors (red,White,Green) wire at the thermostat had 2 conductors (red, white). a foot back into the wall there is a heatshrink repair that changes the wire cables from three wire to two wire. I used the two wires at the thermostat because i had the power controller.
  • edmartin
    edmartin Member Posts: 25
    finally had time to meter the pins as requested:
    however could not get a connection on the gas valve connector.
    will need to return and splice the wire to get connection.
    for now i have
    TSTAT connector 1 - 4 = 26.6v
    P1(2) - TSTAT 4 = 26.6v
    P1(1) - P4(6) = 0v while not calling for heat