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pre-heating with electric tankless
IZZY
Member Posts: 59
in Gas Heating
Sometimes I hear an idea an immediately shut it down as ridiculous, but after a little thought realize that maybe not so much...My mother's house has an old, but totally functional, natural gas boiler for a single pump, 3 zone hot water heating system (baseboard)- standard builder's special for where she lives. She recently put in a solar electric system which produces way more electricity than she needs, especially in the winter when the central air is not used.
So here's the question, could an electric tankless water heater be cut into the 1" return before the water returns to the boiler to use less gas for heating the return water? Obviously this would be beneficial only on start up, since once the water hits 190 and the delta T is around 20 degrees, it would basically be passing through the tankless without gaining much, and the electricity is basically free anyway.
The one issue I can think of is potential condensation from short cycling of the burner.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
So here's the question, could an electric tankless water heater be cut into the 1" return before the water returns to the boiler to use less gas for heating the return water? Obviously this would be beneficial only on start up, since once the water hits 190 and the delta T is around 20 degrees, it would basically be passing through the tankless without gaining much, and the electricity is basically free anyway.
The one issue I can think of is potential condensation from short cycling of the burner.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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Comments
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Well, the most obvious questions are first, does she really have a surplus of solar electgricity? Some programs use net metering and average over a year, so that a surplus in, say, the winter, is used to offset an excess demand in, say, the summer. That's worth checking.
Second, how much power does the array generate in full sun (obviously it doesn't generate any on cloudy days or at night) and how is that accounted for in the electricity use/payment scheme? Again, net metering?
Related to the second, what would the power demand of your tankless be vs. the output of the array? Nist tankless heaters use a lot of power, Even a fairly small one may use upwards of 30 KW. How does that compare with her array power?Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
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Unconventional, but if it’s truly being otherwise unused, do it! You could also just use an electric baseboard.@Jamie Hall as a supplementary system, it can be small. 30kw is not a helpful size here.0
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thanks guys for the quick responses, much appreciated 👍🏻0
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A tankless WH has a ridiculously high pressure drop/resistance to flow, so piping it in series would destroy the flow in the rest of the system. Do not do that. Perhaps something like an electric boiler may be of assistance, with minimal pressure drop and only heating until setpoint is met or something- depending on how much excess power is available.1
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that's a good point, I hadn't thought about that. I'm not looking to change the boiler out, maybe when this one craps out though. thank you.0
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that's a good point, I hadn't thought about that. I'm not looking to change the boiler out, maybe when this one craps out though. thank you.
An electric boiler is what you want to use. They're cheap. They're small. Don't use a tankless water heater (like for a shower sold at Home Depot). You want want designed for central heating - they have close to 0 head loss.2 -
thanks. seems like that's the way to go, but definitely not doing something radical to the heating system that doesn't need to be done smack in the middle of heating season, that would just be asking for trouble.0
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Simple to do. Often we overlook the obvious. Plug in oil filled is even easier.Hot_water_fan said:Unconventional, but if it’s truly being otherwise unused, do it! You could also just use an electric baseboard.
;1 -
bburd said:
A tank type electric water heater would make more sense than a tankless. It could store the solar energy in the form of hot water slowly, even when water is not being drawn.
Thermal storage is most economical. Change controls for more capacity by means of higher temperature.1 -
Prices will vary from region to region, but in general, natural gas is much cheaper on a "per BTU" basis. Unless she is producing way more electricity than she uses on an annual basis, she is probably better off heating with gas and paying little or nothing for electricity."If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
Albert Einstein1 -
Definitely consider this! You say she has excess electrical energy that you want to end up as HEAT.jumper said:
Simple to do. Often we overlook the obvious. Plug in oil filled is even easier.Hot_water_fan said:Unconventional, but if it’s truly being otherwise unused, do it! You could also just use an electric baseboard.
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These oil-filled radiators work great, have their own thermostats, you can place them wherever you desire, and the heat generated will mean less natural gas used. Think about it.1 -
Resol makes a PV control that can determine when there is excess PV generation. Instead of sending it back to the grid at low KWh prices it turns on a thermal tank
so a large electric water heater tied just to a PV array would store excessive PV as thermal for heating
Tie this tank into the heating system as a parallel load. It runs down to the lowest usable temperature, then the gas take over
A simple delta t controller would make that decision. Once the tank gains temperature again boiler goes off line, PV electric/ thermal takes over againBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream2 -
that's awesome. she really doesn't have the room for a separate storage tank, and I'm not particularly savvy with controls wiring, but that is definitely something I'll explore for after the heating season when I'm not under the gun and have time to "play around", thank you!0
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