Burnham Oil Burner creating tons of soot

EdTheHeaterMan · January 4

Someone needs to put a combustion analyzer on that equipment and make the adjustment indicated by the results of the smoke test. The Smoke Test should be the first test.

@KC_Jones said: The factory settings are just a starting point, and unless the world is perfect, many times won't result in proper combustion.

@Jamie Hall said: The key to that list of settings is "adjust air settings to Beckett OEM specifications". That will -- with either pump pressure -- allow the burner to fire. But -- there is no guarantee from Burnham or anyone else -- that that will be the correct setting.

Both are basically saying the same thing. The factory settings are not the final word.
On page 42 of the US Boiler I/O manual that the installer must follow is a Section 8 paragraph E that reads as follows:
E. ADJUST OIL BURNER WHILE OPERATING. (flame present)

1. ADJUST DRAFT REGULATOR for a draft of zero inches (water gauge) in the canopy (see Figure 5-3) after chimney has reached operating temperature and while burner is running. (At least five minutes) See Tables 14-1 thru 14-4 at rear of manual for details.
2. READJUST THE AIR SETTING on burner for a light orange colored flame while the draft in the canopy is zero inches water column ("w.c.). Use a smoke tester and adjust air for minimum smoke (not to exceed #1) with a minimum of excess air. Make final check using suitable instrumentation to obtain a CO2 of 11.5 to 13.0% with draft of zero inches water column ("w.c.) (water gauge) in canopy. These settings will assure a safe and efficient operating condition. If the flame appears stringy instead of a solid fire, try another nozzle of the same type. Flame should be solid and compact. After all adjustments are made recheck for a draft of zero inches water column ("w.c.) in the canopy. Replace plug at completion. See Tables 14-1 thru 14-4 (at rear of this manual) for details regarding the overfire pressure when baffles are both installed and removed.
3. READJUST THE HEAD SETTING. It might be necessary to move the head forward or back one position at a time to optimize the smoke and CO2 readings. Refer to Burner Manufacturer's Manual for details.
4. TURN “OFF” BURNER and remove pressure gauge. Install gauge port/bleeder plug and tighten. Start burner again. WARNING Do not loosen or remove any oil line fittings while burner is operating.
5. FLAME FAILURE The Boiler Control operates the burner automatically. If for unknown reasons the burner ceases to fire and the reset button on the primary control has tripped, the burner has experienced ignition failure. Refer to Oil Primary Control Features, Paragraph J, Step 2 of this Section and Section 13, Trouble Shooting, Paragraph B.

You want to see the report from the testing instruments like the Smoke tester, the CO2 readings and the draft numbers that are mentioned in this part of the instructions manual. Especially the #2 and #3 where it says "READJUST". If no one has completed that, then there is your problem. Get that part done by someone who knows what they are doing, and you may find the answers you need.

EBEBRATT-Ed · January 4

Give the tech some credit. He tried different pump pressures and talked with Beckett or Burnham (maybe both)

and the last line says it all "with either pump pressure burner not operating properly"

He might have spent more time on this I probably would have tried some different things.

Factory settings ain.t the bible. They have been proven wrong many times. But you have to start someplace.

This is what makes combustion difficult and with oil more so than gas, Combustion air temp, fuel temp & pressure, draft and boiler water temp and oil quality all change combustion.

Staring at an analyzer screen doesn't do a dam thing. If it isn't working, you need to change something.

So many techs are locked into the analyzer screen and the mfg. settings that they give up when it doesn't work. In their mind it's supposed to work and does not work so they quit on it.

SlamDunk · January 4

A combustion analysis would look something like this. It would tell: you, future technicians, us, how the boiler was left. On the rare occasions that I do one, I print out “as found” & “as left” numbers.

Steamhead · January 4

From the Beckett OEM Spec Guide:

Model Burner Nozzle Alt. Nozzle Pressure Air settings Head

MPO115 AFG 0.65 X 45°B 0.65 X 45°B* (H) 150 S-6 / B-0 L2
MPO115 AFG 0.60 X 45°W 0.60 X 45°B 180 S-5 / B-0 L2

Note that they use a smaller nozzle with the higher pressure.

Jamie Hall · January 5

And a W pattern rather than a B

STEVEusaPA · January 5

Jamie Hall said:
And a W pattern rather than a B

Why? Mine runs perfect with a B. I run the factory spec in mine and I actually add more air than true zero smoke + because it was reading 90% and my analyzer was freaking out...lol

Grallert · January 5

I'm curious, Has anyone been able to get this running properly while they are standing there? In other words does it run for a period of time only to act up shortly after the crew has left? Or has it never run properly at any time? This sounds so much like a loose or cracked nozzle adaptor.

irishrosepotter · January 5

@Grallert "I'm curious, Has anyone been able to get this running properly while they are standing there? In other words does it run for a period of time only to act up shortly after the crew has left? Or has it never run properly at any time? This sounds so much like a loose or cracked nozzle adaptor.

Yes each time it seems to be running fine and then it starts sooting up. Twice after the crew left and the system shutdown and then this last time while the tech was still here.

Grallert · January 5

I worked with a guy years ago who insisted on really wrenching down on the nozzle when servicing the burner. He would back one wrench and really lean on the other stretching's the threads in the adapter and causing a leak through the threads especially at an elevated pressure. It would show up only after enough oil has dripped into the burner tube and out into the chamber. If the burner tube was cleaned with every attempt to solve the issue it would take a day or so to declare it's self. This is something I've seen a number of time since. What you are describing rings that bell for me. An indicator for me was a nozzle that turned out normally for a few threads and then started to bind or gaul the rest of the way.
Just a thought and something I'd look at.
Good luck.

MikeAmann · January 6

Soot means that you have either too much fuel, or not enough air - period.
You have said that you have no venting blockages, so I side with @Grallert , this points to a too much fuel problem.

EBEBRATT-Ed · January 6

You can still make soot with the right amount of fuel and air if the burner is not doing it's job which is to mix fuel and air.

No one is going to know until MR Beckett gets their

MikeAmann · January 6

True, but @irishrosepotter said that it runs fine while the tech is there, and it screws up sometime later.

Burnham Oil Burner creating tons of soot

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