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Would a Mini Split be a good dehumidifier in a basement?

DJDrew
DJDrew Member Posts: 93
edited July 2023 in THE MAIN WALL
Does anyone know or have experience if a mini split would be a good dehumidifier for the basement? It seems like it would be significantly quieter than the portable unit we use currently.

There are other issues with our basement such as fresh air, so we started looking at an HRV, but to do something wholistic and tackle fresh air and humidity at the same time might be more logical.

We are not too worried about heat, as there is a zone off the boiler with panel radiators (probably short cycling until we replace with a mod con, but it works.)

Would a ducted mini split work? Or would it make the basement even colder? I am assuming there is no all-in-one solution to tackle fresh air and humidity, so an HRV would be a separate system to run in tandem. Thoughts?
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Comments

  • Hot_water_fan
    Hot_water_fan Member Posts: 2,040
    It’s not really designed for this, but yes a heat pump/ AC would work. Carrier makes some models with reheat, which cools then heats the air so the temperature doesn’t fall as it runs. 
    DJDrew
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,294
    The smallest heat pump will work. 
    You’ll be surprised it will operate in heat mode while A/C is on upstairs. 

    Add a whole house dehumidifier for total comfort. 
    DJDrew
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,332
    Some manufacturers have a "dry" setting on the remote, but it's not a dehumidifier. 
    SuperTechDJDrewmattmia2
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,294
    HVACNUT said:
    Some manufacturers have a "dry" setting on the remote, but it's not a dehumidifier. 
    That’s for a little extra. Even a small mini at 6,000 is oversized for an average basement 
  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,019
    Some times all that is needed is a good whole house dehumidifier for a basement ..Figure the basement receives the leakage from the first floor...

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

    pecmsgDJDrewDerheatmeister
  • jumper
    jumper Member Posts: 2,385
    A separate dehumidifier saves $$$. For one thing it enables running A/C at higher temperature.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    edited July 2023
    jumper said:
    A separate dehumidifier saves $$$. For one thing it enables running A/C at higher temperature.
    How would this save money?
    You're paying to run the dehumidifier and if the AC needed to be set lower it wasn't running much to begin with.

    I think a whole house dehumidifier can certainly increase comfort under some conditions but I'm not so sure it saves money.  I've got a feeling it would never even pay for it self.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    DJDrew
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,332
    jumper said:
    A separate dehumidifier saves $$$. For one thing it enables running A/C at higher temperature.
    I think you might feel more comfortable with less humidity, but a dehumidifier can discharge some pretty high temperatures that the AC now has to compensate for. 
    CLambDJDrewSuperTech
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,294
    Basements are cool and humid by nature. You’re below ground. If anything they need Heat 80 - 90% of the year and dehumidification. 
    DJDrew
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    pecmsg said:
    Basements are cool and humid by nature. You’re below ground. If anything they need Heat 80 - 90% of the year and dehumidification. 
    My basement is 82F and 42% right now from the dehumidifier running 24/7.


    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    ethicalpaul
  • kenjohnson
    kenjohnson Member Posts: 87
    I have a small Mitsubishi mini-split in my walk out basement of my condo. When set to dehumidify mode, it makes the basement quite cool. I don't use the mini-split as an alternative to a normal $300 dehumidifier.
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,790
    From my perusal of the manual of a Mitsubishi I installed a few weeks ago, dry mode just cranks the coil temp down as low as it can get it for like a half-hour or so. IIRC the manual even said that it shouldn't be run more than one cycle in a row.
    DJDrew
  • DJDrew
    DJDrew Member Posts: 93
    edited July 2023
    From what it sounds like (above), there are certain mini-splits might do this constant dehumidification better than others, with the advantage being that most of the latent heat is transferred outside. We have Mitsubishi on the first and second level and I have not found a way to dial in a humidity % with them. It's either AC (sometimes wet-feeling AC) or full on dry mode that turns the room into an icebox after awhile. I'll have to look into Carrier version to see if it operates differently. My thinking with a mini-split is it is more efficient than any standalone or whole house dehumidifier.

    Right now we have a portable dehumidifier that is running in the basement and raising the temperature to the low 70's (at least with low humidity.) That heat is then probably traveling upstairs for the mini split system upstairs to remove.

    It seems that most (85-90%) of the moisture in the basement is from condensation on the colder floor and walls (1938 construction), so perhaps the latent heat from the portable dehumidifier is helping. The whole house dehumidifiers that offer a fresh air port look enticing, but then the house would be operating under positive air pressure with the hook up the fresh air intake. Logically I'd assume that with fresh air entering, it's best to have an equal amount of stale air leaving.

    Googling this issue seems to confirm that dehumidifying a basement is not so simple, but it's easy to find ways to drive up the electric bill solving.
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,332
    DJDrew said:
    From what it sounds like (above), there are certain mini-splits might do this constant dehumidification better than others, with the advantage being that most of the latent heat is transferred outside. We have Mitsubishi on the first and second level and I have not found a way to dial in a humidity % with them. It's either AC (sometimes wet-feeling AC) or full on dry mode that turns the room into an icebox after awhile. I'll have to look into Carrier version to see if it operates differently. My thinking with a mini-split is it is more efficient than any standalone or whole house dehumidifier. Right now we have a portable dehumidifier that is running in the basement and raising the temperature to the low 70's (at least with low humidity.) That heat is then probably traveling upstairs for the mini split system upstairs to remove. It seems that most (85-90%) of the moisture in the basement is from condensation on the colder floor and walls (1938 construction), so perhaps the latent heat from the portable dehumidifier is helping. The whole house dehumidifiers that offer a fresh air port look enticing, but then the house would be operating under positive air pressure with the hook up the fresh air intake. Logically I'd assume that with fresh air entering, it's best to have an equal amount of stale air leaving. Googling this issue seems to confirm that dehumidifying a basement is not so simple, but it's easy to find ways to drive up the electric bill solving.
    Look at the Aprilaire E100. Pipe it to a drain or condensate pump, plug it in, done.
    mattmia2DJDrew
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,939
    edited August 2023
    Look in to desiccant wheel type dehumidifiers if you want to dump some of the heat from the dehumidification process outside.

    If your basement is heating significantly, are you sure the dehumidifier is still running on a full charge? It definitely will warm the room some, but it will warm it a lot more if it has leaked some of its refrigerant out.
    DJDrew
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    edited July 2023
    mattmia2 said:
    Look in to desiccant wheel type dehumidifiers if you want to dump some of the heat from the demystification process outside. If your basement is heating significantly, are you sure the dehumidifier is still running on a full charge? It definitely will warm the room some, but it will warm it a lot more if it has leaked some of its refrigerant out.
    Why is that?
    And how is that?


    I would expect it to heat less if it was low on gas?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,939
    ChrisJ said:


    Why is that?
    And how is that?


    I would expect it to heat less if it was low on gas?

    The compressor runs but it doesn't dehumidify or dehumidifies very little so the humidistat is never satisfied so the compressor runs constantly or almost constantly. The heat comes from the compressor motor. If it is fully charged it uses a little more power but it also runs a lot less.

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,019
    Like mentioned the Aprilaire whole house humidifier ,I found they work well . Duct the supply to the separate basement areas and duct the return into the living space .

    Set up a drain. Set it and forget it . Once it brings the humidity down it will shut down . It would check the level now and then and turn on as needed .

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

    DJDrew
  • Hot_water_fan
    Hot_water_fan Member Posts: 2,040
    My thinking with a mini-split is it is more efficient than any standalone or whole house dehumidifier.
    I don’t think there’s any reason to think that: a heat pump and a dehumidifier both use refrigerant to create a cold enough coil to condense water in the air. Ductless heat pumps can sometimes have high SEER ratings, but that’s usually because they use a higher temperature coil that hardly removes any moisture. The ductless heat pumps that remove substantial moisture are necessarily less efficient. 
    DJDrew
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    mattmia2 said:
    Why is that?
    And how is that?


    I would expect it to heat less if it was low on gas?
    The compressor runs but it doesn't dehumidify or dehumidifies very little so the humidistat is never satisfied so the compressor runs constantly or almost constantly. The heat comes from the compressor motor. If it is fully charged it uses a little more power but it also runs a lot less.
    True
    But undercharged would cause less and less load on the motor. Less load means less heat.

    Sounds like a good myth busters episode.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,939
    I do know the sign of the 3 that lost their charge was it was warm in the basement and they were running whenever i went in to the basement.
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,294
    ChrisJ said:
    mattmia2 said:
    Why is that?
    And how is that?


    I would expect it to heat less if it was low on gas?
    The compressor runs but it doesn't dehumidify or dehumidifies very little so the humidistat is never satisfied so the compressor runs constantly or almost constantly. The heat comes from the compressor motor. If it is fully charged it uses a little more power but it also runs a lot less.
    True
    But undercharged would cause less and less load on the motor. Less load means less heat.

    Sounds like a good myth busters episode.

    The refrigerant cools the motor. Low charge = more heat!
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,939
    pecmsg said:


    The refrigerant cools the motor. Low charge = more heat!

    But it dumps it in the condenser which is in the same space with a dehumidifier so it ends up in the conditioned space either way. It is the more run time and that the motor consumes most of its rated power even without a load on it that causes more heat if there is a low charge.
  • jumper
    jumper Member Posts: 2,385
    ratio said:

    From my perusal of the manual of a Mitsubishi I installed a few weeks ago, dry mode just cranks the coil temp down as low as it can get it for like a half-hour or so. IIRC the manual even said that it shouldn't be run more than one cycle in a row.

    Efficient dehumidifier recovers some "cooling" with downstream
    condenser. A/C cannot be as efficient. Some A/C use a downstream coil to subcool refrigerant and reheat air.
  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,019
    The dehumidifier cools its evaporator to remove humidity . Not much heat load entering a normal cellar ? Very few window and exposed walls . Humidity is what needs to be adjusted . Cooling without removing humidity will give you the cold damp uncomfortable condition . The mini split is not designed to be a good dehumidifier ... Just beware of how you sell it..

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    Big Ed_4 said:
    The dehumidifier cools its evaporator to remove humidity . Not much heat load entering a normal cellar ? Very few window and exposed walls . Humidity is what needs to be adjusted . Cooling without removing humidity will give you the cold damp uncomfortable condition . The mini split is not designed to be a good dehumidifier ... Just beware of how you sell it..
    What about if you put the outdoor unit inside with the evaporator?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,019
    A dehumidifier is a different from an AC system , AC system moves energy ,while a dehumidifier is designed to remove moisture not cool or heat. The air flow in a dehumidifier first cools the condenser and then condenses across the evaporator . Heat it up and cool it down... What works is a good efficient unit ... Those cheap potables are just that.

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    edited August 2023
    Big Ed_4 said:
    A dehumidifier is a different from an AC system , AC system moves energy ,while a dehumidifier is designed to remove moisture not cool or heat. The air flow in a dehumidifier first cools the condenser and then condenses across the evaporator . Heat it up and cool it down... What works is a good efficient unit ... Those cheap potables are just that.
    Wouldn't you run it through the evaporator first to drop the dew point and then run it through the condenser to reheat?  Just like hot gas reheat setups?

    Heating it first seems like it would be counter productive.

    My comment about putting the outdoor unit inside was a joke but would most certainly work overall.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,790
    edited August 2023
    100% of the energy used by a packaged consumer-grade dehumidifier ends up as heat in the space it's in. If the unit is working, it'll be taking water out of the air & possibly satisfying from time to time. If not, it's just an electric heater. To actually dehum without raising the temp at all, you'll need to reject at least some of the heat outside. If you want to keep that heat inside, like during the winter, you'll need to modulate that outdoor coil.

    I've always thought it would be neat to have a refrigeration rack to operate things like ACs, dehumidifiers, refrigerators, & heating coils. Kinda like a build-up VRF system, but cheaper. Maybe.

    mattmia2DJDrew
  • jumper
    jumper Member Posts: 2,385
    >> need to reject at least some of the heat outside.<<

    If that was a big deal one can also reject heat to condensed water before it is disposed. The liquid refrigerant can be subcooled by that water. From experience I can state that dehumidifier are a good investment. As I already explained.
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,790
    edited August 2023
    jumper said:

    If that was a big deal one can also reject heat to condensed water before it is disposed. The liquid refrigerant can be subcooled by that water.

    Possibly, I don't have much experience with water condensers, so I can't judge how much heat the water would carry out of the house. I do know that an outdoor coil would work.
    From experience I can state that dehumidifier are a good investment. As I already explained.
    I never believed they were anything else than a good idea if you've got high humidity. I just believe that they add heat to the space as well as remove humidity. Whether or not that heat is a significant amount is something that I haven't thought about, due to a lack of necessity.

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,294
    ratio said:

    jumper said:

    If that was a big deal one can also reject heat to condensed water before it is disposed. The liquid refrigerant can be subcooled by that water.

    Possibly, I don't have much experience with water condensers, so I can't judge how much heat the water would carry out of the house. I do know that an outdoor coil would work.
    From experience I can state that dehumidifier are a good investment. As I already explained.
    I never believed they were anything else than a good idea if you've got high humidity. I just believe that they add heat to the space as well as remove humidity. Whether or not that heat is a significant amount is something that I haven't thought about, due to a lack of necessity.



    Heat pump water heaters do exactly that.
  • jumper
    jumper Member Posts: 2,385
    Easy to calculate heat produced by dehumidifier: hours times power.
    Those heat pump water heaters with inside evaporators can cool your basement somewhat. But dehumidify?
    BTW if condensation is an issue in basement a cheap fan might help.
    >>
    add heat to the space as well as remove humidity. Whether or not that heat is a significant amount is something that I haven't thought about, due to a lack of necessity.
    Heat pump water heaters do exactly that
    . <<
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 6,669
    edited August 2023
    pecmsg said:

    Heat pump water heaters do exactly that.

    Well actually they do the opposite, they remove humidity and cool the space

    Edit: on re-re-reading I'm not exactly sure what pecmsg meant by "that" (there is a lot being said in this thread) so maybe we're saying the same thing.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,939
    jumper said:

    Easy to calculate heat produced by dehumidifier: hours times power.

    easy to calculate but very difficult to measure unless you hook it up to a data logger since the power consumption depends on exactly what conditions it is operating in at any particular moment
  • Rich_49
    Rich_49 Member Posts: 2,769
    Santa Fe ventilating dehumidifier . That's all ya need to do what you describe
    You didn't get what you didn't pay for and it will never be what you thought it would .
    Langans Plumbing & Heating LLC
    732-751-1560
    Serving most of New Jersey, Eastern Pa .
    Consultation, Design & Installation anywhere
    Rich McGrath 732-581-3833
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    Rich_49 said:

    Santa Fe ventilating dehumidifier . That's all ya need to do what you describe


    Wow,

    https://www.sylvane.com/santa-fe-dehumidifier.html

    I guess that's a real, good quality version of a standalone dehumidifier.

    Well, there you go @mattmia2 Tired of them dumping their charge, pay for one that's made to last.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    Rich_49
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,939
    I bought an aprilaire about 2 years ago, so far so good. A friend had a cheap Chinese dehumidifier catch fire over the weekend, looks like it did a lot of smoke damage to the whole house.
    realliveplumber
  • jumper
    jumper Member Posts: 2,385
    I'm surprised that nobody comments about my suggestion to try a fan.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    jumper said:

    I'm surprised that nobody comments about my suggestion to try a fan.


    How will a fan help with condensation issues in a damp basement?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    mattmia2