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Cleaned up wiring around the boiler and zone valves
Aluvaboy
Member Posts: 29
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I did not take a "before" picture! It was a real mess. I was embarrassed at the before situation. I am posting an overall picture of the system.
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I used the threaded rods encased into black plastic tubes to get a cleaner look and to prevent the wires (brown thermostat wires) from sagging. Also the Ampere meter/Voltmeter is held in place using the threaded rod. The reason for installing Ampere meter/Voltmeter was because occasionally even after a call for heat from the thermostats for each zone, the boiler would not fire up. I first thought that it was a wiring issue (end switches not closing on the zone valve), but found that the circulator pump was working. The boiler aquastat was not allowing the boiler to fire up because the water temp was above the max temperature limit (170 degrees). Now looking at the Ampere meter, I know that the water is circulating and eventually the boiler will fire when the temp drops below 170.0
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I hope you doubled the wire in those connectors.0
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Thanks. I didn't know that crimp connectors are not for solid wires. Anyway I had them soldered because I did not want the red insulation crushed up during crimping. So removed the red insulation, soldered and pushed it back on while the connector was still hot from soldering. Learned something today. Thanks!3
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I don't see anything wrong with the romex0
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I believe Romex is allowed by code but I prefer to have additional protection when the wiring is at low level like in the case. It looks like it is behind the boiler but something could be dropped on it during service, etc.0
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@EBEBRATT-Ed The section of Romex I'm concerned with is the span from the aquastat to 2x4. I personally would rather run the wire vertical to the ceiling from aquastat and avoid the section of low wire parallel to the floor.
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I just completed some more clean up for the wiring - heeding to some of the comments I received. Removed all the Romex wires. Removed the furring on the wall etc. Also I replaced the Honeywell Aquastat with a Hydrostat 3250Plus. I mounted it remotely on the wall so I don't have to kneel to make adjustments etc. and the display is at eye level. I also installed two isolation valves for the Taco circulator. Here is the end result.
Note: Today the outside temperature by me was around sixty degrees. That is why the temperature is showing 75 degrees on the Hydrostat display. I also received a full months gas bill after the Hydrostat install. Comparing January & February, there was a savings of around $100.00 even after factoring in the shorter and slightly milder February. So the effort is paying back!1 -
Super glad I could help with the wiring diagramAluvaboy said:
Mr. Ed,
Finally I completed everything. I installed two isolation valves for the circulator. Removed some more of the exposed wiring etc.
Here is a reminder for those of you that may have forgotten how talented my 3 YO grandson is at making complex wiring diagrams
An exact "As Built" from that diagram
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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It looks great. i like taco zone sentry valves because they have phoenix connectors, much easier to make a neat termination to. When i lace something like that i run the wire past the equipment i am going to connect it to then back to where i need it so i have a service loop dressed to whatever i'm lacing it to if i need to reterminate it.0
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