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Cleaned up wiring around the boiler and zone valves

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Aluvaboy
Aluvaboy Member Posts: 29
This is my first posting.

Since it was a snow day in the North East, I cleaned up the wiring around the boiler and zone valves. Also installed a Taco Zone Valve control. I also installed a voltage/ampere meter display.





DJD775mattmia2Solid_Fuel_Man

Comments

  • DJD775
    DJD775 Member Posts: 252
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    Looks neater than most installs. You should think about changing the Romex for MC cable.
    AluvaboyZman
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,095
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    Looks very good, will make troubleshooting much easier for the next guy.
    Do you have any "before" pictures
    Aluvaboy
  • Aluvaboy
    Aluvaboy Member Posts: 29
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    Thanks for the input. I will be doing that. I have to install two valves for the Taco circulator. When I drain the system to install the valves I will change the Romex for MC.
    DJD775
  • Aluvaboy
    Aluvaboy Member Posts: 29
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    I did not take a "before" picture! It was a real mess. I was embarrassed at the before situation. I am posting an overall picture of the system.
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 4,916
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    Is that a threaded rod clamp to the pipe as a support?

    Interesting.
    Aluvaboy
  • Aluvaboy
    Aluvaboy Member Posts: 29
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    I used the threaded rods encased into black plastic tubes to get a cleaner look and to prevent the wires (brown thermostat wires) from sagging. Also the Ampere meter/Voltmeter is held in place using the threaded rod. The reason for installing Ampere meter/Voltmeter was because occasionally even after a call for heat from the thermostats for each zone, the boiler would not fire up. I first thought that it was a wiring issue (end switches not closing on the zone valve), but found that the circulator pump was working. The boiler aquastat was not allowing the boiler to fire up because the water temp was above the max temperature limit (170 degrees). Now looking at the Ampere meter, I know that the water is circulating and eventually the boiler will fire when the temp drops below 170.
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 4,916
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    I hope you doubled the wire in those connectors.
  • Aluvaboy
    Aluvaboy Member Posts: 29
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    What do you mean by "doubled the wire in those connectors" ? The wires are 18 gauge. Also I soldered the connectors apart from crimping.
    Solid_Fuel_Man
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 4,916
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    Aluvaboy said:

    What do you mean by "doubled the wire in those connectors" ? The wires are 18 gauge. Also I soldered the connectors apart from crimping.

    Crimp connectors are not designed for solid wire. You can strip it longer and double it over.

    Soldering works also.
    DJD775Aluvaboyratio
  • Aluvaboy
    Aluvaboy Member Posts: 29
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    Thanks. I didn't know that crimp connectors are not for solid wires. Anyway I had them soldered because I did not want the red insulation crushed up during crimping. So removed the red insulation, soldered and pushed it back on while the connector was still hot from soldering. Learned something today. Thanks!
    pecmsgMikeAmannEdTheHeaterMan
  • MikeAmann
    MikeAmann Member Posts: 998
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    I like how you used the split pipe clamps and threaded rod covered in PVC as a wire loom support. Clever.
    pecmsg
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,767
    edited January 2022
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    I don't see anything wrong with the romex
  • DJD775
    DJD775 Member Posts: 252
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    I believe Romex is allowed by code but I prefer to have additional protection when the wiring is at low level like in the case. It looks like it is behind the boiler but something could be dropped on it during service, etc.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,767
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    @DJD775

    It is allowed by code because it is stapled to a running board
  • DJD775
    DJD775 Member Posts: 252
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    @EBEBRATT-Ed The section of Romex I'm concerned with is the span from the aquastat to 2x4. I personally would rather run the wire vertical to the ceiling from aquastat and avoid the section of low wire parallel to the floor.

  • Aluvaboy
    Aluvaboy Member Posts: 29
    edited March 2022
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    I just completed some more clean up for the wiring - heeding to some of the comments I received. Removed all the Romex wires. Removed the furring on the wall etc. Also I replaced the Honeywell Aquastat with a Hydrostat 3250Plus. I mounted it remotely on the wall so I don't have to kneel to make adjustments etc. and the display is at eye level. I also installed two isolation valves for the Taco circulator. Here is the end result.


    Note: Today the outside temperature by me was around sixty degrees. That is why the temperature is showing 75 degrees on the Hydrostat display. I also received a full months gas bill after the Hydrostat install. Comparing January & February, there was a savings of around $100.00 even after factoring in the shorter and slightly milder February. So the effort is paying back!
    mattmia2
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 8,157
    edited March 2022
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    Aluvaboy said:


    Mr. Ed,

    Finally I completed everything. I installed two isolation valves for the circulator. Removed some more of the exposed wiring etc.

    Super glad I could help with the wiring diagram


    Here is a reminder for those of you that may have forgotten how talented my 3 YO grandson is at making complex wiring diagrams



    An exact "As Built" from that diagram

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    pecmsgbucksnortZmanSolid_Fuel_Man
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,850
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    It looks great. i like taco zone sentry valves because they have phoenix connectors, much easier to make a neat termination to. When i lace something like that i run the wire past the equipment i am going to connect it to then back to where i need it so i have a service loop dressed to whatever i'm lacing it to if i need to reterminate it.