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One or two risers?

ranzerox
ranzerox Member Posts: 52
edited January 2022 in Strictly Steam
I have a new GSA-075, 75K BTU, and it has two openings for risers. In the product manual it displays the product with one riser. The 2nd opening is closed, would it be beneficial to use it for a 2nd riser?




Comments

  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,430
    Two generously sized risers are always better than one, but not always necessary.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
    delcrossvmattmia2
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 817
    Just make sure your takeoff is after both risers, not between them. 😉
    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    cross_skierranzerox
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 5,938
    edited January 2022
    My opinion is it's not necessary in your case. Here's my video where I tested exactly what you're asking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IymyZB4wlI

    These tables are very good for seeing the velocities involved:

    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/180180/tools-and-tables-for-easily-determining-the-steam-velocity-in-boiler-risers

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    ranzerox
  • cross_skier
    cross_skier Member Posts: 201
    edited January 2022
    I respect @ethicalpaul and his work.  It's a pretty small boiler so one full size riser is ok in this case.

    In larger boilers I would use all available supply tappings
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 5,938
    edited January 2022
    Thanks! But even a single 2" riser is OK in this case :) (to clarify, the OP didn't post the table from his instructions, but I'm assuming it's a single 2" specified)

    I would always follow the manufacturer's spec unless it's Burnham. They have some crazy velocities

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • KC_Jones
    KC_Jones Member Posts: 5,756
    I agree with Paul, I'd still "overkill" and do a 3" riser and header. You aren't talking a significant cost increase for a few 3" fittings and pipe. Well, not significant to me when considering total cost and how long you will potentially live with it.
    2014 Weil Mclain EG-40
    EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
    Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
    ranzeroxethicalpauldelcrossv
  • AdmiralYoda
    AdmiralYoda Member Posts: 652
    edited January 2022
    @ethicalpaul
    What size were the tappings on the boiler sections? Where they 2" or did you need to reduce it to 2"? I'm interested in the Peerless 63-03L as well.
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 5,938
    I reduced them to 2", they were nice and big--the 03L uses the same castings as the rest of the 63 line so they are large for the greater number of sections of the larger boilers.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,987
    @ranzerox

    @ 196 EDR that is only 47,000 btus for that little Williamson. I would stick to one riser. If you feel the need install a riser the size of the boiler tapping and put a reducing elbow at the top of the riser. If you enlarge the riser no water will climb up there.

    two rises is nothing but money wasted on that boiler.

    That boiler has a 3" tapping. I would have a supply house cut or buy a 3 x24" or 30" nipple if you have room and put a big riser on it with a 3x2 elbow at the top.

    Water that stays in the boiler does not have to be seperated in the header :)

    That boiler only calls for a 1 2" riser and header
    ranzeroxdelcrossv
  • SolarGuy1
    SolarGuy1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a similar situation with my Weil McLean SGO-5 except mine has only one two and a half inch tapping and a boss on the last section that is not drilled and tapped. Specs require a 2 and 1/2 in riser and 3-in header but I'm wondering if I would be better off (1) drilling and tapping the last section or (2) using a reducer coupling in reverse to make the riser 3-in with a 4-in drop header since I would be only using one riser instead of two. I'm sure anything at this point would be an improvement over the two and a half inch riser and 2-in header the boiler installers left instead of increasing it. They also left the equalizer pipe at inch and a quarter instead of inch and a half as required, which I will be changing also.
    2000 sq. ft. house - c.1880
    One pipe steam - counter flow
    Weil-McLain SGO-5
    Tekmar 279 Controller
    12oz. per sq. in.
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,167
    @SolarGuy1 , drilling and tapping that section is more work than it's worth. If you don't tap it perfectly straight, you'll have a heck of a time lining everything up. Follow W-M's specs and you'll be fine.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    SolarGuy1
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 10,209
    A bigger riser will give you more benefit than a bigger header. The larger diameter riser will slow the steam down and allow more water droplets to fall out of it. If you want to go bigger than the tapping just use a reducer in a vertical section. Make sure you don't use reducers in horizontal sections in such a way that they trap condensate.
    EBEBRATT-EdSolarGuy1
  • The Steam Whisperer
    The Steam Whisperer Member Posts: 1,233
    edited August 2022
    A single 3 inch riser gives you a velocity of only 9 ft/sec, well below the maximum of 25ft/sec in which water can drop back into the boiler. A single 2 1/2 would even be below the carryover velocity. Anything more than a 3 inch riser is a waste on money. For the extra money buy some main vents and a set of Ventrite adjustable vents for your radiators, or better yet some TRV's.
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
    SolarGuy1ChrisJ