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edited October 2021 in Strictly Steam
Would it have made sense for this drain pipe to have a T and then an elbow with full port valve vs being reduced down to 3/4? I know this works fine but I am wondering if the increased flow makes more sense. Thanks.
Jamie Hall said:That hose bibb -- which is going to be mighty handy -- has more restriction than pretty much any combination of fittings you could squeeze in there.0
I have been called to service old boilers, water and steam, also water heater tanks which have boiler drains like that.
By the time someone calls the entire system had been neglected.
Those drains would not pass anything. Back flushing them with house pressure might get them open enough to drain the boiler/tank. But they will not pass the sludge solids that might be present.
After all that hassle, I would remove the toy drain bib and install a 3/4" ball valve with hose adaptor.
At least with the full port straight shot one could probe inside with a wire to break up sludge.
Never get a wire thru those hose bibs.
So if there is an annual or bi-annual service visit then draining will be accomplished. It is easy to ignore this process if it is not easy.2
Sounds like a complete plan. Flip the tee like @EBEBRATT-Ed recommended. Then buy the valve @mattmia2 provide like to and configure per @JUGHNE.What a team.1
PC7060 said:Sounds like a complete plan. Flip the tee like @EBEBRATT-Ed recommended. Then buy the valve @mattmia2 provide like to and configure per @JUGHNE.What a team.2
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