Replacing piping

NYtimebomb

I suppose I should've said without having to remove the sight glass. I had to get a few more parts this morning so I'll see what I can do with re-arranging.

NYtimebomb

I removed the wheel handle from the top of the sight glass fitting and that allowed me to work the tee better. I ended up putting an 8" nipple on the outlet too. Here's the preview. Unfortunately I couldn't find a reducing elbow in my area so I'm stuck with the reducing coupling for this winter at least.


The alignment at the union joint is a hair off but I can get it threaded. How concerned should I be with the alignment of the union? Should I dope the union?




This weekend I will be putting it all together and getting the boiler running again. Thanks again for everyone's comments.

Double D

The alleinment of the union will need to be a little better than what the picture shows. When you're ready you should be able to find the fittings you want at Supplyhouse.com. They deliver them right to your door and in most cases for less than you pay at your local supply house.

STEAM DOCTOR

That union will definitely leak. Dope will not help. You might need to lower the boiler riser a bit and turn the elbow a bit upwards 

pecmsg

Aline a little closer. 

NeverSeize is your friend. 

JUGHNE

You can tighten the boiler riser to lower, however you want that top 90 to be the high point for slope towards the equalizer drop. You can get some turning there as there are 4 sets of threads.
Also swing the 90's for alignment as needed.

IIWM, I would clean the faces of the union where the parts are mated together, alignment is critical as is smoothness of mated faces.

NYtimebomb

Tightening to get the riser lower and union aligned makes sense; this was all just hand tightened. @JUGHNE Unfortunately, I won't be able to adjust for the equalizer drop as all the existing piping is staying for now. I do see what you are saying though.
Aside from a wire brush and PB Blaster any other suggestions for cleaning the faces of the union?
Thanks again.

JUGHNE

A fine wire brush wheel and finish up with Scotchbrite pad.
You want to do both mating surfaces.

NYtimebomb

Cleaned the union and got it aligned very well. It took quite a bit of tightening and adjusting for alignment. Everything is put together.




I re-lit the pilot, turned the power back on, and waited til the LWCO light was solid green. Turned the thermostat on and went to check the boiler and nothing. Waited a few minutes, still nothing.
I will look at troubleshooting steps in the manual, but anyone have any quick suggestions?
Thanks as always.

Double D

Check the pressure control. Make sure you have continuity through it. Make sure you have continuity through the fuse just above the burner on the RH side.

Double D

I just noticed you have a vent damper. Make sure it opened.

NYtimebomb

Thank you Double D. Vent damper opened. Continuity check passed through pressure control. The flame rollout fuse was replaced with a finishing nail that was loose... Got one on order already, but I made sure the boiler cycled as it should then turned off power to the whole thing.
The new piping did not leak from what I can tell. I wicked the 8" nipple used for the outlet as Ironman had suggested, and PTFE taped and doped every pipe. There was a bit of burn off of all the PB Blaster that had oversprayed and dripped, which was concerning at first but the smell gave it away pretty quickly.

Thanks to everyone who commented, I couldn't have done it without you. Now to fine tuning! I don't think the mains are venting well, but that's for another discussion.
Thanks again!

Double D

Don't hesitate to ask on the venting. Local supply houses may or may not stock vents that will be adequate for your system. Lengths and diameter of each main will be helpful.