Learning heat loss calcs - looking for infiltration factors
Comments
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This is how we used to do heat loss calculations in the "old days":
https://heatinghelp.com/assets/documents/110.pdf
Thanks to Erin, Dan and HeatingHelp for keeping this in their archives.8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab1 -
Infiltration, that’s the wild west, unless you have a blower door. This is a basic fundamental, the taller the structure, the more infiltration. The older the structure, the more infiltration. It’s likely why the old-timers put these huge radiators in the front entry/hallway.2
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Thanks! There's a lot of old and roughly built homes where I am that I think this would be useful for. Is there any other resources you can suggest for learning about this stuff? I see reference to "Manual J" sometimes but I don't know what that is!This is how we used to do heat loss calculations in the "old days":
https://heatinghelp.com/assets/documents/110.pdf
Thanks to Erin, Dan and HeatingHelp for keeping this in their archives.0 -
That one's too old, doesn't account for global warming. Neither does mine from the 80's.This is how we used to do heat loss calculations in the "old days":
https://heatinghelp.com/assets/documents/110.pdf
Thanks to Erin, Dan and HeatingHelp for keeping this in their archives.There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Do you have a recommendation for where I can find something updated? Or even wheat to search for?0 -
I think at @STEVEusaPA was joking -- the basic concepts haven't changed a bit, global warming or no. The only thing really lacking -- and easily accounted for -- is better insulation in more recently built or upgraded structures.Macro said:
Do you have a recommendation for where I can find something updated? Or even wheat to search for?Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
@Macro
Doing a few calculations manually is a good idea. Anyone can plug in a program and get results , but they won't know right from wrong.
Doing a few manually will give you an understanding of how it works.
Slant Finn has an app you can download that people use that is pretty good.1 -
Infiltration factor is always a bit of SWAG. The height of the building, location of the leaks, wind exposure and mechanical fans all play a factor.
A blower door test eliminates many variables. comparing past utility bills to heating degree days is also a good trick.
I like this article."If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
Albert Einstein2 -
I was having a look through it and it seems pretty comprehensive, almost too much for me! I'm not familiar with all the different variables you can choose from (wall types mostly) so I need to dig into it a little more.EBEBRATT-Ed said:@Macro
Doing a few calculations manually is a good idea. Anyone can plug in a program and get results , but they won't know right from wrong.
Doing a few manually will give you an understanding of how it works.
Slant Finn has an app you can download that people use that is pretty good.0 -
Some of the inputs to the heat loss are always a best guess. The r-value of windows and wall and ceiling assemblies are also a best guess.0
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I just went through this myself.... As a DIY project mind you. Without learning too much, lol, I found this to be of help.
best of luck with your project.0 -
Take a look here, we went into detail on heatloss during the first few sessions of Taco After Dark, Summer School
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52VCNqchLGo&list=PLsbNhUC4lCm_2aouRyJRpKXFBNHmW5nN_&index=14
Dave H.Dave Holdorf
Technical Training Manager - East
Taco Comfort Solutions
1
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