New Boiler install (edit) passed inspection :)

ethicalpaul

My favorite is the Electrical sticker says "furnace"

acwagner

Why is the boiler sticker in French?

Canucker

@acwagner probably because they sell that boiler in Canada too. We have to have both official languages on everything

ethicalpaul

That's a great question. I bought it from a supply house in northern NJ. Do all your Peerless boilers come with a sticker like this, @clammy ?

jhrost

You have shown admirable persistence and ingenuity through this whole process. If I recall from your earlier thread you had a side outlet boiler and wanted to go to the top outlet. When you were deciding which brand to get were there options you would have considered but maybe just weren't available to homeowners?

I'm also wondering if you considered getting the boiler shipped in sections and then putting them together? Your method of getting the boiler into your cellar could be a little scary to some.
It is nice too get something you don't have to assemble, but I wonder how simple a process it would be for a DIY person to assemble the sections and what the possible pitfalls might be?

ethicalpaul

Thanks @jhrost!

Yeah my old boiler was a Utica with side outlets. None of my options for the new one were really available to homeowners...I gave up my warranty for example.

My house is really small, so the smallest available boilers are about right or a little over. It came down to Peerless vs WM. Either would have been fine but I like my Peerless.

At these sizes I don't think it makes sense to consider a broken down boiler. It's only 3 sections and it comes all ready to go on a pallet and weighs only around 400 pounds.

It was only a bit challenging because it's Covid time and I didn't want to try to get help from friends. The boiler actually "stuck" on my ramp, I had to push it down, so it wasn't too bad.

I think a DIY could assemble a boiler, but I'm sure it's the kind of thing that is much easier after you've done a few of them. My understanding (from my manual) is you have to position the rope gasket, maybe apply some sealant, and then torque the tie rods according to instructions. Not bad, but not something you want to mess up.

My packaged boiler was SO EASY to hook up, it's the way to go if possible. Literally attach the flue, the 120 volts, the thermostat wire, and plug in the flue damper. That's it!

jhrost

Thanks for the reply. I hear you about the learning curve thing. A lot of times something sounds straightforward but there are always some subtleties to it you discover after you mess it up. It would be nice too see a few done before you tackle it.

JUGHNE

You did a great job Paul, "SO EASY".....did it come with the piping screwed all together and a union to each main??

Jhrost, there are probably Utubes for sectional boiler assembly.
They probably make it look simple...

Intplm.

ethicalpaul said:

No, he didn't put a red tag on it, but my understanding is that he should have. I think I have a year that the permit can remain open.

I will have him come back with the other issues all addressed and ask him to agree that the boiler is safe and operating. Then if he refuses I will ask for the actual red tag with the violations listed. Then I will see what the appeal process is like.

If I get fed up on a warm Saturday I might repipe it.

@ethicalpaul It's very good work you have done here. Dont repipe it. Or at least wait until the very last minute/reason? to do it. Maybe the rep will join you with the inspector next time? I know! Its a long shot.
Years ago we had a inspector that would come by for inspection. He would always find something that was, well, actually nothing.
It would get the younger guys upset. After this happened over and over again, we would actually install something more abviouse that was against code to satisfy him. We would fix it in front of him to satisfy his "need" and he would approve the job right then and there without any further inspection. It was for a time, a regular dog and pony show.
Im sorry for your troubles. Hang in there.

Intplm.

Hmm. thought I was at the end of the thread hence the above post.

Great to see things have finally worked out.

JUGHNE

Yes, that obvious, easily corrected violation, has worked for me in electrical inspections.
Some inspectors are like Nepalese Gurkha's, once the knife blade is drawn some blood must be drawn also. So you give them an easy target.

EdTheHeaterMan

acwagner said:

Why is the boiler sticker in French?

I think the French have dryer steam!

ethicalpaul

Here’s the sticker in its entirety. It’s just bilingual for sale in US and Canada I imagine. In my other photo only the French side was visible

ethicalpaul

When I showed him the document that came with the boiler that showed that my flue reducer actually came from the factory, he was shocked.

”You got me on that one,” he said. He was pretty cool overall.

SlowYourRoll

great job. an inspiration to us homeowners (although i am definitely not doing my own boiler). i'm still curious about something though...why did you go with drop headers if the steam was already dry enough when it got to the normal header height? i'm trying to learn what i can, and that's one that i couldn't figure out on my own

ethicalpaul

It’s a great question @SlowYourRoll!

There are 4 answers:
1. I didn’t know for sure (but did suspect) it would be dry even before the drop header. But I didn’t know for sure until I built it. So I wanted to see.
2. I believed the drop header would make the driest steam, regardless of other variables like water condition.
3. It’s actually a bit easier to fit the pipes with a drop header. You get more wiggle room.
4. It’s just cooler and I wanted to be in the small group of people who have ever piped one 😅

MaxMercy

SlowYourRoll said:

great job. an inspiration to us homeowners (although i am definitely not doing my own boiler)

I put in my hot water oil fired boiler three years ago, and all is well (other than being oversized). In my town, I don't need to have it inspected. I wouldn't try a steamer though. It may be simpler once it's installed, but it seems the original design must be sharper. Steam fascinates me which is why I'm following this thread!!

SlowYourRoll

ethicalpaul said:

It’s a great question @SlowYourRoll!

There are 4 answers:
1. I didn’t know for sure (but did suspect) it would be dry even before the drop header. But I didn’t know for sure until I built it. So I wanted to see.
2. I believed the drop header would make the driest steam, regardless of other variables like water condition.
3. It’s actually a bit easier to fit the pipes with a drop header. You get more wiggle room.
4. It’s just cooler and I wanted to be in the small group of people who have ever piped one 😅

cool cool. i suspected it might be a bit of #4 didn't really consider that you wouldn't know ahead of time (i.e. 1). and yeah, (as i understand it) it's not like 98% dry is this magic cutoff, so drying the steam out even more would increase the heat capacity of the steam (although at some point you'll get vanishing returns), and i suspect those bends do even more than just slow down the velocity, those water droplets (small as they may be) are gonna be bigger and have more inertia trying to drive them in a straight line. they are not going to enjoy doing a backflip then hanging an immediate left, not one bit.

Gordo

I wonder if there are charts in Canada that list radiation in "metre carre du vapeur" or do they just calculate "square feet of steam" and have done ?