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R8184G4009 oil burner control reset button keeps popping up

jsda77
jsda77 Member Posts: 19
Hello,

I have a question about a R8184G4009 oil burner control reset button keep popping up issue.
I changed filter and checked oil flow at the out hole on the filter housing and a bleeding screw.
Everything seems OK but my controller's reset button keeps popping up.

I push the button then it runs several minutes to half an hour or several hours but suddenly it pops up again.

What could be a reason?

Thank you.

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,596
    All kinds of things. Some of them irritating. Some of them a lot worse.

    Please do yourself and your technician a favour and shut the thing off and leave it off until you can get someone out there with the necessary test equipment to determine what is happening and fix it.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    jsda77STEVEusaPAHVACNUT
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,298
    @jsda77
    What @Jamie Hall said
    your creating a safety hazard
    jsda77
  • MaxMercy
    MaxMercy Member Posts: 518
    jsda77 said:



    What could be a reason?

    .

    All sorts of things. It could be a nuisance lock out, intermittent loss of flame, or there could be something wrong with the flame - like it's burning dark and sooty and is right now totally stuffing the boiler or heat exchanger with soot. Make sure you have working CO detectors..

    Getting it to just run good enough to prevent a safety lock out is not the plan here and is never a fix. There is a HUGE window from where it is running properly to where it's running close to tripping the lock out. A proper repair followed by a combustion test is needed.


    jsda77jimna01
  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,986
    The question to answer to direct you , is if the burner is still firing when it locks out ?

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

    jsda77
  • BDR529
    BDR529 Member Posts: 307
    Get a Beckett chassis and adapt the air tube assembly to it. But get a tech to do it. Not a DIY thing.
    jsda77
  • jsda77
    jsda77 Member Posts: 19
    @Big Ed_4

    Thank you for your reply.
    No, the burner is stop when it locks out.
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,242
    jsda77 said:
    @Big Ed_4 Thank you for your reply. No, the burner is stop when it locks out.
    This is not repaired yet?
  • jsda77
    jsda77 Member Posts: 19
    I called the technician. He blew out the line and installed a new aquastat. However, I still have same symptom. Sometimes it is OK for several hours sometime less than that.
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,254
    jsda77 said:

    I called the technician. He blew out the line and installed a new aquastat. However, I still have same symptom. Sometimes it is OK for several hours sometime less than that.

    Call the company back and request a different tech.
    HVACNUTSuperTech
  • Jellis
    Jellis Member Posts: 228
    jsda77 said:

    I called the technician. He blew out the line and installed a new aquastat. However, I still have same symptom. Sometimes it is OK for several hours sometime less than that.

    The aquastat would not cause the primary control to go into lockout... The aquastat controls the temp in your boiler.... like your thermostat controls the temp in your home...
    the primary control enters lockout when it senses a loss in flame.

    If he blew out your oil line and found sludge he should have also changed your filter at the tank, strainer at the oil pump. and changed the nozzle, checked your fuel pressure and done a combustion test. all the while checking for signs of other problems.

    I would call that company back and request a different tech.

    jsda77
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,330
    @jsda77 , you need someone who knows what they're doing.

    First order of business is to replace that old R8184G with a modern control that not only has the shorter trial for ignition that is now required by Code, but also can store information as to why it locks out.

    Where are you located?
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    SuperTechZman
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,161
    edited December 2020
    They replaced the wrong control. Call the company back and ask for the original control back. It was not the cause of the problem you are describing. After a generous markup and labor to replace the control, you probably paid a lot for the wrong part. (We don't discuss prices on The Wall) You want a company that will guarantee their work. If the aquastat was really bad then you would have a different problem. The Primary control with the reset button is either doing its job or is defective. Your technician should know how to find out which one it is. It is certainly not the aquastat.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    MaxMercyjsda77
  • jsda77
    jsda77 Member Posts: 19
    @ Steamhead, My location is near Mahopac , NY
  • jsda77
    jsda77 Member Posts: 19
    @EdTheHeaterMan ,

    My old aquastat sometimes loud buzzing noises. I told it to a tech then he changed it. What is general symptoms of bad aquastat?

    One more question, a blunt electrode can be a cause of lockout?

    Thank you.
  • Jellis
    Jellis Member Posts: 228
    @jsda77
    that makes more sense that he replaced your aquastat if it was making buzzing sounds, however it would not cause your burner lockout.

    When the aquastat actually Fails power would not run to your burner and you would have 0 heat.

    a worn "blunt" electrode could certainly cause a lockout.
    jsda77
  • rick in Alaska
    rick in Alaska Member Posts: 1,463
    For goodness sakes. Have them check the cad cell reading when it is running. If it is over 1500 ohms or so, it will trip the reset. That is what it is designed to do. It is not a problem with the control.Personally I like to see them well under 1000 ohms, but the control is designed to trip at about 1500. If it is over 1000, then I will make sure the cad cell is clean and the burner is burning properly. If that is all good, then I will replace the cell and check again to see if the number has dropped to a usable level. Sometimes you just get a cell that has deteriorated and reads off.
    If the cell is reading good, then you need to start chasing other problems like weak ignitor, bad burner setup, etc.
    Start with the easy stuff first though.
    Rick
    Dave T_2