Painting outdoor black iron gas piping
The biggest issue I had right off the bat was trying to clean the dope out of the threads. Obviously, less dope will mean less of a mess but even some oil that seeps out will cause an issue.
What is the best way to go about this and the best primer / paint to use on new piping outside?
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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I used paint thinner to clean all the grease off then used cold galvanizing compound spray. Still has a bit of an issue in the flat top of a union where it holds water but I don't know that there is a solution to that other than something like a radome.0
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Back in the old days Niagara Mohawk (National Grid) used a heavy duty green tape to cover their gas piping. haven't seen it in years though0
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Black piping does have somewhat of a coating. Paint thinner, diesel, etc will strip it down to bare steel. I’ve used all sorts of paint over the years from Rustoleum to basic hardware latex.
Basic latex seems to hold up to UV best, we used it to protect solar insulation on roof tops.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
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That is why I only use galvanized pipe. I can't stand rusty looking pipe, and since I live in a salt water environment, it is a given.
Rick0 -
rick in Alaska said:That is why I only use galvanized pipe. I can't stand rusty looking pipe, and since I live in a salt water environment, it is a given. Rick
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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It partially is. My suppliers don't want to stock galvanized, so I have to deal with stainless fittings at times. I don't like using stainless fittings, and they do cost more, so I have been pushing them to bring in more galvanized. I am slowly getting the other guys in town to start using it, so maybe I can get it easier in the future.
Rick
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Try painting w Hercules black magic it’s a tar asphalt base . I haven’t seen much rust after painting w it for outdoor exposed black pipe . I ve used it for over 30 years and if it’s covered it’s not rusting as far as I ve seen . Peace and good luck clammy
R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
NJ Master HVAC Lic.
Mahwah, NJ
Specializing in steam and hydronic heating1 -
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Had a new generator installed, runs on propane, so here is what I got. Installed little over two weeks ago. Am I off base to think propane installer should come back and paint the rusted fittings?
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Yes it should be painted.
As far as galvanized pipe goes som locations do or do not allow it....it's a local thing. Massachusetts does not allow galvanized on gas for instance.
The dirt leg (drip leg) on the tee is another issue.
They are usually not allowed outdoors in a location subject to freezing.
Was this inspected?
If it was most inspectors would have picked up on these two things2 -
Commercial Code around here is painted, with various amounts of diligence expressed by the inspector. I know of one who will walk. every. foot. of. pipe. With a mirror. Others are happy to see it mostly bug bombed, along with anything within six inches of the pipe, including my equip!
I've had to do it in the past, it really isn't that hard. Just use a good quality exterior grade enamel, I'd just brush it on for the amount you've got to do. Don't get it on the flex line, or the valve, or the underground—just the steel pipe & fittings. If my OCD were acting up I'd open the cabinet & paint it up to the valve, but I've never seen that done IRL .
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@ratio
This is what we get around here, has happened many times. The code calls for outside pipe to be painted.
We run the pipe pressure test and paint and call for inspection. The inspector shows up " why did you paint the pipe, don't you know that stuff can stop a leak"
So the next time we don't paint until after inspection. The inspector shows up " Why didn't you paint the pipe I don't want to make two trips"2 -
Been there, done that, got the tee shirt! I spend quite a bit of my time, comparatively, chatting up inspectors to find out exactly what they want. It's saved any amount of time in the past to know exactly what they're looking for.0
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erm...ratio said:Been there, done that, got the tee shirt! I spend quite a bit of my time, comparatively, chatting up inspectors to find out exactly what they want. It's saved any amount of time in the past to know exactly what they're looking for.
This is from Ubran Dictionary and it was also my understanding of the term, at least from British shows.
You really do go the extra mile to get jobs to pass, eh?
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Heh, nah... Here in 'Murika that means something else.
I do get jobs passed off though, mainly from not acting like the inspector's a moron & never lying to them. And being somewhere above the curve WRT screwups in the first place.
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The great majority of inspectors I have met both electrical & plumbing are for the most part pretty decent.
There are always exceptions of the ones with a chip on their shoulder.
Things they don't like:
Lying
Telling them your ready for inspection and your not.
Asking them how to do the job because you can't be bothered to figure it out yourself or don't want to read the code book.
They don't mind a few specific question but if they feel you don't know what your doing you will have problems
The trick is to know the code better than they do
One thing I found is if you do a job out of town go see the inspector before you start, it goes a long way toward smoothing things over
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Pretty sure residential code requires it be painted outdoors as well, at least if your jurisdiction follows the model codes.ratio said:Commercial Code around here is painted, with various amounts of diligence expressed by the inspector.
I would get a can of Rustoleum or Duplicolor cold galvanizing compound spray paint.
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