Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

chimney leaks in rain, why?

Options
paulmars
paulmars Member Posts: 87
All the screws are sealed on the outside with silicone sealant. Also, a bead of silicone on top that support piece that twists around the pipe. Pipes are installed in proper direction, so its not leaking in the pipe assemble joints. Every pipe seam in the garage drips water when it rains.

I cant figure out where it comes in. Id rather not get up there with a hose. It only leaks when there is a lot of rain. Either very hard rain or just a long rain.

Ideas?

pics: https://www.diychatroom.com/f17/chimney-leaks-rain-why-685761/#post6135701

tks,
pa

Comments

  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
    Options
    Perhaps the flue gases are condensing.
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
    EdTheHeaterMan
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,439
    Options
    Ah... what is the top cover like?
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,864
    edited April 2020
    Options
    That's just single wall 26 gauge (at best) flue pipe.
    Its not intended for outdoor use.

    Change it.
    STEVEusaPABDR529SuperTechEdTheHeaterMan
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 2,468
    Options
    The storm could be blowing water into the cap. What appliance is this flue venting?
    EdTheHeaterMan
  • Bob Harper
    Bob Harper Member Posts: 1,040
    Options
    Looks like unlisted single wall vent connector being used as a vent. Not code compliant. Replace with listed B-vent. It will contain the condensate, prevent water entry at the joints and minimize condensation compared to single walled connector.
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,864
    edited April 2020
    Options
    It's not that rain water is getting in, its the fact that the outside temperature with the rain is condensing the flue gasses and making it rain inside the flue.

    If gas fired, it needs to be B Vent. Oil fired needs L rated triple wall SS.

    Put a tee with a brace where it goes from horizontal to vertical.
    And for God's sake, use a plumb. Looks like a damn cartoon.
    ZmanGroundUpSuperTechEdTheHeaterMan
  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,806
    edited April 2020
    Options
    Question ? Why didn't you go straight up through the roof ?

    Replace the vent pipe , it's a mess ...

    Venting , Needs rise and warmth .. For every foot of horizontal you need 4 feet extra of minimal rise .... A cold vent would prevent draft until it heats up .. Do you see what may be wrong ?



    There was an error rendering this rich post.

    BillyOZmanEdTheHeaterMan
  • BillyO
    BillyO Member Posts: 277
    Options
    Bottom line, it needs to be done correct is the consensus
    EdTheHeaterMan
  • psb75
    psb75 Member Posts: 845
    Options
    That stack is not "worthy."
  • BDR529
    BDR529 Member Posts: 290
    Options
    So Dura-vent was to expensive eh? You chose to do it a "different" way and now you got a problem. Reaized It will cost you even more to correct and you are looking for a magical answer to correct your sub-par flue pipe install.
  • PerryHolzman
    PerryHolzman Member Posts: 234
    Options
    I'm a homeowner. Something I learned long ago working in industrial and Power Plants is that: There is always time and money to do it right the first time, except for a designated temporary repair. This is obviously true because of the amount of time and money spent fixing something that was not done right the first time.

    My wife initially did not understand why I spent so much money on various household fixes. Now she knows as she has seen so many of her "acquaintances" have to redo so many things or that their nice looking (on the surface) projects had to be replaced long before mine did.

    I'd tear your existing stack down and start over. Do it right this time. Then no problems.

    I wish you the best,

    Perry
    EdTheHeaterMan
  • paulmars
    paulmars Member Posts: 87
    Options
    I set the draft to speck.

    it was thru the roof. I replaced roof with metal. Each roof hole is an opportunity to leak, so I moved pipe thru the gable.

    I found and fixed the leak.
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 4,883
    Options
    paulmars said:

    I set the draft to speck.

    it was thru the roof. I replaced roof with metal. Each roof hole is an opportunity to leak, so I moved pipe thru the gable.

    I found and fixed the leak.

    Did you change the pipe?
  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,806
    Options
    Did it leak before you changed the layout ?

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,784
    Options
    Assuming that's connected to a gas boiler, can you imagine the amount of condensate that's going to produce when it's cold out?

    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
    Hansraaji