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chimney leaks in rain, why?
paulmars
Member Posts: 87
in Oil Heating
All the screws are sealed on the outside with silicone sealant. Also, a bead of silicone on top that support piece that twists around the pipe. Pipes are installed in proper direction, so its not leaking in the pipe assemble joints. Every pipe seam in the garage drips water when it rains.
I cant figure out where it comes in. Id rather not get up there with a hose. It only leaks when there is a lot of rain. Either very hard rain or just a long rain.
Ideas?
pics: https://www.diychatroom.com/f17/chimney-leaks-rain-why-685761/#post6135701
tks,
pa
I cant figure out where it comes in. Id rather not get up there with a hose. It only leaks when there is a lot of rain. Either very hard rain or just a long rain.
Ideas?
pics: https://www.diychatroom.com/f17/chimney-leaks-rain-why-685761/#post6135701
tks,
pa
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Comments
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Ah... what is the top cover like?Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
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Looks like unlisted single wall vent connector being used as a vent. Not code compliant. Replace with listed B-vent. It will contain the condensate, prevent water entry at the joints and minimize condensation compared to single walled connector.
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It's not that rain water is getting in, its the fact that the outside temperature with the rain is condensing the flue gasses and making it rain inside the flue.
If gas fired, it needs to be B Vent. Oil fired needs L rated triple wall SS.
Put a tee with a brace where it goes from horizontal to vertical.
And for God's sake, use a plumb. Looks like a damn cartoon.4 -
Question ? Why didn't you go straight up through the roof ?
Replace the vent pipe , it's a mess ...
Venting , Needs rise and warmth .. For every foot of horizontal you need 4 feet extra of minimal rise .... A cold vent would prevent draft until it heats up .. Do you see what may be wrong ?
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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That stack is not "worthy."0
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So Dura-vent was to expensive eh? You chose to do it a "different" way and now you got a problem. Reaized It will cost you even more to correct and you are looking for a magical answer to correct your sub-par flue pipe install.0
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I'm a homeowner. Something I learned long ago working in industrial and Power Plants is that: There is always time and money to do it right the first time, except for a designated temporary repair. This is obviously true because of the amount of time and money spent fixing something that was not done right the first time.
My wife initially did not understand why I spent so much money on various household fixes. Now she knows as she has seen so many of her "acquaintances" have to redo so many things or that their nice looking (on the surface) projects had to be replaced long before mine did.
I'd tear your existing stack down and start over. Do it right this time. Then no problems.
I wish you the best,
Perry1 -
I set the draft to speck.
it was thru the roof. I replaced roof with metal. Each roof hole is an opportunity to leak, so I moved pipe thru the gable.
I found and fixed the leak.0 -
Did it leak before you changed the layout ?
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Assuming that's connected to a gas boiler, can you imagine the amount of condensate that's going to produce when it's cold out?
Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment1
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