Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.

If you've found help here, check back in to let us know how everything worked out.
It's a great way to thank those who helped you.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.

Pipe Hangers - Which way is best?

tlowc34tlowc34 Member Posts: 45
edited December 3 in Strictly Steam
Asbestos abatement was completed this fall on my 2 pipe steam heat system. Given today's Cyber Monday deal on insulation. I'm trying to decide which pipe hanger system to go with for the large steam mains (4" at the start, gradually working their way down to 1-1/4"):
1. Standard Fiberglass Insulation with wooden dowels and metal shields
2. Cal-Sil 360° Insulated Pipe Support w/Metal Shield
Cal-Sil seems like an easier, more resilient/reliable option but the site warns that the Cal-Sil can be damaged in transit.
Does anyone have experience with either?
Thanks,
Todd

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-EdEBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 6,103
    I would just use fiberglass. Cal-Sil would be more difficult to work with and is a mess to cut.

    As far as hangers go you can put hangers directly on the pipe (which is the way it's usually done for heating) or put hangers with insulation shields on the outside of the insulation with oversized hangers....and as those hangers are larger you may not have enough room
  • tlowc34tlowc34 Member Posts: 45
    There are existing hangers but they’re loose. I thought I needed to put the hanger on the outside of the insulation to allow the pipe to slide with expansion? If I go direct to the pipe, won’t it create a conduit for heat loss (up the hanger) and eventually open up the joint in the insulation due to movement? Maybe I’m overthinking this.
  • ratioratio Member Posts: 2,133
    I'm thinking the heat loss through a hanger directly on the pipe would be negligible.
  • EBEBRATT-EdEBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 6,103
    and weather you need to allow for expansion and contraction depends on the pipe length. In the average house it isn't an issue
  • Hap_HazzardHap_Hazzard Member Posts: 1,618
    If you put the hangers around the insulation, you're going to need bigger hangers for one thing. I'd also be concerned that the pipe would gradually wear down the insulation and it'd be hard to keep it level.
    Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA

    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
  • pecmsgpecmsg Member Posts: 963
    As @Hap_Hazzard said putting on the outside increases the size and cost but can be done!

  • tlowc34tlowc34 Member Posts: 45
    edited December 3
    I have the space, but if you don't think expansion contraction will be an issue, I might skip. Here's the basement floorplan (2 floors of heated space above, similar floorplans) with the plumbing schematic (from memory, might be a few small differences). Header starts at 3" and works down from there. I'm also replacing vents, I was thinking of 1 Gorton #2 on each condensate and main.
  • Intplm.Intplm. Member Posts: 980
    From what I can see in your drawing, the expansion and contraction should not be an issue. Most often they are not in a residential system

    As far as your hangers go. When you say they are"loose" does that mean that they are falling apart?
    What type of hangers are they?
    If they are clevis hangers and they are not damaged, they can be tightened and used again.
  • Intplm.Intplm. Member Posts: 980
    Clevis hanger
  • Hap_HazzardHap_Hazzard Member Posts: 1,618
    @pecmsg That's interesting. I've never seen a product made for that purpose. It looks like it should work, as it's designed to spread the load over a wider area, and any movement would tend to be isolated to the clevis bolt. I bet they're pricey though.
    Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA

    1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-24
  • tlowc34tlowc34 Member Posts: 45
    edited December 3
    They're an old school, split ring style. Similar to what is shown below. By loose I mean they aren't tight to the pipe in all locations (1/2 gap all the way around) or the pipe isn't actually resting on it. Not sure if this was because it was used during installation to support a flying end, until plumbing was completed and the pitch finalized. Does that help?

    That is the cal-sil version above I was thinking of.


  • pecmsgpecmsg Member Posts: 963

    @pecmsg That's interesting. I've never seen a product made for that purpose. It looks like it should work, as it's designed to spread the load over a wider area, and any movement would tend to be isolated to the clevis bolt. I bet they're pricey though.

    Used on Chilled Water and Steam in commercial
  • Intplm.Intplm. Member Posts: 980
    tlowc34 said:

    They're an old school, split ring style. Similar to what is shown below. By loose I mean they aren't tight to the pipe in all locations (1/2 gap all the way around) or the pipe isn't actually resting on it. Not sure if this was because it was used during installation to support a flying end, until plumbing was completed and the pitch finalized. Does that help?

    That is the cal-sil version above I was thinking of.


    If this hanger is sound. Supporting the pipe properly and is not broken then its fine. Otherwise I would replace them with what I have pictured in my earlier post.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Welcome

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!