Where's the capacitor?

ctregan

I have a beckett oil burner and I would like to change the capacitor on the oil blower motor. The label reads a16uf 240v capacitor... but I cant find it on tbe unit? Usually there is a domed shaped protector on the outside of the motor but its missing on mine. Whats going on here?


🤔

STEVEusaPA

Good luck finding one. I'd like to know how you determined the capacitor was bad if you couldn't check it (didn't know where it was to check it).
I can tell you since those motors first came out, I've never replaced a capacitor. Can't even remember replacing a psc burner motor in the last 8 years.

What problem are you having?

ctregan

The burner trips out every 2-3 days. It seems like it takes longer to ignight. I read a weak capacitor could slow down the motor start up and make it trip out. A capacitor is a $10.00 item... doesn't hurt to try it?

I have since read, Beckett made a split phase blower motor that uses resistors to start the motor with out capacitors. The other motors are PSC (permanant split capacitors) which have the capacitor dome visible on the outside of motor. The split phase (non capacitor) motor has lower tourque at start up. Maybe this is the problem.... Anyone one here familliar with the different types of blower motors? Most new motors I see for sale online have the capacitor dome attached.

Jamie Hall

There could be a lot of things which could cause a burner to trip out, some of which could also cause delayed ignition.

None of which have much to do with the blower motor...

Have you had anyone clean the boiler and check and adjust the burner using test instruments? That's where I'd start.

STEVEusaPA

No way is it the capacitor...save the $10 bucks and get a qualified tech over there to diagnose/fix the problem. If it were the capacitor, the motor wouldn't run. You have a different issue.

Your capacitor can be checked with a meter, so can the burner motor.
A split phase motor can be checked with a meter too-including the start switch.

Delayed ignition can be anything from an air adjustment, to a nozzle that needs to be replaced, dirty end cone, weak ignitor, loose wiring, etc.

What happens after the burner ignites after reset can offer you some additional troubleshooting ideas.

ctregan

Had three techs come in tbe span of 2 months last year. They did the regular clean out, change the nozzel, adjust the flame, etc. Still trips after a week or so.

I thought, if I change the capacitor and motor bearings, it would be close to a new motor. I found out not many people change the bearings on these, they just buy a new motor. Maybe after 15 years the bearings are worn and making the motor sluggish.

I am also doing this as future maintenance. Change parts now instead of calling an emergency service person at three in the morning.

jumper

Ah the good old days when motor rebuilders (recondition actually) were ubiquitous.Doesn't pay to recondition anymore.
Here's a question I just thought of. Why PSC versus capacitor start only?

STEVEusaPA

You had the wrong techs.
It’s not the motor.
Also changing the motor requires a full combustion test when completed.

rick in Alaska

You would have a better chance winning the lottery than fixing your problem with a new capacitor. Has any one of those techs checked the cad cell reading? If it takes longer to ignite, it could be bad electrode spacing, bad transformer, dirty nozzle, bad fuel solenoid, etc. But very highly unlikely is it to be the capacitor.
I would start with the easy stuff.
Rick

Ironman

ctregan said:

Had three techs come in tbe span of 2 months last year. They did the regular clean out, change the nozzel, adjust the flame, etc. Still trips after a week or so.

I thought, if I change the capacitor and motor bearings, it would be close to a new motor. I found out not many people change the bearings on these, they just buy a new motor. Maybe after 15 years the bearings are worn and making the motor sluggish.

I am also doing this as future maintenance. Change parts now instead of calling an emergency service person at three in the morning.

3 tech's come out and all do the same thing? Logic would then dictate that at least the last two didn't know what to do since they simply repeated what the first did. The first didn't fix the problem and the last two simply repeated it.

The definition of insanity is to keep doing the same thing and expect different results!

"They adjusted the flame". How did they do this? By sight? Was a digital combustion analyzer used? Did they test the pump with gauges? Are there oil leaks any where? Was the pump screen cleaned? Electrodes checked and gap set?

Is there a Beckett "Clean Cut"pump with a solenoid on the burner?

You can attempt to rebuild the motor if you want, but you're probably wasting your time based upon an assumption and not a diagnosis.

I would recommend that you use the contractor locator above to find a competent tech.

Steamhead

Ironman said:

I would recommend that you use the contractor locator above to find a competent tech.

This. @ctregan , where are you located?

EBEBRATT-Ed

@ctregan, on a list of burner ignition failures starting from highest to lowest probability the burner motor would be far down the list.

oil filter, oil strainer, nozzle, electrode settings, plugged oil line and ignition transformer would be the first things to rule out as well as combustion adjustments.

These would all come before motor issues

ctregan

Against everyone's advise here, I went ahead and got a new motor. I found a good deal for $58 and free shippingng. The old motor had been in there for 15 years so I figured it could be time for a change. The problem was always at start up. The motor sounded sick and you could smell oil in the house when it started. It made me think the fan was having problems? Anyway, I pulled the motor and fan. The fan was covered with dust. Spent a half hour with an old tooth brush and soap getting it clean. I'm sure that made a big difference. The new motor has a large capacitor dome on the side. I think these types of motors have better start up tourque then the resistor split phase type, (but I have no real knowledge, I just like big capacitors on single phase motors)

I put the clean fan on the new motor and fired up the furnace. It sounds quiet and smooth with no more oil smell. I hope this solves the problem. I'm having a tech come in and reset the combustion and do a cleaning. Thanks for the help!