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I have narrowed my search down to 4 boilers. Looking for opinions on which to choose.

Flounder
Flounder Member Posts: 16
I have a 1560 s.f. home in northern California, I will be replacing the forced air system with hydronic baseboards.
My heat loss calcs say I need 26000 btu. This will be a d.i.y. installation. I would like to hear opinions on these 4 boilers or others that I might consider. Some deciding factors would be , dependability, ease of maintenance, manufacturer reputation, parts availability in the future and design. Any input would be much appreciated. Here are the boilers I have found that come close to my low btu needs.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Weil-Mclain-381-357-828-CGA-25-38000-BTU-Output-Boiler-Spark-Ignition-LP

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Weil-Mclain-381-357-904-CGI-25-37000-BTU-Output-Cast-Iron-Boiler-Spark-Ignition-LP-Gas

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Lochinvar-CBL045M-9-32000-BTU-Output-Two-Stage-Spark-Ignition-Solution-Boiler-LP-Gas

https://www.ecomfort.com/Crown-Boiler-Co.-AWR038ELST2PSU/p24014.html#reviews

The Lochinvar I believe has outdoor reset control. Can any of these units be used with outside reset?
Thanks

Comments

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 5,288
    Why 80% eff, why not 90+
  • mikeg2015
    mikeg2015 Member Posts: 1,194
    For such a small load, small combi would be better, can make your domestic water too. 90% efficient.

    Actually an air to water heat pump given your mild weather might even make more sense. What’s your AC setup?

    Smallest 80% boilers are about 35k output.
  • mikeg2015
    mikeg2015 Member Posts: 1,194
    The CGI and CGA are the same but one is induced draft, the other atmospheric. So totally different flue installation? You sure you are up for a DIY install? It’s not just about connecting piping. You have to figure out radaiation design, flow rates, and in your area, don’t you have permitting and inspections?

    The Lochinvar solution boiler is copper fin tube. Better with fan coils or baseboard generally. A low cost option. I don’t think that last as long as a cast iron boiler.
  • Flounder
    Flounder Member Posts: 16
    Hi Mike, Thanks for pointing out the Lochinvar has copper fins, this would eliminate that choice. I am not interested in a mod/con unit as I don't believe that it will be cost effective in the long run considering higher up front cost, more maintenance, less dependability and shorter life span. Our coldest night might dip below 30f but most cold days here are in the 40s. We also have a wood stove for the colder days. I feel there is enough available info for me to design the system myself. Hydronic baseboards are almost non existent in my small remote town so plumbers here won't be up on it.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,540
    Your thinking about a cast iron vs. a mod/con is backwards. At 30-40*, a mod/con would always be condensing and at peak efficiency if the radiation is properly sized and the ODR setup correctly.

    I'm seeing more component failures with cast iron boilers than with mod/cons and the maitenance is about the same if you get a fire tube. The same for price: I can get an HTP UFT for the same, or less, than a similarly sized cast iron.

    The only thing that a cast iron may have the edge in would be longevity assuming proper maintenance and water quality on both.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,371
    @Flounder , I'd go with the W-M CGa or the Crown. Whatever you choose, you MUST have a pro test it for proper combustion using a digital combustion analyzer. This is the ONLY way to make sure it operates safely.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Flounder
    Flounder Member Posts: 16
    Ironman, Interesting that you mention HTP brand. The reason I am shying away from mod/con is my first hand experience with watching an HTP combi unit failing miserably. I just recently finished a large remodel for a client with radiant floors throughout , The HTP combi unit has been a nightmare. The plumber has been out 6or7 times, tech support has him replacing motherboards and all kinds of components. Nothing to do with installation. They also seem to get horrible reviews.

    Steamhead, Thank you , I will make sure to have the combustion analyzed when done
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,540
    Flounder said:

    Ironman, Interesting that you mention HTP brand. The reason I am shying away from mod/con is my first hand experience with watching an HTP combi unit failing miserably. I just recently finished a large remodel for a client with radiant floors throughout , The HTP combi unit has been a nightmare. The plumber has been out 6or7 times, tech support has him replacing motherboards and all kinds of components. Nothing to do with installation. They also seem to get horrible reviews.

    Steamhead, Thank you , I will make sure to have the combustion analyzed when done

    We've installed dozens of the UFTs and only had one small issue on one of them: the board wouldn't recognize a domestic call. Tech support was great and over-nighted a board at their expense.

    What you're describing with your plumber sounds like maybe that's his level of skill: plumbing, but not technical knowledge. Tech support can't do everything over the phone. Their diagnosis will only be as good as the info given them. If the person contacting them doesn't have the tools and the training to provide good info, then they're not gonna always get a correct diagnosis.

    I, and several other pro's here, have had great success with the UFT and found their tech support top notch.

    On line reviews of HVAC equipment are about worthless because when something goes wrong, the consumer always blames the appliance when 98% of the time the problem was the installer/technician.

    I'm just a pro with over 45 years experience that's trying to give some helpful advice. :)

    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
    Rich_49
  • Smitdy
    Smitdy Member Posts: 22
    @ Ironman , I too have been an HTP installer for a number of years, Though I've only installed 2 UFT's & had nothing but problems with them. First it was the boards, then the rubber "flap" in the burners that would break off and get sucked in, and now they lock out every now and again when they stack heat at the end of a cycle...and I have made adjustments to them to cure these ills, but I can't get back the time I spent not getting paid to trouble shoot them! ... I've gone back to the EFT as it is a much better boiler. Unfortunately HTP is eliminating the EFT line so I will be installing Triangle Tube Prestige units once I no longer can get the EFT's....BTW the UFT units I installed were sized correctly, inspected by the town and the HTP rep and balanced with a flue gas analyzer as I do with all my installs. Flounder, ALL combi boilers are junk IMO .. 3 way valves & flow switches just don't hold up over time and some of them immediately begin to short cycle on a call for domestic hot water causing wear&tear on the parts . Stick with a quality Fire tube condensing boiler and a stainless indirect. I have a customer with a system I put in 7 years ago that has never been serviced (although I have called and let her know it needs to be done) and is still running.
  • Flounder
    Flounder Member Posts: 16
    Thank you Smitdy and Ironman for the feedback.
  • @Flounder:
    It sounds as though you're north of me, but just in case you're in the Bay Area, mod-cons are the only thing allowed here.
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • Flounder
    Flounder Member Posts: 16
    Hey Alan, I am in Fort Bragg. No restrictions here. This county doesn't even have to smog their vehicles. I am all about greener technology but I dont want to sacrifice dependability. As a D.I.Y.
    guy I feel I could install, trouble shoot and maintain a standard boiler myself. Mod/cons seem to be much more complex and finicky.
    Considering the higher initial cost of a mod/con plus labor for install and regular maintenance, shorter lifespan, without trying to figure all the variables mathematically it just looks way more cost effective for me to install and maintain a standard boiler with 6 to 10% less efficiency. I have been a mechanic, a builder, have a good understanding of electrical/ electronics and have no problem plumbing a whole house (My Father was a plumber, I learned a lot.) Just never had to deal with heating.
    I would be very interested to hear your feedback and also what you would do in my situation. Thanks
  • I don't know the difference between the W-M CGA and CGI boilers, but W-M has been around for a long time and they make great boilers. Same with Crown. I have no experience with the Lochinvar Solution.
    Your thinking is good on wanting a trouble-free boiler; simplicity will give you peace of mind and more money in your wallet.
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • Flounder
    Flounder Member Posts: 16
    Thanks Alan for the professional reassurance, I very much appreciate you taking the time. Cheers.