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Buzzing Honeywell R8222K 1000

YingYing Member Posts: 58
Got home today and went to check on the boiler and notice a buzzing sound in the boiler room.

Pin it down to this thing in the picture below. Looks to be a relay after doing some research. Honeywell R8222K 1000. Touching it and putting it in the right spot will stop it for a while then it will come back.

Couldn't find much on this thing on the wall. Is this normal? Should I be concern? If yes, then how serious is the problem? Will the boiler stop runing?

Was trying to find a replacement online. But most places, amazon supply house homedepot, don't seem to have this exact model. There are alot of other R8222 with a different ending letter and different 4 numbers after it.
What is an acceptable replacemnt?

Thanks in advance, just want to say this is hell of a learning experience for me. Guess boiler is at the age when a lot of parts are due for a replacement.


  • mikeg2015mikeg2015 Member Posts: 1,178
    It’s a contractor. Coil is probably failing ... but could last s long time. I’m not sure the difference without cross referencing s little closer.

    Does this boiler have a draft inducer? Any contractor should work if the same type, coil voltage, and contact rating.
  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Member Posts: 12,725
    It cold be failing, yes -- but it could also be a connection in the circuit to the coil failing. You should check all the connections for being clean and tight first.
    Br. Jamie, osb

    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.

    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
  • hvacfreak2hvacfreak2 Member Posts: 479
    Years ago I worked in a lot of school new construction projects. We got motor starters exclusively from one supplier. After a week of service these things would chatter so loud that you could not hold a conversation within 50 feet of one. The supplier blamed construction dust on the yoke and armature and said it would show up as a dark oil type substance. We would have to tear them apart and clean this from the surfaces and they would be silent when we got them back up. I still say that it was something used during manufacturing but in any case he was right about the fix. There are other possible causes than dust as previously mentioned. Some good info in this link as well.

    Mechanical Enthusiast

    Burnham MST 396 , 60 oz gauge , Tigerloop , Firomatic Check Valve , Mcdonnell Miller 67 lwco , Danfoss RA2k TRV's

    Easyio FG20 Controller

  • YingYing Member Posts: 58
    edited January 2019
    The wires and plastic are on petty tight, don't think it is lose. Took a can of compress air and blew it for a good minute to get the dust out. Not such a good idea it seems after reading the link about. Stopped buzzing for half and hour then buzzing started again. It appears to buzz when the thermostat will be calling for heat.

    Can I discount the black plastic part from the brown part to clean the inside? Or where should I be able to take it apart to clean? It does not come off when I pull on it.

    And if I do decide on replacing it, back to my original question about not being able to locate the exact model, which of the ones on the webpage link below from supply house is a suitable substitute? r8222?searchText=honeywell+r8222
  • FredFred Member Posts: 8,418
    Here is the part and source for that:
  • FredFred Member Posts: 8,418
    edited January 2019
  • YingYing Member Posts: 58
    Thanks @Fred so I will keep the black part. Screw this new one into the boiler panel and connect the black part in? Don't have to reppace the black part too right?

    If not too much trouble, what is the proper way to disconnect the black and brown part. I try pulling and it didn't come apart and I don't see anything that I can press or click to disconnect them
  • vibert_cvibert_c Member Posts: 68
    @Ying It appears to buzz when the thermostat will be calling for heat.
    When the control voltage drops due to additional loading on the control transformer, the magnetic flux is not sufficient to hold the coil. Same thing happens when attempting to start an auto with a 1/4 charged battery. The solenoid chatters. Get a multimeter and measure the voltage drop when it calls for heat!

  • FredFred Member Posts: 8,418
    edited January 2019
    @Ying I think the black part is fixed to the relay and the individual wires have push connectors on them. Try to pull one out and see if it slides off of the prong.
  • regtorregtor Member Posts: 7
    @Ying sorry to revive this old thread but did you ever find a replacement for this relay (R8222K 1000)? I'm looking to replace the one on my Burnham natgas steam boiler. I see some new old stock on eBay but was wondering if the newer models with part numbers with different digits work. Thanks
  • HVACNUTHVACNUT Member Posts: 3,282
    Check the existing relay stamp for amp, coil, and switching info.

    Typical replacement for that relay is the R8222D1014.

    DPDT, 12 FLA, 24v coil.
  • regtorregtor Member Posts: 7
    @HVACNUT thanks! I am certain the existing relay is 24V with a coil, but other specs are not so clear. The label makes no reference to FLA, only says 3 amps res. at 277VAC. The universal R8222D1014 relay has several more contacts and prongs so I'm not sure it will physically work with the black plastic "harness" connector on my Burnham natgas steam boiler. Here are a couple of pics of the existing relay and its label - note only four connectors - any input welcome:

  • HVACNUTHVACNUT Member Posts: 3,282
    That's fine. The R8222D1014 has a 12 amp rating so no problem there.

    It will still plug right in to your boilers receptacle and do the same thing.

    The icing is the new relay offers DPDT (double pole, double throw) switching so you can finally install that circulator you always wanted.😁
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