Hi all. Thank you for this great resource. I just joined yesterday and have already learned so much.
Have a zone control board that keeps blowing a fuse every few days that provides heat to my kids' bedrooms. The weather is getting cold and we will be going away and i'm afraid of pipes bursting when I'm not around to change fuses (yes, I know this isn't addressing the root cause, only the symptom and probably made the situation worse).
The wiring for this particular fuse runs to a B&G series 100 circulator pump, on a gas fired furnace from 1998. We have forced hot air.
This same fuse issue was happening intermittently on my old Taco SR506 6 zone switching relay. Thinking it was an issue with the board last year, I personally replaced it with a newer version of the same board. However, the same thing is happening again every week or so during this heating season. I wired everything up exactly as it was before. The system uses a 6 amp slow-blo fuse. Each time I replace the fuse, I have heat again for another week.
At the start of this heating season, the fuse was blowing immediately and after going through a half dozen fuses, I couldn't figure it out and the kids slept in our bedroom. The person who performed the tune-up on our heating system 2 weeks later told me that the issue was related to a broken coupler and quoted me $ for a replacement! I found the part at Home Depot for $18 and replaced it in 15 mins!
However, the issue with the blowing fuses continues. In my mind, there is either some short in the system, or some surplus load when the pump would start up. Once it gets going, it's fine. I have also kept it oiled a few drops a year.
I've already replaced the zone board, and the coupler. When I had the pump off, I checked the motor mounts and all looked fine. I'm wondering now if the issue is with the bearing assembly.
In another thread, IronMan suggested that I should have bought a Taco 007/008 or Grundfos ups15-58has for my application, but I already have a new bg 100 pump I bought off eBay on hand. Oh well...
I'm thinking that this weekend, I should try and replace the pump. I assume that I can leave and reuse the pump body plumbed, since I have ball valves above and below the pump. Another thought I had was simply replacing just the motor (since this way, I wouldn't have to break any plumbing seals), but I read somewhere that water due to a leaking bearing assembly could a surge in amp at pump start-up. When I was replacing the broken coupler a few weeks back, I had accidentally loosened one of the nuts holding the bearing bracket to the pump body and some water leaked out from behind the nut, which makes me further suspect that there is some kind of leak. -- THIS IS unless there is supposed to be water coming out of the pump body as it's plumbed inline...
To summarize, my questions are as follows:
1. do you think a bad bearing assembly could be what is blowing the fuse on my control board or could it be something simpler? I do have a multi meter and a clamp meter but would need to know what to do with them.
2. if I replace the bearing assembly, must I bleed the system thereafter despite having shut off valves above and below the pump in question?
3. is there supposed be water coming out of the nut holding together the bg 100 pump body and the actual pump/motor? (https://media.statesupply.com/filemanager/s/s/ssc-cat_bg-series-100.pdf
Thank you all!